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  • #46
    Looking at the car and realoem very briefly it looks like this vent line actually goes up to the fill tube. I see two but one is a 6mm hose (#3) and one is a 14mm hose (#5) so I am thinking it is the bigger one. Going to hope some stock e30s have one waiting for me in the junkyard this weekend. Put another few miles on it tonight and it runs flawlessly! Just a small list of little things to all knock out this weekend and she will be good for a cross town trial drive!
    sigpic
    '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
    '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
    '03 Carbon M3
    '10 Tri-color S1000

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    • #47
      Yes, sorry my bad.. I was thinking too fast :huh:

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      • #48
        Car now has 30 miles on it but has a couple weird quirks to fix before any more driving. Now it won't rev past about 5000rpm and when fully warm, the oil pressure light comes on at idle. Ordered an oil pressure gauge setup to install before any more driving and going to check fuel pressure tonight to see if something got clogged up letting it not rev all the way out. It really pulled hard the first couple of days and just got slow since all of this happened. Fingers crossed again!
        sigpic
        '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
        '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
        '03 Carbon M3
        '10 Tri-color S1000

        Comment


        • #49
          Still waiting on my oil pressure gauge before I run the car any more but does anyone think that the valves could have seated in those 30 miles, making the cam gaps go down and not letting the cylinders seal perfect and thus not let it rev high enough? I set them all to a loose .35 so it would settle in nicely but it just doesn't feel like it had the power it did on Day 1, just normal driving. I obviously haven't revved it all the way out yet being that it is all brand new. I checked and fuel pressure tests normal.
          sigpic
          '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
          '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
          '03 Carbon M3
          '10 Tri-color S1000

          Comment


          • #50
            Okay so I got a gauge hooked up and it uses a VDO sender for the light and the gauge. Light is now on steady at idle when car is warm and you have to keep it over 2k rpm to keep the light off. Also, on the gauge, full cold motor has 25lbs of pressure at idle and will not build higher when revved. Crank was sized and bearings were bought accordingly so I 99% want to rule that out. On the oil pump however, I think there may be a hairline crack which in my mind would cause this and not let the motor build pressure. When slightly warm and there is about 10lbs at idle, if you rev it, it may go up to 20-25 but that's it. Motor is draining oil now, no metal flakes in oil, and I am going to pull off and inspect the pump. Ideas?
            sigpic
            '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
            '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
            '03 Carbon M3
            '10 Tri-color S1000

            Comment


            • #51
              Did you reuse the oil pump? Probably should have used a new one for peace of mind. Pull the pans and make sure the oil pump pick up isn't loose. It's just crimped on so this is potentially your hairline crack. A "friend" I know had this happen to him and caused a spun bearing on a low miles rebuilt engine. Those pressure numbers are dangerously low even with low viscosity oil. Also remote mount the VDO pressure sender away from vibrations and make sure it's properly grounded and within 45 degrees of vertical (just incase) for the most accurate readings.

              On another note...I just put my head on yesterday and couldn't help but notice that you installed the head before putting the timing cover on so I assume you didn't use any sealant on headgasket around the timing cover area? I was told to use sealant on both sides of the gasket in the timing cover area particularly where the cover meets the block or it'll leak.
              Last edited by Reelizmpro; 04-30-2011, 10:35 AM.

              88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/M TECH
              89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/SCHWARZ
              85 323I S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZ
              91 M TECHNIC TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH


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              • #52
                I bought a "like new" pump that came off a racecar motor that supposedly cracked the block due to a no antifreeze/ all water setup and a cold winter. Looked very clean but I swear it had a tiny crack or a very big casting mark.

                As for the install of the head and front covers, I think I smeared some sealant on both sides of the headgasket up front there and then slid the front cover on and tightened everything down. Not a drip of a leak yet, let's hope it stays that way.

                Will update ASAP when I get this oil pump off and see what the consensus is and throw a brand new one on too.
                sigpic
                '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
                '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
                '03 Carbon M3
                '10 Tri-color S1000

                Comment


                • #53
                  So much for positive thinking. Got the bottom pan off and it looks like I am starting a copper mine! Out comes the motor and back to the machine shop that measured it all up and built something wrong. So much for being a "reputable" engine machine shop. And the depression sets in, with only 30 miles on the car...
                  sigpic
                  '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
                  '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
                  '03 Carbon M3
                  '10 Tri-color S1000

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    I feel for you. A few years back I did a low mile engine swap on an Audi mine. The 30K engine lost a rod bearing in 2K miles! Had it rebuilt and it ,lost another rod bearing in a few K miles and the lower ends on this particular engine are know to be bullet proof. First sign was dropping oil pressure and higher oil temps, luckily I did not throw a rod. How will you be able to determine with whom the fault lies as you did so much of the work yourself? I was lucky, I was going to piece meal the work out as you did and do somoe of it myself, but did not really have the space so I paid up and the shop did it all and pretty much ate the whole bill for the rebuild.

                    81 Ur Quattro
                    87 911 M491 Cab
                    89 M3
                    89 944 T

                    What can I say,
                    I love wide fenders!

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                    • #55
                      Oh man, this is scary. So it wasn't the pump ? I thought you checked all of the clearances and everything checked out. Keep us updated.

                      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/M TECH
                      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/SCHWARZ
                      85 323I S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZ
                      91 M TECHNIC TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH


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                      • #56
                        Motor is out and both pans are now off. Yes, everything was measured and checked and all bearings ordered accordingly. That's why I was sure it wasn't a bearing and only the pump. I have built at least 20 m10s and m20s and never had an issue. All motors are still out there running strong. Figures the one time I go that extra mile and have a "professional" check sizes, the motor blows. Cleaned my garage all up and just going to let this simmer for a couple days until I can pull some main and rod caps off and see which let loose. Hoping for no damage but not too optimistic at this time. We'll see where it goes, I REALLY need to get this car running and driving!
                        sigpic
                        '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
                        '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
                        '03 Carbon M3
                        '10 Tri-color S1000

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          So you didn't take the measurements yourself you had the machine shop do it?

                          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/M TECH
                          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/SCHWARZ
                          85 323I S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZ
                          91 M TECHNIC TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH


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                          • #58
                            Eek! Sorry to hear this! It freaks me the eff out!
                            1990 M3/1998 M3 Sedan

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                            • #59
                              Yes, they had the block, crank, rods, everything... The shop is known to build many killer race motors and for his quality of work but I am starting to doubt that. He wouldn't do my machine work without having it all on hand and then returned it all clean and individually packaged with what bearings to buy to put it together and get it done. I will see what is bad once I get it apart and go from there I guess at this point. Really starting to suck to rely on others that "know what they are doing".
                              sigpic
                              '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
                              '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
                              '03 Carbon M3
                              '10 Tri-color S1000

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                So here are some pictures... talked to another engine shop and basically the whole thing needs to come apart and I will have to call the first shop once I find the actual issue and see if he is willing to help in any way. Got the pan off and the oil pump looked nice and clean...

                                Then you look in the pan and see this sludge! No clue what it could be since it's brand new oil and everything new.

                                Thin it out with some brake cleaner and see the true mess... :(

                                Back to a rolling hunk of junk.
                                sigpic
                                '72 Inka M20-Turbo 2002
                                '88 Alpine M3 - sadly SOLD
                                '03 Carbon M3
                                '10 Tri-color S1000

                                Comment

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