update on car

[H a n]

As some of you may remember, I spun a rod bearing two months ago and decided the best (easy & cheap)
way to get my car back on the road was to buy a used motor and do a swap. But, it quickly turned into more...

Here's a list of the things I've replaced:
- guibo
- tranny seals (input, output, shifter)
- tranny fluid (redline)
- tranny mounts
- shifter carrier bushings (uuc)
- shifter selector rod knuckle
- tie rods
- sway bar links (ground control)
- oil cooler
- control arms (aluminium)
- control arm bushings (powerflex)

btw, the powerflex bushings require a bolt to be drilled into the control arm brackets,
to stop it from spinning. Since the CA bushings are known to squeak, I drilled a hole all the way
through to the control arm, and dremeled a groove inside the bushing.
Now, I can grease the bushing from the outside!

about the swap...

the old motor is ready to be pulled out, I just need to rent a cherry picker hoist.
then I can pull the old flywheel/clutch off and install it on the new motor.
btw, if I can get enough, I'm just going to sell the old motor as is.
does anyone know what a 150k mile, stock S14 with recently rebuilt head,
and a spun bearing would go for? If not, I may just end up parting it out.

the new motor is a stock, 100k mile S14 that I bought from VAC. the previous owner pulled it out to
do an M50 swap. It's a very clean motor, evo wires, s52 chain tensioner... But since it has 100k miles,
I've decided to replace the rod bearings, rear main seal, crank gaskets, and upper/lower oil pan gaskets.

hopefully, I should have a running car within the next week or two.
just in time for petersburg prosolo!

here's a pic of the new motor:

[mrsha007]

nice stuff HAN, good luck. Great idea on the CA bushings, can you take some pics? i want to see what you did, i want to duplicate it! im a jocker

peace
shahe

[AlexMc]

Glad to hear she's coming back together..

How complete is the S14 you're trying to sell? intake to headers with ECU/wiring or just a long block?

[Bavarian3]

Are the powerflex bushings a good upgrade? Or basically any urethane bushing is good..

Also, GC swaybar links, well made? Did you take a look at IE sway bar links as well or no?

You going to keep it 2.3?

[Magnus]

Very cool.

[H a n]

Shahe,
I can take a pic, but you won't be able to see much.
I wish I had a CAD program, then I could draw it out for you guys.
Btw, the bushing grease path was the idea of a porsche friend,
apparently 911s are notorious for having squeaky bushings.

Alex,
The old motor is everything from the plenum to the headers, wiring
harness included, but no ECU.

Michael,
I went with powerflex because they seem to be a good compromise
between the stock bushings and the delrin race bushings. Since the
control arms are a common failure item, I think it's a good idea not
to go with a race bushing, all you're doing is transfering extra
stress on to the ball joints.

The GC swaybar links are awesome. Spherical bearings, adjustable
length, anodized... very nice. Actually, they look pretty similar to
the IE ones.



and yes, the new motor will remain a stock 2.3

[HANDBLT]

Speaking of adj sway bar links. How do you adjust them? If the car is sitting normal do you want the ends of the sway bars parallel with the ground? Angled up? Down? What is right and wrong?

T

[EVOIIIM3]

Yea, I always say rebuilding a motor is not cheap due to all the NEW bits you need to put in. I guess it's the same for engine swaps to.

It's also a good time to replace the engine/trans mounts.

Good luck!

[H a n]

Originally posted by HANDBLT
Speaking of adj sway bar links. How do you adjust them? If the car is sitting normal do you want the ends of the sway bars parallel with the ground? Angled up? Down? What is right and wrong?

T

Adjustable swaybar links are supposed to get rid of the preload in the swaybars.
To adjust the link, you jack up your car, disconnect your swaybars from the links,
put your car back on the ground, crawl under the car as much as you can and adjust
the length of the links until they can connect to the bars, then re-connect them.

[HANDBLT]

Thank you.

T

[Spectre]

Han, why didn't you just put new bearings in your motor? Did you chew up the crank when you spun the bearing? BTW, I have yet to drill the hole to secure my bushings and they haven't slipped at all. But I probably will do that sometime soon, but my car isn't going anywhere for awhile. Probably won't go anywhere untill I take it to the McHenreys's shop for a 2.5 conversion.

[H a n]

Originally posted by Spectre
Han, why didn't you just put new bearings in your motor? Did you chew up the crank when you spun the bearing? BTW, I have yet to drill the hole to secure my bushings and they haven't slipped at all. But I probably will do that sometime soon, but my car isn't going anywhere for awhile. Probably won't go anywhere untill I take it to the McHenreys's shop for a 2.5 conversion.

The rod bearings on the old motor were chewed up pretty bad, I'm not sure how bad the crank is.
The motor needs to be torn down, and cleaned to get rid of all the pieces of metal floating around in the oil system.

[Spectre]

Generally speaking, is it safe to assume that a rod bearing would spin before a main bearing? With the rotating action I would assume so.

[H a n]

damn, good thing I decided to change the rod bearings on the new (100k) motor!
On the 3rd and 5th bearings (from the left), you can actually feel a ridge,
and the 3rd one has groove scraped all the way around.

[Stan]

Han, what order are the bearings in? As in, left to right: Cylinder 4 (firewall) top and bottom, 3 top and bottom... Thanks.. You must be glad you checked it out, and rod bearings aren't that pricey compared to a later disaster.

Stan