Uprated Clutch

[hesnotthemessiah]

A bit of advice really guys.....

I have recently had my engine rebuilt and pretty much everything uprated.....from engine and gearbox mounts through to shims, cams, pistons etc.......

It is now around 265BHP.....maybe a tad more once it's run in and had it's oil change....

One thing I forgot to do are the clutch plates.....

A) Does it need it (I'm guessing yes)?
B) Any recommendations?

I've noted the Sachs one from MS Motorsport.....looks reasonable...?


Thank you in advance


David

[Kevin///m3]

My car is finishing up a complete restoration, and my engine should be making somewhere around 275 crank HP. I did research and ended up going with a clutchmasters unit which is built off the Sachs pressure plate. http://www.clutchmasters.com/fx200-03010-hdkv/ Some say that the stock clutch will work even on a built motor, which doesn't shock me. Even built motors aren't make that much torque.

Car hits the dyno for tuning on Saturday and i'll be driving it shortly after. I'll post my feedback in a few weeks. I can tell you the pedal is no heavier than stock (then again, I haven't depressed a pedal with a stock clutch in 4 years).

[indie_wannabe]

I have a fairly high spec street motor: 2.5L, 292/284 cam, ported head, larger intake valves, aftermarket ECU, CF box, 48 mm throttle bodies, light weigh pistons and connecting rods. I ordered a Clutchmasters - E30 M3 Clutch Kit CM FX200, in Nov 2011. This was a heavy duty pressure plate with kevlar disk. I eventually had to remove the Clutchmaster and replaced it with a stock clutch assy with a beefed up pressure plate. The CM unit I put in made terrible, resonate noise on deceleration. It sounded like the exhaust was coming in contact with the car's body. The noise was nearly unbearable. Another member, Anders had a similar problem with another CM unit - see here. I would not use a CM clutch with an S14 unless Clutchmasters could convince me that had made changes to address the noise issue.

I've seen knowledge able members say that the stock clutch makes plenty of friction/clamping force for a S14 - even a higher output S14. A turbo motor is another story. While the stock clutch disk will transmit all the torque you're likely to get out of a NA S14, the pressure plate can fail. My research lead me install a beefed up stock pressure plate with a stock disk. If I remember correctly, the main durability upgrade to the PP was improvements to the PP straps. I'm happy with the clutch I using now. I'm not having any problems with noise or slippage. What I'm using now is a HiTorque Clutch Assembly from Metric Mechanic in Missouri.

Brad

[Ironhead]

I agree with the two prior posts....even highly built S14s have very little torque and I think the stock clutch would still work pretty well.

Having said that, I have been running the OS Giken clutch for many years, but that's basically because I am a dork. I don't think it is necessary.

[Kevin///m3]

I have a fairly high spec street motor: 2.5L, 292/284 cam, ported head, larger intake valves, aftermarket ECU, CF box, 48 mm throttle bodies, light weigh pistons and connecting rods. I ordered a Clutchmasters - E30 M3 Clutch Kit CM FX200, in Nov 2011. This was a heavy duty pressure plate with kevlar disk. I eventually had to remove the Clutchmaster and replaced it with a stock clutch assy with a beefed up pressure plate. The CM unit I put in made terrible, resonate noise on deceleration. It sounded like the exhaust was coming in contact with the car's body. The noise was nearly unbearable. Another member, Anders had a similar problem with another CM unit - see here. I would not use a CM clutch with an S14 unless Clutchmasters could convince me that had made changes to address the noise issue.

I've seen knowledge able members say that the stock clutch makes plenty of friction/clamping force for a S14 - even a higher output S14. A turbo motor is another story. While the stock clutch disk will transmit all the torque you're likely to get out of a NA S14, the pressure plate can fail. My research lead me install a beefed up stock pressure plate with a stock disk. If I remember correctly, the main durability upgrade to the PP was improvements to the PP straps. I'm happy with the clutch I using now. I'm not having any problems with noise or slippage. What I'm using now is a HiTorque Clutch Assembly from Metric Mechanic in Missouri.

Brad

I have a very similar build. Did you ever run it on the dyno?

My CM clutch is installed, so I'm gonna give it a go. Hopefully I have better results that you did. Did you balance the clutch with the rest of the engine rotating assembly?

[hesnotthemessiah]

Thanks so much for the advice guys.....So I guess it is not really necessary? The clutch does feel slightly lighter than it used to....Don't know whether that is significant?

Currently without running in and oil change.....

207lb-ft of torque
263BHP

[indie_wannabe]

I have a very similar build. Did you ever run it on the dyno?

My CM clutch is installed, so I'm gonna give it a go. Hopefully I have better results that you did. Did you balance the clutch with the rest of the engine rotating assembly?

I haven't run it on the dyno. Hopefully that'll change soon. I did have the flywheel surfaced and the rotating assy balanced including the clutch.


Kevin,

What type of dyno did you test on? Dynojet? Mustang? Looks like a strong engine. Congrats!

[Kevin///m3]

I haven't run it on the dyno. Hopefully that'll change soon. I did have the flywheel surfaced and the rotating assy balanced including the clutch.


Kevin,

What type of dyno did you test on? Dynojet? Mustang? Looks like a strong engine. Congrats!

I'll reply to all and let everyone know my feelings on the CM clutch. Its in there and my car is 99% done a 3 year restoration, so its staying in there until it needs to come out. Will suck to have to pull it out, but I'm remaining positive until such a time.


With regard to the engine, my build consists of 2.5 crank, Carbon airbox, substantially ported head, Supertech valvetrain, 292/284 cams, upgraded forged rods, forged 11.5CR Ross pistons. I'm running Maxx Alpha N with closed loop O2 sensor feature. Running the TechEdge wideband O2 sensor per Maxx suggestion. I'm running the stock throttle bodies, which are port matched to the enlarged intake ports on the head. Its a street engine, so I felt compelled to limit it to the spec as outlined above.

Dyno is a dyanpack, which based on what I've read, i need to factor in a 15% driveline loss. Will let you know what happens. Cams are timed for stronger mid range as opposed to peak power.

[Ironhead]

I haven't run it on the dyno. Hopefully that'll change soon. I did have the flywheel surfaced and the rotating assy balanced including the clutch.


Kevin,

What type of dyno did you test on? Dynojet? Mustang? Looks like a strong engine. Congrats!

My current build is 292/284 as well. I haven't got around to dynoing it either. It's on my list...

[Kevin///m3]

So I've got my car back with the above mentioned Clutch Masters clutch. There is some rattling on deceleration, but nothing crazy (my car is loud all around).

I think the clutch feels almost identical to stock, if anything, a lighter pedal. Seems to engage late in the pedal travel but that might be an install/adjustment thing, I might try a small clutch stop to see how I like it.

[JimK]

The project I bought had a Kevlar CM disc. Trans made noise, I thought it was failing. Checked with a trusted transmission builder who upon hearing what the disc was, advised right away with the BMW to put stock disc in. I did so and the noise went away. The attached photos show the spring dampener on the stock disc.