6-pt harness mounting points

[M-tinker]

I finally got around to replace my 4-pt harness with a 6-pt one. Before I drill the holes for the eye bolts, I want to check with you folks if I have the mounting points right. See pic below. The locations of of the brass rings are where I intend to drill. The left-most and right-most positions are for the lap belts (left one is already threaded from the factory). The 2 middle ones are for the sub belts. They're about 6 inches behind the middle opening of the race seat, 4 inches apart. The shoulder belts will be mounted on the bolt-in cage.

Does it look right to you guys?

TIA,

-Fred

[Gregg]

Looks pretty good.

BUT, for all anchoring points, you really want to verify with the harness mfr. Schroth, for example, provides a very complete set of do's and dont's for their products.

Also, check under where you think you're going to drill the sub belts. There's a 'cross beam' and some hard lines to negotiate.

And while you're there, I'd get rid of that tar (if that wasn't already your plan). You really want a solid anchoring surface w/o gummy sound deadening.

Hope this helps,

Gregg

[Nikos]

What Gregg said. Including the part about removing the sound deadening material.

Only thing I can't really tell from pic is the inboard mounting point, whether it is too high or not on the center tunnel (could just be an optical illusion).

On re-using the factory threaded hole, I think I had a brake or gas line near there and the longer eye-bolt made contact with one of them so just watch that.


Nick

[M-tinker]

Looks pretty good.

BUT, for all anchoring points, you really want to verify with the harness mfr. Schroth, for example, provides a very complete set of do's and dont's for their products.

Also, check under where you think you're going to drill the sub belts. There's a 'cross beam' and some hard lines to negotiate.

And while you're there, I'd get rid of that tar (if that wasn't already your plan). You really want a solid anchoring surface w/o gummy sound deadening.

Hope this helps,

Gregg

Mine is OMP. There isn't much instruction in the manual. But when I read the Schroth manual online, wow the instructions are very specific. I'm gonna follow them as much as I can.

Yes, I will remove the tar before installing the eye bolt.

Thanks for the pointer.

-Fred

[M-tinker]

What Gregg said. Including the part about removing the sound deadening material.

Only thing I can't really tell from pic is the inboard mounting point, whether it is too high or not on the center tunnel (could just be an optical illusion).

On re-using the factory threaded hole, I think I had a brake or gas line near there and the longer eye-bolt made contact with one of them so just watch that.


Nick

The rear inboard eye bolt should be mounted below the drive shaft. See pic below. I do need to cut a hole on the heat shield above the cat to clear the eye bolt. And on the outboard side, the bolt does run into the brake lines. I have taken care of that.

Thanks,

-Fred

[Mick]

You have the right spot for the subs. just be sure you're using backing plates.
The outboard side can use the stock mounting point. I was able to use the stock mounting point on the inboard side as well.

I dont agree about the tar. I would leave it.

[M-tinker]

Yes, I have backing plates for all locations except the outboard side, where the factory mount point is used. For the inboard side, I have removed enough tar to clear the eye bolt and fat washer. The tar was thick and brittle. I didn't want it to compromise the integrity of the mount.

Now all the eye bolts have been installed. I'll get the car ready for a track day next week.

Thanks for everyone's help.

-Fred