Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Toothed Wheel On Damper

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Toothed Wheel On Damper

    Installed the first (prototype) toothed wheel onto a spare damper. It worked perfectly. Heated the wheel to 350 deg. F for about 40 minutes, with the damper in the freezer. Had a press nearby just in case. Was not necessary.

    The wheel just dropped onto the damper. And was locked in place within seconds, as the heat from the wheel transferred to the damper and the wheel contracted. That wheel is on there, possibly forever. It will not move, that I am sure of

    The design of the wheel allows the outer portion of the damper to move about on its rubber.

    I have not yet installed the set screws.

    The interference fit was 0.002" btw...





    Gustave

  • #2
    Very nice, excellent design! If you plan to have some made for sale, count me in.

    Mike

    Comment


    • #3
      Your picture motivates me to see if I can fit the trigger wheel for my Megajolt lite jr. (using Ford EDIS parts) also at the back of the balancer.

      Where will you put the sensor and have you already made (up) a mount for that?

      Here's a pic of the trigger wheel I need to install:



      it's 5.05 mm thick, 126 mm outer diameter, teeth are 5.5mm high and as a result of a 1mm step the mounted trigger wheel will sit 4 mm away from the rim that has the TDC marking and P/N.

      How thick is your trigger wheel?
      Last edited by hardtailer; 02-27-2005, 06:20 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        When are you going to start marketing this stuff Gustave?

        Jake Larsen

        Comment


        • #5
          Awesome! You just seem to keep them comming!! Thanks for the update once again.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by hardtailer
            Your picture motivates me to see if I can fit the trigger wheel for my Megajolt lite jr. (using Ford EDIS parts) also at the back of the balancer.

            Where will you put the sensor and have you already made (up) a mount for that?

            Here's a pic of the trigger wheel I need to install:



            it's 5.05 mm thick, 126 mm outer diameter, teeth are 5.5mm high and as a result of a 1mm step the mounted trigger wheel will sit 4 mm away from the rim that has the TDC marking and P/N.

            How thick is your trigger wheel?
            My wheel is 0.25" thick (6.35mm) at the toothed surface (thinner as you move inwards).

            There is a bracket for the sensor. Machined from aluminum. It attaches to the water pump area with three (3) points (not two, as is commonly done). Of those three points, two points are in plane, with the third out of plane (like a tripod). I want it to be stiff to prevent jitter and improve S/N ratio.

            The sensor is a 5/8" threaded body inductive type. That way the gap is tunable.

            The bracket is not quite done, still need to determine the location of the treaded hole in the axial direction, which could not be done until the damper had the toothed wheel installed.

            One thing about your wheel that I thought about doing but did not, is the lightening holes. I was concerned that the holes coming and going from the sensor field of view would increase the noise level, in case the sensor could see "through" the wheel to where the holes are. Not sure if it is a show stopper, but something I avoided by making the wheel symmetrically thinner inwards of the toothed face, as opposed to cutting holes through it.

            My wheel weighs 0.87 lbs. Your looks lighter.

            Gustave

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by hardtailer
              Your picture motivates me to see if I can fit the trigger wheel for my Megajolt lite jr. (using Ford EDIS parts) also at the back of the balancer.

              Where will you put the sensor and have you already made (up) a mount for that?

              Here's a pic of the trigger wheel I need to install:



              it's 5.05 mm thick, 126 mm outer diameter, teeth are 5.5mm high and as a result of a 1mm step the mounted trigger wheel will sit 4 mm away from the rim that has the TDC marking and P/N.

              How thick is your trigger wheel?
              You know, the outer diameter of the damper is 122mm. So your teeth might only look 2mm tall, due to the proximity of the damper in the sensor's field of view.

              Something to think about...

              Gustave

              Comment


              • #8
                Gustave, is there a missing tooth on your wheel? I cant tell from the picture.. I was wondering if maybe because you are running sequential with cam position sync that a missing tooth wasnt needed.

                Are there any issues with resolution having only 8 teeth? I thought my trigger wheel had few teeth compared to most. Are there any benefits of higher resolution with more teeth?

                Here is a pic of my trigger wheel. It is a ring that was simply welded to the outer perimeter of the damper. The big problem I have with this is that the wheel is then rubber isolated and therefore now prone to induce more jitter. I think its the easiest way to implement a trigger wheel though...




                Jeff J.
                1990 E30 M3

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jeff J.
                  Gustave, is there a missing tooth on your wheel? I cant tell from the picture.. I was wondering if maybe because you are running sequential with cam position sync that a missing tooth wasnt needed.

                  Are there any issues with resolution having only 8 teeth? I thought my trigger wheel had few teeth compared to most. Are there any benefits of higher resolution with more teeth?

                  Here is a pic of my trigger wheel. It is a ring that was simply welded to the outer perimeter of the damper. The big problem I have with this is that the wheel is then rubber isolated and therefore now prone to induce more jitter. I think its the easiest way to implement a trigger wheel though...
                  Jeff my wheel is simply 8 evenly spaced teeth. No missing teeth. So all that the ECU can derive from the crank is RPM (Ref). However, with a cam sensor (Sync) telling the ECU that the next tooth is the Index tooth (equivalent to TDC on cylinder #1 basically), then it is possible to time sequential events from that knowledge.

                  But the TDC knowledge must be carried forward in time for two crankshaft revolutions (as opposed to only one if you have missing teeth).

                  I am not worried about sensitivity. Sure, 32 teeth is nice (as you have), or even a 60-2 configuration. Modern BMWs use 60-2, but this is mainly for misfire detection (i.e. emissions, a misfire causes a fleeting fluctuation in rpm which can be measured). For the performance end of things, it is not so critical to have tons of teeth. Even the Gr A cars only had 4 teeth, though this was probably to some extent based on limited processing power of the their chips.

                  One thing about running Motec with 32-1 or 60-2 teeth is apparently that the variable RPM during cranking on a lightened engine makes it difficult for the ECU to detect the missing teeth (they look like an rpm fluctuation).

                  Gustave

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeff J.
                    Gustave, is there a missing tooth on your wheel? I cant tell from the picture.. I was wondering if maybe because you are running sequential with cam position sync that a missing tooth wasnt needed.

                    Are there any issues with resolution having only 8 teeth? I thought my trigger wheel had few teeth compared to most. Are there any benefits of higher resolution with more teeth?

                    Here is a pic of my trigger wheel. It is a ring that was simply welded to the outer perimeter of the damper. The big problem I have with this is that the wheel is then rubber isolated and therefore now prone to induce more jitter. I think its the easiest way to implement a trigger wheel though...




                    Jeff, what about adjustablility of the wheel? It seems that yours will have no way to get it "just" right? How much movement do you have with the sensor?

                    PS Did you get my PM?

                    T

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Gustave -

                      Can you tell me what the hub diameter of the s14 crank pully is?

                      Jason

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jrm3
                        Gustave -

                        Can you tell me what the hub diameter of the s14 crank pully is?

                        Jason
                        It's at home and I am on the road.

                        I had the damper diameter turned down on a lathe to perfectly match the ID of the toothed wheel in any case. Since I was using an interference fit.

                        Gustave

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X