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Broken88's Engine Assembly Question Thread

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  • #16
    Make sure you torque the front crank bolt up to spec. 440nm, I used a second person and a 3/4 drive torque wrench.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Broken88 View Post
      I am having the worst time finding torque specs for this engine. Wish Bentley just made a repair manual for these cars. The e-manuals just seem to be missing so much information.
      Here is a good site for torque specs. Click on contents and then "tightening torques" bottom right.
      https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/941en/index.htm

      The torque specs are for various engines - you'll have to read them carefully.
      Joseph

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      • #18
        Awesome info! Thanks everyone.

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        • #19
          Well while installing the windage tray in the upper oil pan, one of my brand new bolts broke. It wasn't even all the way down and it snapped right in half. It was the second to last bolt I had remaining. All the other bolts have already had red loctite applied and been torqued. This should be fun trying to extract an m6 bolt from inside the windage tray.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Broken88 View Post
            Well while installing the windage tray in the upper oil pan, one of my brand new bolts broke. It wasn't even all the way down and it snapped right in half. It was the second to last bolt I had remaining. All the other bolts have already had red loctite applied and been torqued. This should be fun trying to extract an m6 bolt from inside the windage tray.
            I would take it to a machinist. They have ways of getting broken bolts out that you cannot really do without proper gear, and you can easily screw the job up and make it more difficult if you muck around with it.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Ironhead View Post

              I would take it to a machinist. They have ways of getting broken bolts out that you cannot really do without proper gear, and you can easily screw the job up and make it more difficult if you muck around with it.
              Probably a good idea. After looking up prices for the upper oil pan, I definitely don't want to mess it up.

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              • #22
                Not tried it myself, but told it does work well if you keep it heated.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM
                This space is a sanctimonious shit free zone.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by BMG View Post
                  Not tried it myself, but told it does work well if you keep it heated.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM
                  That was pretty hard to watch due to the fact that I was laughing so hard! That guy was amazing! Very interesting though. If I thought I could get it was tight around there, I would totally try that. The oil pan is aluminum correct? And the bolt would be made of steel?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Broken88 View Post

                    That was pretty hard to watch due to the fact that I was laughing so hard! That guy was amazing! Very interesting though. If I thought I could get it was tight around there, I would totally try that. The oil pan is aluminum correct? And the bolt would be made of steel?
                    His videos are great and always good for as laugh.
                    Oil pan is ally and the bolt a steel one. I keep meaning to try that on some scrap stuff and see if it works and how long it takes.
                    This space is a sanctimonious shit free zone.

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                    • #25
                      Ok. My local machine shop told me they wouldn't remove the broken bolt. Said it would open up a whole can of worms if they tried and that the 9 other bolts should hold it just fine. That's not good enough for me. So that is on hold, while I try and figure something out.

                      Next questions:

                      In the timing chain diagram, should there be a washer (#12 in the photo) between the circlip and the timing chain rail? I ordered 2 from the part numbers I found on realoem.com, but it does not appear that anything will fit between the circlip and the rail. All the photos I have found online have no washer and have the circlip sitting directly on the rail.

                      Next question, every timing rail I have seen is white, why is mine brown? The part number on it is: 117311308495 Which is different than what realoem.com lists (11311308495) but the part numbers are very similar. Did I receive the wrong part? When I google the part# on the rail I received, I receive no results. That makes me think it is just re-numbered. I have attached photos of my rail as well.

                      Man I am never going to get this engine together with all these roadblocks I am hitting.

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                      • #26
                        Hi,
                        Try another machine shop, if left not fixed the S14 will vibrate the baffle until it cracks no worries at all. I think the machine shop would drill a hole all the way through the bolt install an easy out along with some heat from a heat gun to loosen the locktite to allow it to screw out.

                        No washers required the parts manual is not correct.

                        E30 M3 1987
                        Mini Clubman GT
                        BMW E36 323 Msport
                        Toyota Corona
                        KTM 200EXC
                        Honda CB50 (1979)

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                        • #27
                          Yeah...definitely find another machine shop. Removing broken bolts is machining 101. I don't know what they mean by "open a whole can of worms". More than likely all that would be needed to remove it would be drilling it out with a reverse twist bit....but that requires a mill to keep everything precisely located and centered.

                          It's funny....even if the other 9 bolts would hold it....I could never happily drive around in a car with a broken bolt just sitting there....not having been dealt with. Too anal...it would drive me nuts.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by christsay View Post
                            The o-ring is in it's own recessed ring on the pipe, so once the pipe is fully flush against the block it won't compress anymore. I was worried about it being crushed but after taking a look at things it won't get smashed to a pancake.

                            Speaking of o-rings and timing gear, don't forget the two o-rings that go in the guide:
                            no o-ring! by chris tsay, on Flickr

                            -chris
                            Just out of curiosity, what purpose do the o rings serve on that tensioner?

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Ironhead View Post
                              Yeah...definitely find another machine shop. Removing broken bolts is machining 101. I don't know what they mean by "open a whole can of worms". More than likely all that would be needed to remove it would be drilling it out with a reverse twist bit....but that requires a mill to keep everything precisely located and centered.

                              It's funny....even if the other 9 bolts would hold it....I could never happily drive around in a car with a broken bolt just sitting there....not having been dealt with. Too anal...it would drive me nuts.
                              I am the same way. I could even see myself possibly passing it off if it were another one of my projects or a motor with a lot of miles. But this is my dream car and I will not be cutting any corners along the way. I have redone everything under the hood and spent a fortune on the rebuild. I will figure something out.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by kundiboy View Post

                                Just out of curiosity, what purpose do the o rings serve on that tensioner?
                                I would assume they are used as sort of a bushing. I imagine that tension may vibrate a lot, and this avoids metal on metal contact.

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