Topside oil changers?

[Chris F.]

So do these things actually work? Since I don't have a driveway and the garage is pretty tight, it sure would be nice to not have to crawl around on the ground every 3k miles.

Do these things actually suck up everything? Is it better/worse than draining through the plug? If I could use a topside changer + figure out a way to not dump the contents of the filter all over the engine bay / garage floor I'd be pretty happy.

So what is everyone's experience with these things? Anybody selling a "good" one?

Thanks,

Chris

[M3 Ryan]

I bought one to remove the oil from a spare motor I had lying on the ground...
it took about 100 pumps and HOURS to get abut an ounce of oil out... they DO NOT work... they say use it on a cold motor, but I think the oikl has to be a bit warmer as it doesn't get any suction and the oil is too thick...

[Magnus]

Also, you could not possibly get the sediments out using a pump. Once you get the oil out you would not be able to vacuum the minuscule fragments. Path of least resistance and all that....

[Chris F.]

I figured it was too good to be true...

[EVOIIIM3]

Ok, first off you NEVER change the oil cold!
You want all the crap to be suspended in the oil not inside the engine.

There are cheap TSC (top side changer) and good ones. I have used the $30 special and it SUCKED! I then got the Griot's Garage one and it ROCKS! I have used it in all my cars and SUV, I even removed the drain plug after just to see, nope no oil left! It takes about 10 pumps, and 15min.

On my M3 I remove the drain plug uasally after anyway, it is the Magnetic one, so I clean it off. Still not oil! It is nice to not have to jack up the car for a oil change! Now if only you could change the filter with no mess!!

Also as a side note, the Griot's one, has a bigger hose, bigger pump and is much better made then the steel little ones.

ALWAYS CHANGE WARM OIL!

[M3 Ryan]

I got the one from BMP, the TOPSIDER or whatever... it sucks...

I may try another one if they work better, and after hearing what you said Mike, I may look for a better one...

One way to chage the filter without too much mess:

Take 2 plastic grocery bags, one inside the other, and put them over the filter, remove the filter, and let it fall in the bags, along with all the oil that comes out... then take it all out. I have gotten so good at this, that I don't even get any oil on the lines below, let alone the ground!! give it a shot sometime...

[EVOIIIM3]

Originally posted by M3 Ryan
I got the one from BMP, the TOPSIDER or whatever... it sucks...

I may try another one if they work better, and after hearing what you said Mike, I may look for a better one...

One way to chage the filter without too much mess:

Take 2 plastic grocery bags, one inside the other, and put them over the filter, remove the filter, and let it fall in the bags, along with all the oil that comes out... then take it all out. I have gotten so good at this, that I don't even get any oil on the lines below, let alone the ground!! give it a shot sometime...

The BMP one is CRAP! It's what gave all the TSC a bad name, Napa also sells it.

Usally I get a big freezer bag and put it aroudn the filter and unscrew, the hard part is getting the dam filter threw the oil cooler lines! That is where my mess usally is! I CAN'T STAND OIL ON MY ENGINE!

[H a n]

speaking of changing the filter, I've been thinking of going to a remote filter.
something like a canton-mecca setup. Has anyone else done this? Cost? PITA?

[Chris F.]

Originally posted by EVOIIIM3
ALWAYS CHANGE WARM OIL!

Question about that...I haven't started the car since the end of Novemeber. I did "winterize" it as much as possible before hand. When I do get ready to start driving it again, should I drain the oil before starting it for the first time?

It seems like now that all the oil has fully drained out of the engine that I should get it out and some fresh stuff down over the internals again before I go to start it. I figured I would pull the plug and let it drain for a week or so, then refill, start it up and let it idle for awhile to get everything coated again before I drove it.

Any comments on this?

[EVOIIIM3]

Originally posted by Chris F.
Question about that...I haven't started the car since the end of Novemeber. I did "winterize" it as much as possible before hand. When I do get ready to start driving it again, should I drain the oil before starting it for the first time?

It seems like now that all the oil has fully drained out of the engine that I should get it out and some fresh stuff down over the internals again before I go to start it. I figured I would pull the plug and let it drain for a week or so, then refill, start it up and let it idle for awhile to get everything coated again before I drove it.

Any comments on this?

Chances are you have some condensation in there. stuff sitting on parts up out of the oil pan. I would over fill a tad, run it till warm and then change.
The reason to put in about 1/2qt of new stuff it to let the timing chain tensioner get soome oil, and to lube the head.

It might make a bit of noise on start up.

[mrsha007]

mike where did you get the magnetic plug?

[EVOIIIM3]

Originally posted by mrsha007
mike where did you get the magnetic plug?

Came with the car. I think it is a OEM part?

[Magnus]

Argh! I changed my oil twice today. Chris, you messed my head-up.

After 5 months of sitting, I too was worried about lack of oil through-out my engine. So I changed my oil once. I got the car working and up to temp and changed the oil again , this time changing my oil filter. I figured it is better to have the car gargle with fresh hot oil (removing any left-over sludge), since I first changed the oil with a cold engine.


QUOTE]Originally posted by Chris F.
Question about that...I haven't started the car since the end of Novemeber. I did "winterize" it as much as possible before hand. When I do get ready to start driving it again, should I drain the oil before starting it for the first time?

It seems like now that all the oil has fully drained out of the engine that I should get it out and some fresh stuff down over the internals again before I go to start it. I figured I would pull the plug and let it drain for a week or so, then refill, start it up and let it idle for awhile to get everything coated again before I drove it.

Any comments on this? [/QUOTE]

[Nick-NY]

I usually start my car up once every two weeks during the winter, and let her run for about 15 minutes.

on the subject of topside oil changers, you should not really use them cause even if you warm the oil up, there will still be sediment that you can't get that falls to the bottom of the pan.
If you do decide to use one of them be sure to take the drain plug out and clean the magnet of the small "shavings".


when I come back from a drive I usually drive really slow around the hood to let the oil and coolant "COOL" as well as the tires so that i don't temp. flat spot them.

Am I the only one that does this?