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  • hardtailer
    replied
    Also for future reference: should the car not start, although the starter motor engages and turns the engine over, it is most likely that the 3 connectors have been mixed up. As a consequence the signals for rpm and tdc cant be processed by the motronic. The third is a diagnostics-only TDC reference that is wired to the diagnostics plug.

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  • BeastPower
    replied
    Originally posted by Mdriver View Post
    Here is my write up to help out the next guy.

    http:\\gabor.gsm.uci.edu\gallery\waterValve\index.htm

    Gabor
    Very nice write-up. Thanks, Daniel.

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    Here is my write up to help out the next guy.

    http:\\gabor.gsm.uci.edu\gallery\waterValve\index.htm

    Gabor

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    Kurt,

    Thank you so much for that tidbit, that did the trick. After removing those three plugs and tray, it was much easier to access!

    The new valve is in and working fine. Thanks for all of the help everyone.

    - gabor

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  • TooTall
    replied
    Gabor,

    In the engine compartment there is a plastic cover over a wiring tray along the top of the firewall. It is about 2 feet long and snaps out. Remove this cover. Just above where the heater hoses pass through the firewall there are three electrical connectors that pass through the bottom of the wiring tray. Label the connectors with some tape or something. Disconnect the connectors. The lower portion of the connectors will just pull out of the bottom of the tray. Mark the lower portions of the connector to match the upper connectors that they mate with so you don't get them mixed up. After the connectors are out of the way the portion of the tray that the connectors pass through will slide out, its a separate piece. You should then have enough room to get to the lower hose. It's still tight but its doable. As for the grommet, I suspect you push it through from the inside. Some lube will help.

    What I have found with this car is that a lot of time you have to take several unrelated things off to get to what you want. I'm a big guy with big hands. Every time I work on the M I come away with scratches and knicks on my arms and hands. It's just the price you pay.

    Cheers,

    Kurt

    Leave a comment:


  • Mdriver
    replied
    update:

    I am completely unable to get the lower metal coolant pipe that runs parallel to the water valve pipe out from the fire wall. From the engine bay, I cannot gain access to the hose that the metal hose plugs into. I swear BMW used children to assemble these cars because my hands have no chance of getting into such a tight area. How much of my engine do I need to disassemble to gain access to the coolant pipes in the engine bay that head into the cabin?

    Also, how to you push a firewall gromit back into its hole?

    Just a little frustrated ...

    -gabor

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    OK, I think by having the heatercore still screwed in, this is preventing better access to the water valve. I will take the heater core screws out first and slide it out, all I need is a good inch of extra space. I have been trying to work on this a little by little on my lunch break

    I am located in Irvine.

    - gabor

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  • TooTall
    replied
    I used both a 1/4" drive socket with a swivel and an 8mm wrench. I have a set of small ignition wrenches and may have used one of those. The tubes from the heater valve extend into the heater core openings about 1/2 inch so when you do get the screws out, the heater valve has to be pushed away from the core toward the firewall to remove it. I found that if I removed the crews holding the core to the heater box and pulled the core out a little I had a little more room to swing a wrench on the bottom screw, that's why I mentioned it.

    Where are you in SoCal?

    Kurt

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  • d2a4
    replied
    The other way is using the 8mm socket and swivel joint. If you don't have one, let me know.

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    HELP! I cannot for the life of me get the two screws (uppermost/lowermost) off the connection between the water valve and the heater core. I used a small cresent wrench and no matter what I do, I cannot get a hold of the screws because of the water valve housing getting in the way! What special tools can you recommend I use to remove this water valve from teh heater core?

    Looking at 'TooTall's' post above he mentions "Take out the screw holding in the heater core". Is this the answer? To remove the heater core screw first? IS this a job where certain parts need to be removed in a specific order?

    - gabor
    Last edited by Mdriver; 03-23-2007, 09:52 AM.

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  • d2a4
    replied
    No, no need to remove bumper to drain. You need the 8mm wrench to remove those 3 screws and lot of patient

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    The screws on the water valve that connect to the heater core are impossible to get off. I can't even get a rachet/socket combo on the upper and lower screws, the space is too small. Already, I was able to drain out a lot of coolant via the broken water valve.

    What tool works best for these guys?

    Also, do I have to reemove the bumper to gain access to the radiator drain plug?

    - gabor

    Leave a comment:


  • TooTall
    replied
    My heater valve failed in the same place. I think I caught it sooner, as I didn't have near as much residue built up. From this point on its not hard. Disconnect the heater hoses, flush and/or blow out as mush coolant as possibe. Take out the screw holding in the heater core. Remove the screw and clip that hold the two pipes up close to the firewall. Take out the three screws holding the heater valve to the heater core. These screws thread into square nuts that slot into the flange on the core, don't lose them! Pull the heater core out of the heater box a little bit (1/4 to 1/2 in.). You should then be able to push the heater valve towards the firewall and seperate it from the heater core. It will take some finaggling but it will come off. Once the valve is out, the heater core slides straight out. Look at the two metal tubes that go through the firewall. Mine had pinholes corroded through the ends where the heater hoses lapped over them. Probably wouldn't have leaked but I replaced them anyway. They were cheap (at least for M parts!) from the dealer.

    Cheers,
    Kurt

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  • Mdriver
    replied
    One quick question!

    It looks like I have the aluminum heater core but what type of heater valve to I buy?

    There are two heater valves,

    http://replacement.autopartswarehous...Valve&dp=false

    which is the correct valve?

    Thanks for the help guys. I will order my parts!

    - gabor
    Last edited by Mdriver; 03-20-2007, 10:45 AM.

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  • d2a4
    replied
    Haha, the valve leaking badly huh. My was leak at the o-rings (a little down from the valve). I replaced the o-rings last month but still smell the coolant, I guess I have to open it up again :(

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