Originally posted by Todd black 88
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Losing power and bogging down.
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Bumping old thread due to similar problem. Very intermittent.
Allright folks, I need a little help here. Sorry for the length of this but more info the better usually.
I am having a little trouble with the M3 here that I can't seem to figure out.
Last saturday, i picked the car up from the shop after a valve adjustment, and everything seemed fine. Drove about 20minutes, and the car responded fine, then it stalled in the tim Hortons drive through. Restarted right away, but sounded rough for about 5-10 seconds and then was fine again. drove out of the drive through and about a block down the road, when i shifted into second, it bogged right down, and sputtered. I shifted back to neutral and tried to keep it from stalling and I managed to and it cleared up. Drove the rest of the way home(5 min) no problem. Sunday, no problems. Drove the car from my house on the northshore to Mission raceway,70 miles or so, tracked the car on and off for 8 hours, no problems. Drove home and when i got to stop/go traffic about 5 miles from home, it bogged down again and tried to stall again. i was able to shift to neutral and blip the throttle a few times to save it, and then drove the rest of the way home with no problems.
Any ideas where to start?
New parts installed within the last 1000k
cap/rotor/wires/coil
coolant sensor
both fuel pumps/fuel filter/air filter
intake boot
Also my car doesn't run AFM runs Miller conversion but its not new.
TIA
ToddLast edited by Todd black 88; 09-18-2008, 01:30 PM.
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I think the engine tugs quite a bit on that cable, especially if the engine mounts are getting old.
I added a second longer cable ground to that side of the engine JIC.
In an old car, you can never go wrong by adding ground cables.
m
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Originally posted by mazenz
finally narrowed it down to faulty ground. thanks for all your help guys! never woulda thought of that on my own.
m
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finally narrowed it down to faulty ground. thanks for all your help guys! never woulda thought of that on my own.
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mazenz, try to disconnect your O2 sensor and run the car in the way you experienced the problem.
if the car runs good , maybe its time to change it, this tends to give wrong signal to the comp. brain and messes up the timing.
mine is still disconnected and never experienced anyproblem since then. give it a try, you have nothing to loose..
arvzs
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i cannot recreate the conditions, but every time its happened, it was under the same conditions, which is probably exactly what you are trying to say anyways :p
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Chris - EVOIIIM3 is right - your dealer's an idiot. I don't have the PN, but this was just done yesterday, so it's available. I think Maximillian had it for a little over $400.
mazenz - If your car is cutting out under the same condidtions every time, I'd think that would point to dead spots in the AFM. Mine wasn't that consistent - I couldn't recreate the problem when I wanted. But I had been noticing drivability problems under certain conditions, and those seem to have cleared up with the new AFM. And yeah - mine would be just fine one time, then an hour (or a week) later it would happen again. That's why I'm still crossing my fingers a little bit until I'm sure I'm fixed.
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Originally posted by Chris W
Hey mssVT98,
how long ago did you replace the AFM, and do you have the part number you used?
When I tried to order an new AFM a few months ago, the dealership told me the old part number was superceded by a new part number. When I ordered the new part, what I got was a smaller AFM that didn't fit the existing air plenum hose or air box. In fact, it was labelled as an AFM for a 318 and it looked exactly like the AFM for a 318 with an M40 engine.
The dealership ordered the part twice, and both times they got the same AFM labelled for a 318.
I'm just wondering if that's what happened to you, or whether things have been fixed now.
The correct part is still in the system. Get it from a reliable OE parts place, and tell the dealer to get a clue.
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Originally posted by wookie1976
I believe that AFM's of our types tend to wear out most in common engine loading positions. This can lead to a dead spot, sending the ECU an incorrect signal.
the interesting thing is, after i made this post, the problem hasnt come back. no stalling, no hesitating, no shutting down, nothing. f***ed up.
the guibo/driveshaft issue i still need to look at, although im suspecting the rear suspension as well.
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Hey mssVT98,
how long ago did you replace the AFM, and do you have the part number you used?
When I tried to order an new AFM a few months ago, the dealership told me the old part number was superceded by a new part number. When I ordered the new part, what I got was a smaller AFM that didn't fit the existing air plenum hose or air box. In fact, it was labelled as an AFM for a 318 and it looked exactly like the AFM for a 318 with an M40 engine.
The dealership ordered the part twice, and both times they got the same AFM labelled for a 318.
I'm just wondering if that's what happened to you, or whether things have been fixed now.
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