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Manifold studs Turner vs. Stock

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  • 1st Roundel
    replied
    Your leak may be now the disintegration of the gasket which snugging may not help. Quick answer for the other is that I think Turner are SS for ease of future removal and of course hex key cut in for ease of install. Do you really want to double nut 8, sometimes PITA located studs into (or back out of) the head? That has to be worth something.

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  • Lumanikus
    replied
    While i wait for the Turner kit to get here im going to snug up the bolts that are left on the manifold because its just to big a leak and i have to DD her now. So in casual conversation an old gear head buddy of mine was giving me a hard time as to why i didn't just pick up some compatible quality studs at the local shop. I honesty didn't have a good retort other than im a bit ocd and I don't want to cut corners on this car, It deserves better. But His point "obviously the stock ones aren't working that great, BMW bolts aren't stamped BMW..." was hard to argue with.

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  • Lumanikus
    commented on 's reply
    This what i originally thought i would do. I "think" that's how we did it the first time 10yrs ago but hell if i can recall.

  • GeoS
    replied
    Yep. Installed the Turner bolts too. Had the engine out at the time so access was easy.

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  • CFerb
    replied
    Turner is the way to go IMO. Anything should thread in pretty easily but with how much of a pain they can be to access you might as well make it as easy as you can.

    Coolant pipe is a piece of cake, just depends on whether or not you want to deal with draining the coolant. The real difficulty with the job is just getting to some of the manifold bolts in the first place, and you'll definitely want to go from below for a few of them. If I remember right everything was fairly straightforward though.

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  • 1st Roundel
    replied
    Had good luck with the Turner kit. IIRC I revolved everything from the bottom and left the coolant pipe in place. You can search my comments in case I am having a senior moment. As you move down the system for removal, you may find you need some perished bits down around the hangers and where it bolts to the rest of the system.


    Originally posted by Lumanikus View Post
    Yup just ordered the Turner kit. I have spare nuts to jic..
    I've noticed a lot of people recommend removing that coolant rail. How big a pita is that? Anything you have to do special? I'm guessing ill have to remove some from over and a few under access.
    Good time to pop on my silicon hose kit i bought. Next weekend this is all I'm doing. Another week of race car exhaust i guess...

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  • Lumanikus
    replied
    Yup just ordered the Turner kit. I have spare nuts to jic..
    I've noticed a lot of people recommend removing that coolant rail. How big a pita is that? Anything you have to do special? I'm guessing ill have to remove some from over and a few under access.
    Good time to pop on my silicon hose kit i bought. Next weekend this is all I'm doing. Another week of race car exhaust i guess...

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  • Ironhead
    replied
    Originally posted by ItsNotTheNissan View Post

    Combination of heat and vibrational/bending loads. Heat artificially ages the metal which causes embrittlement of the studs.
    Perhaps, but it sure is freakin irritating. On my last go round I had one that broke below the surface of the head. None of the usual "broken bolt/stud" tricks to remove it worked, and not wanting to screw up the head I ultimately had to have it EDM machined out.

    I wish some smart person would come up with a permanent fix for this problem....although I have no idea what it might be.

    I also suspect that the loads on each individual stud might be lower if BMW had designed the manifold with a one piece flange instead of the four individual flanges. I am sure during the heating/cooling cycles the four primary pipes move independently of one another somewhat, and it seems like a thick one piece flange might have minimized that. I'm sure BMW knew what they were doing, but it is hard to see what advantage there was to the individual flanges.
    Last edited by Ironhead; 05-21-2015, 03:49 AM.

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  • ItsNotTheNissan
    replied
    Originally posted by Ironhead View Post

    That is one of the things that has always driven me crazy about these cars....why do the damn header studs break off? I replaced all of mine perhaps 8K miles ago and I already have one that is broken. I used to think they broke because of impacts to the exhaust system when going over speed bumps or whatever....but I am pretty sure that never happened this time.
    Combination of heat and vibrational/bending loads. Heat artificially ages the metal which causes embrittlement of the studs.

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  • Ironhead
    replied
    Originally posted by Konig View Post
    Any secrets on replacing these studs? I've got a bag of Turner parts but no clue how to get access.
    There's no real secret. I would suggest draining the coolant and removing the coolant pipe from the side of the head. It is also an easier job if you completely remove the exhaust header, possibly doing this is essential if you have some studs broken off.

    That is one of the things that has always driven me crazy about these cars....why do the damn header studs break off? I replaced all of mine perhaps 8K miles ago and I already have one that is broken. I used to think they broke because of impacts to the exhaust system when going over speed bumps or whatever....but I am pretty sure that never happened this time.

    I always use high temp red Locktite when installing the studs, because another thing they like to do is back out and fall off. Not sure if the Locktite survives the heat, but I will try anything I can to avoid having to do the job again.

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  • Konig
    replied
    Any secrets on replacing these studs? I've got a bag of Turner parts but no clue how to get access.

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  • Lumanikus
    replied
    Anything that makes this easier is a plus. Not to mention i think i might be able to check them and snug them down every 3mo or so? Or until i forget...

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  • Freude Am Fahren
    replied
    I went with Turner and the allen head makes it super easy to install and tighten. I have lost too many stock exhausts to count but I'm yet to let a Turner stud go. I vote turner.

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  • jibbajabba
    replied
    Assuming you clean and chase out the threads, the stock ones go in easy.

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  • GGray
    replied
    Im pretty sure the Turner ones are OEM BMW from aomethign else I think the Euro M88/S38 had them.

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