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  • #91
    Originally posted by Dave @nz View Post
    I would buy a can of LPS-3 and preserve the old block and pistons from corrosion, they are still a valuable items and well worth the time to look after them.
    Dave
    I have a new Evo III block in my garage. The exterior surfaces have been coated for corrosion prevention, but I've often wondered about surface corrosion in the internal coolant and oil channels. Am I over-thinking it or is there something to use in there as well that isn't potentially harmful or hard to flush out of the cooling or oiling system down the road when I finally use the thing?
    Alles Beste!

    B. Wheaton
    1989 E30 M3, Owner since June 2000
    2008 E61 535xiT - The DD and work horse

    http://www.bayareamotorsport.com

    Register your E30 M3!
    http://www.bmwmregistry.com

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    • #92
      Originally posted by Brandon View Post

      I have a new Evo III block in my garage. The exterior surfaces have been coated for corrosion prevention, but I've often wondered about surface corrosion in the internal coolant and oil channels. Am I over-thinking it or is there something to use in there as well that isn't potentially harmful or hard to flush out of the cooling or oiling system down the road when I finally use the thing?

      Brandon - Same here. I have my block in a climate controlled garage, but I'm tempted to put it inside my bedroom closet... Interested in what the experts have to say!

      90 Sterling 2.5L E30///M3 lifer
      97 Porsche Carrera S
      13 Audi S6
      SOLD 03 Audi RS6 daily
      GONE 88 E28///M5 project

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      • #93
        I'm no expert....but WD40 is made for stuff like this.

        I would just spray on a coat of WD40 on all unpainted surfaces and in the oil/water channels once a year or so. Doing that I am pretty positive you will never have an issue.

        Light surface rust in the oil/water passages would not really hurt anything, but I would spray them nonetheless. I would be most concerned about the cylinder bores and to a lesser extent the gasket sealing surfaces.

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        • #94
          Originally posted by Ironhead View Post
          I'm no expert....but WD40 is made for stuff like this.

          I would just spray on a coat of WD40 on all unpainted surfaces and in the oil/water channels once a year or so. Doing that I am pretty positive you will never have an issue.

          Light surface rust in the oil/water passages would not really hurt anything, but I would spray them nonetheless. I would be most concerned about the cylinder bores and to a lesser extent the gasket sealing surfaces.
          TY! As much of an expert as I know...

          Another task to add to the list. Glad good old handy WD40 works. The LCS-3 stuff sounds great, but pricey at about $20+ per can and not easy to source...

          90 Sterling 2.5L E30///M3 lifer
          97 Porsche Carrera S
          13 Audi S6
          SOLD 03 Audi RS6 daily
          GONE 88 E28///M5 project

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          • #95
            Great job you are doing!
            If you still would like to doublecheck your old block for cracks instead of the pressure- and the not performed magnetic particle method I would perform a dye penetrant exam. of the areas of the block surfaces you suspect have cracks. It is very simple and accurate NDT method which you can do yourself. You clean the area and apply a red penetrant liquid with a brush. Let it work for some minutes. Remove the red penetrant liquid as good as possible. Apply after that a white developer. After some minutes you will see, if present, the crack in red in the white developer. If all is white 😀
            The liquids can be bought for small moneys or got/loaned from some company doing welding/NDT testning.

            M3 E30, the real one...
            Sport Evolution, the ultimate one!

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            • #96
              Dave,
              thanks for your opinion, I agree and will use new bolts in order not to risk anything, especially on this engine.
              I also was only able to remove the tensioner pin from my old block with a good pair of pliers. It was installed with some Loctite and was quite hard to remove. I slightly damaged the circular surface which really doesn't have any function, but I would buy a new one in any case.

              I will definitely preserve the old block correctly, who knows if I will maybe need/reuse it one day...

              Brandon and SeattleE30///M3, could one of you two make me a favor and check if your new blocks came with this tensioner pin and with main bearing bolts? I want to avoid having to order parts a second time after ordering the block, and of course I don't want to buy the same parts two times... Thanks a lot in advance.

              Sonny,
              thanks a lot for this recommendation. I already heard about this testing method, but wasn't aware that it was so easy to perform. I found the products on German amazon for around 30 (cleaner, dye penetrant and developer). I'm sure the cleaning can also be done with simple break cleaner, or what would be your recommendation here?

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              • #97
                I don't recall tensioner pin being installed on the block. I should be able to get back to you early next week with definitive answers.

                90 Sterling 2.5L E30///M3 lifer
                97 Porsche Carrera S
                13 Audi S6
                SOLD 03 Audi RS6 daily
                GONE 88 E28///M5 project

                Comment


                • #98
                  If you should do a dye penetrant exam. you could most likely use brake cleaner, but I have never use it myself. Brake cleaner is very vanishing which is most appropriate. A lot of cleaners is ok, also nafta based ones. Aceton is maybe the most appropriate one, however, the red pentrant liquid is VERY penetrating and will go into any (whatever size) surface breaking defect, so you do not need to worry if it even is some engine oil left in the possible crack.
                  Typically, Bycotest is a known brand for these liquids. For cleaning they have their own mark C10. The red penetration liquid is named RP20 and the developer D30, or D30plus (later one).
                  If you do not find these, come back with a pm...

                  M3 E30, the real one...
                  Sport Evolution, the ultimate one!

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                  • #99
                    Thank you SeattleE30///M3, I would appreciate your feedback on this.

                    Sonny, thanks fir the further info. Will definitely do this test and post the result here.

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                    • Originally posted by SeattleE30///M3 View Post
                      I don't recall tensioner pin being installed on the block. I should be able to get back to you early next week with definitive answers.
                      I stand corrected. There is a tensioner pin. I was able to find a pic of the block.

                      90 Sterling 2.5L E30///M3 lifer
                      97 Porsche Carrera S
                      13 Audi S6
                      SOLD 03 Audi RS6 daily
                      GONE 88 E28///M5 project

                      Comment


                      • The LPS-3 sprays on and dries out after a day or so to a soft wax film which can be washed of with most petrol products or degreaser. Being a wax and not drying out is good for extended periods with out re applying another layer. Probably equally as good products out there but I have not used them.
                        I would spray it all over but not inside the old galleries or up inside the water jacket where you can not see if it is washed out properly prior to re-comisson.
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeaKjU0nac8

                        E30 M3 1987
                        Mini Clubman GT
                        BMW E36 323 Msport
                        Toyota Corona
                        KTM 200EXC
                        Honda CB50 (1979)

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                        • Thanks Seattle, that's good news. First that I don't need to buy it because it's quite exoensive for a simple pin made out of steel, and second because I don't need to install it. Any chance to see if there are main bearing cap bolts installed in your block on your photos?

                          The LPS-3 seems to be similar to the product "Daubert Motorstor"' which I know from my work. Maybe that's easier to source for some people than the LPS-3.

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                          • Sonny, I'm unable to send you a PM. Due to the comma in your name, the system thinks that I want to send the message to two users, which is not possible, so I get an error message... Could you maybe send me a PM, so I will try to reply? Thanks!

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                            • While working on my parts order, found one item which was not installed in my engine: a shim plate between the crank shaft rear flange and the flywheel:

                              I also attached a photo of the part which I found on google. Should this part really be installed in the S14 engine, or is this a mistake in the parts catalogue?

                              Thanks
                              Marc

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                              • I don't have one fitted, and I don't know anyone with a 2.5 who has.
                                Sport Evo No.47

                                My Sport Evo Restoration

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