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Yet another S14B25 rebuild thread

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  • Thank you Steve. I had another look and can still not figure it out. I would post photos but it seems that I have reached the 15MB limit on s14.net. Previously I used tinypic.com but they stopped their service. What is a good way to post photos, without having them disapper after some time?

    With „read card“, do you mean the trim right and left of the rear seat? The opening in the shell just behind where the front seatbelt is mounted?

    I don‘t see where these parts could be fitted there.

    Thanks for any further advice you can give.

    Marc

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    • I use Flickr. Once upon a time it was free with unlimited storage, and they were losing money hand over fist, so I believe at this point it's free up to 1000 photos and then paid beyond that.

      I like it because it's decently easy to use and they don't compress/alter your photos, they're stored at full resolution.
      1989 Lachs
      1988 Lachs - sold
      1988 DS - sold
      Bay Area M3 FB group

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      • Thank you, I just made an account with Flickr and am trying it out now.

        So here is the area which I understood Steve was referring to

        When looking to the rear end of the car inside of that opening in the shell, this is the location I understood where the part should be located according to ETK. As you can see, this doesn‘t seem to be right.

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        • Konig
          Konig commented
          Editing a comment
          Photos look good for me!

      • That looks correct to me.

        It doesn't fit well.
        Sport Evo No.47

        My Sport Evo Restoration

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        • I went to the junk yard today to scavenge some E30 bits, and I thought of you and took a couple photos. This was a normal 325i but I bet it's all the same. Looks like you have it mostly right, need to rotate the lower edge forward so the little lip lands on the wheelhouse.





          I'm not sure if that's intended to be some type of NVH barrier but maybe you can put a strip of compressible foam around the perimeter to help it do a better job.

          At Tesla (and at every other OEM these days I'm sure) we put baffles in the body in white to break up the big long sections so they wouldn't be echo chambers. The baffles have a solid plastic center and are over-molded with a material that expands during the paint bake and closes off the section completely. They can also be used for local structural reinforcement.

          https://automotive.sika.com/en/solut...ikabaffle.html
          1989 Lachs
          1988 Lachs - sold
          1988 DS - sold
          Bay Area M3 FB group

          Comment


          • Thank you Konig for taking the time to take and post these photos, this really helped me out! I was able to fit the parts in the same location, but obviously the fit is nowhere near as good on the M3, because of the larger wheel wells and fenders. This seems to be one of the only plastic parts which BMW decided not to adapt to the different M3 shell, probably because it’s hidden where no one can see it.

            I am still struggling on deciding how to proceed with the power steering. I ordered a replacement seal for the rack, but I cannot figure out how to install it without having to pull it over that sharp groove. I would appreciate any input on how others did this. I really want to avoid the rack leaking again after reassembly.

            Thank you.
            Marc

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            • Originally posted by evo_3 View Post
              Thank you Konig for taking the time to take and post these photos, this really helped me out! I was able to fit the parts in the same location, but obviously the fit is nowhere near as good on the M3, because of the larger wheel wells and fenders. This seems to be one of the only plastic parts which BMW decided not to adapt to the different M3 shell, probably because it’s hidden where no one can see it.

              I am still struggling on deciding how to proceed with the power steering. I ordered a replacement seal for the rack, but I cannot figure out how to install it without having to pull it over that sharp groove. I would appreciate any input on how others did this. I really want to avoid the rack leaking again after reassembly.

              Thank you.
              Marc
              sorry if I’m missing something but can you slide the tube with seal from the right side over the gear cuts?

              There'll be Spandex jackets one for everyone ...

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              • The rack is slightly bigger in diameter where the gear is cut, so the tube can only be installed from one side.

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                • Just an idea, could you select an oring which when stretched over the inner rack shaft drops nicely in to the groove and fills it up thus allowing the tube and seal to slide over it with out catching on sharp edge then cut oring out when done.

                  E30 M3 1987
                  Mini Clubman GT
                  BMW E36 323 Msport
                  Toyota Corona
                  KTM 200EXC
                  Honda CB50 (1979)

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                  • Thank you for this idea Dave, I think this might work. Ideally I could try finding an O-Ring with a square cross-section, to completely fill out the groove. I will measure the grooves tonight and see if I can find something that fits the groove properly.

                    Alternatively, you suggestion just made me come up with the idea to fill the grooves with silicone sealant or something similar. Ideally something that dries out to be less elastic than normal silicone. I could fill up the grooves so that the sealant protrudes slightly, and then after drying cut off everything that stands out with a razor blade.

                    I will follow up on both options and let you know what I come up with.

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                    • I tried out a few options with an old seal and the solution I will use for the installation of the new seal is the following:

                      I filled both notches with glue from a hot glue gun. After the glue was dried, I cut the excess glue with a very sharp razor blade type scraper. The result was nicely filled notches with a material strong enough to support the spring pressure of the seal, but when sliding over it with a finger, I could still slightly feel the sharp edges. Even though this would most likely have been fine when using some ATF or assembly grease as lubricant, I decided to add an additional step to the assembly procedure. I used a thin feeler gauge of 0,15mm (from a set of feeler gauges for valve adjustment) which I wrapped around the rod and secured with a cable tie. This ring can then gently be slid over the rod and under the seal, in order to slightly relieve its spring tension. The feeler gauge should not be forced under the actual sealing lip, it is just intended to remove the spring force pushing the sealing lip against the rod. The position of the feeler gauge relative to the seal must not change when sliding the tube over the notches, so I used one of the washers from the piston assembly to keep constant pressure on the feeler gauge, while pulling the tube with the seal from the other side.

                      With some assembly lubricant, this really feels a lot better than simply sliding the new seal over the sharp notches. The glue can easily be removed from the notches with a small screwdriver or a pick tool.

                      Thank you for your ideas which pointed me in the right direction here. I hope this is maybe of some help for somebody else planning to do the same job.

                      Nevertheless, I would still be interested how this assembly was done in the factory, or how it was described in the BMW or ZF repair manuals. I'm sure it didn't involve glue and a feeler gauge :-)




                      Marc

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