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  • Thinner oil for winter storage

    Hi all,

    I've been reading a lot about winter storage stuff because this will be my first winter with the car and I was thinking obout something that I'd like to get some input on. So basically the consensus is that it's a good idea to store the car with fresh oil so that the acids from the old oil do not sit in the car for 3 months. But seems like people also then put fresh oil after the winter storage. So basically the car is fillled with oil that is not really driven with but stored. I was thinking what if I put a much thinner oil for winters storage so that in spring the car starts much better. I am not going to drive the car on that oil so engine damage is not an issues the initial pumpability of the thinner oil will help me lubring all the parts much quicker on that initial start..

    What do you guys think about this?

    Thanks



    - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

    zhpregistry.net

  • #2
    If the car is stored and not started until spring, and is stored where there are no kerosene heaters, you won't need to change in the spring.
    If you won't drive the car until spring then the oil viscosity is not that important.
    m

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    • #3
      Well when you start it after such a long storage it's a good idea to pull the plugs and the fuel relay and crank. This is to get the oil bumping without stress on the rod bearings from compression.
      "It is needless to say that self-propelling vehicles, like other machines, will never do as much for one who does not understand them as for one who does."

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      • #4
        Re: Thinner oil for winter storage

        Originally posted by noro
        I was thinking what if I put a much thinner oil for winters storage so that in spring the car starts much better.I am not going to drive the car on that oil so engine damage is not an issues the initial pumpability of the thinner oil will help me lubring all the parts much quicker on that initial start.
        A good synthetic would be a better idea in a standard 15W-50 weight, or a Mobil 1 or Amsoil 10w-40.
        "E30 M3 . . . it's the perfect toy for an upscale closet wild man." Car and Driver, 1988 M3 Road Test

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        • #5
          Originally posted by AlpineRunner
          Well when you start it after such a long storage it's a good idea to pull the plugs and the fuel relay and crank. This is to get the oil bumping without stress on the rod bearings from compression.
          Let me see if I got this.. So you are saying that I should just let the engine rotate without starting it for a few turns just to libricate it and then fire it up?

          Thats sounds like a great suggestion

          Thanks!



          - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

          zhpregistry.net

          Comment


          • #6
            Noro,

            Prior to storage, I change the oil, including the oil cooler oil. Additionally, its probably necessary to remove the valve cover and suck out as much of that old oil as possible. There is a lot of oil up in the cam box. If you believe in 'oil pitting' this is probably when it happens. Pour some new oil in the cam box (to dilute the old stuff you couldn't get out) and on the cams (don't over do it). Lastly, crank the engine w/o plugs and fuel. This will circulate the new oil.

            In the Spring, crank the engine w/o plugs or fuel again, then start it up. No need to change oil again (assuming your engine is fairly clean to start with).
            HTH
            -Dietrich

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            • #7
              Thanks people... one more question

              When you say no plugs. .. can I just disconnect the plug wire from the coil?
              and also what's the most non-intrussive way to cut the fuel supply to the engine?

              Thanks



              - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

              zhpregistry.net

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Dietrich
                Prior to storage, I change the oil, including the oil cooler oil. Additionally, its probably necessary to remove the valve cover and suck out as much of that old oil as possible. There is a lot of oil up in the cam box. If you believe in 'oil pitting' this is probably when it happens. Pour some new oil in the cam box (to dilute the old stuff you couldn't get out) and on the cams (don't over do it).
                Dietrich, really, really good advice I always wondered if with fresh oil in there, if you started it, allowed it to warm up and circulate, if the oil from the cam area wouldn't get diluted and then the acids neutralized by the fresh oil's additives. The oil cooler is another story. So your method would be the most robust way to ensure minimal acid and moisture exposure/damage.

                Do you or anyone else know whether or not cranking with the OBC security setting set accomplishes the same cold crank lubrication? It sure is more convienent than popping the plugs. I tried it a few times but didn't really notice my oil pressure light going out-it still came on for about the same amount of time as a regular start.
                "E30 M3 . . . it's the perfect toy for an upscale closet wild man." Car and Driver, 1988 M3 Road Test

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                • #9
                  Do you or anyone else know whether or not cranking with the OBC security setting set accomplishes the same cold crank lubrication? It sure is more convienent than popping the plugs. I tried it a few times but didn't really notice my oil pressure light going out-it still came on for about the same amount of time as a regular start. [/QUOTE]

                  This is a very good thought. I would assume that the computer shutts of the fuel pump and the coil to prevent the start but not sure about that. This sure does beat taking the stuff apart to crank it.



                  - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

                  zhpregistry.net

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It's necessary to remove the sparkplugs from the head b/c it allows the engine to rotate w/o any compression. No compression means that the bearings, especially the rod bearings, aren't as sensitive to low lubrication stress. Additionally, the engine (and thus oil pump), will spin much faster, (~2k rpm) building oil pressure much faster. Using the OBC will achieve the same thing as pulling the fuel pump relay. It shuts off the fuel pump, but the coil is still charged. I've read that its necessary to keep the coil lead on, so that the charge has someplace to go (ground) and doesn't 'short-circuit' and zap the DME. As such, I put the plugs back in the plug leads and lay them on top of the valve cover (plugs must touch the VC). This grounds the plugs (and the plugs will spark - be carefull!).

                    Having said that, the first few times I did this whole process I was just pulling the coil lead wire and I didn't nuke any electronics. Don't know if I just got lucky.

                    But, in short, IMHO if you aren't pulling the plugs, there isn't much sense in cranking the engine to build pressure. You might as well just start it.

                    Beyond all this, building oil pressure without any cranking would be best. This is where an Accusump would be handy, presuming they are capable of building enough oil pressure. Pulling the plugs is kind of a hassle.

                    -Dietrich

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                    • #11
                      like Dietrich says, ALWAYS pull the plugs. There is no point in trying to crank
                      the engine over to build oil pressure if you leave the plugs in. It is also pretty
                      easy to just pull the relay instead of messing with the OBC.

                      John

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