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Your Recommendations/Replacement Parts while Cylinder head is off

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  • Your Recommendations/Replacement Parts while Cylinder head is off

    I have to replace my Timing Chain, guides, and rails. The Lower timing chain rail will need the cylinder head taken off.
    So while the cylinder head is off, what should I replace? I am not doing the work, it's at a shop.

    I appreciate your inputs.
    thx ed

  • #2
    I would definitely have the head sent out to be reconditioned. May be obvious but seen many slap a head back on without getting it serviced by a machine shop.

    Other than that, hoses, clamps, all fluids and filters, plugs, and the rest would be on a case by case basis. Get them to remove dowels in block and run the deck over with a new sharpening stone.

    Check the oil restrictor is in place. If you are doing lower guides, I guess you will have oil pan off too? You could replace big end bearing, hone cylinders and fit new rings if they feel comfortable doing in car? I did my number 1 cylinder as the cylinder was corroded.

    Comment


    • #3
      What's the specifics on your engine like # of miles, leakdown / compression numbers?? In my eyes, timing components should be replaced about the same time when the cylinders are starting to get out of round, and bearings are starting to show signs of wear. IOW, maybe it's time for a complete rebuild? What's making you want to replace the timing components???
      Ron ///Man

      • '91 Gr-A Former CiBiEmme / Ravaglia - Sold
      • '90 M3 Faux EVOII Alpineweiss 36K Orig Owner - The Queen
      • '91 M3 Faux EVO III Brilliantrot Euro Driveline - The Rocket
      • '91 M3 Faux Gr-A Club Racer DM - The Alter EGO
      • '89 M3 M3T / ITR Club Racer
      • '94 Spec E36 - Eh....
      • '09 M3 - Tarmac Terrorist
      • '04 330Xi Sport 6 Speed - Snowmobile
      • '07 530 Xi - Highway Star
      • http://www.imwcarparts.com/e30-m3-parts.htm


      Comment


      • #4
        Almost 200,000 miles. I don't know the compression numbers, but it feels fine.
        It started with getting oil pan, valve cover, transmission leaks fixed. I said can you change the chain tensioner, it's rattling quite a bit on startup.
        They took off the oil pan and showed me how loose the timing chain was. Decided to change the chain.
        They took off the timing chain cover and... the chain guides were worn. They said I should replace them.
        And they said I needed new camshaft soon, they are pitted, Markus took care of that.
        The cause of all this, is oil level. I let the oil level get to low. Well, I can't change that now.
        Two weeks later, they said the parts are in.
        But they can't get the lower timing chain rail out or installed correctly without taking the cylinder head off. There is a post here that says it. So I told them to go ahead.
        They said once the head is off, he will let me know about a complete rebuild.

        They are Auburn Foreign Car. Lance Richert recommended AFC. Lance is president? of PNW E30 club. He hold the E30 Picnic each year. June 23th Tacoma Washington. Should be about 40 M3s there and about 200 E30s.

        Comment


        • #5
          Honestly at this point a rebuild seems like a good investment. Given the unknown compression numbers and oil issues and mileage, you may be due for one sooner or later.

          No sense taking the engine apart twice - but thatís just me.
          1988 M3
          2012 335is
          1993 Civic Si

          Comment


          • #6
            Yes from that back story it looks like you should bite the bullet and do it all now. Rings will be well worn for sure. You should have seen the difference in ring gap between my old rings (230k miles) and a new set. Old were close to 1mm gap, new were spot on to 0.3mm as per spec.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mcubed91 View Post
              Almost 200,000 miles. I don't know the compression numbers, but it feels fine.
              It started with getting oil pan, valve cover, transmission leaks fixed. I said can you change the chain tensioner, it's rattling quite a bit on startup.
              They took off the oil pan and showed me how loose the timing chain was. Decided to change the chain.
              They took off the timing chain cover and... the chain guides were worn. They said I should replace them.
              And they said I needed new camshaft soon, they are pitted, Markus took care of that.
              The cause of all this, is oil level. I let the oil level get to low. Well, I can't change that now.
              Two weeks later, they said the parts are in.
              But they can't get the lower timing chain rail out or installed correctly without taking the cylinder head off. There is a post here that says it. So I told them to go ahead.
              They said once the head is off, he will let me know about a complete rebuild.

              They are Auburn Foreign Car. Lance Richert recommended AFC. Lance is president? of PNW E30 club. He hold the E30 Picnic each year. June 23th Tacoma Washington. Should be about 40 M3s there and about 200 E30s.
              Just going back to this, when they took the oil pan off, did they show you the lower single row oil pump chain slack? This is supposed to be loose. 10mm freeplay. It would actually be hard to find any play in the double row timing chain for the cams. Especially if just taking the oil pan off.

              It is by-the-by, you should consider a full rebuild anyway, but I find it a little underhanded they showed you the oil pump chain and said "Look, it's loose, you need a new timing chain".
              I can show my brand new build oil pump chain and say it's loose too... To spec. If the oil pump chain is too loose (13mm+) you can just shim it up to return to spec.

              Comment


              • #8
                When he new lower timing chain tensioner shoe is replaced, just a reminder that the new shoe is not supplied with the o-rings that fit in the shoe bore. It needs them for the shoe to get oil from the pin.

                Comment


                • #9
                  So the least I should do is: main and rod bearings and piston rings?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    At 200K, I can pretty much guarantee the bores are no longer round and every rubber piece in the engine has turned hard, so a full rebuild is a very good step as others have suggested. Pitted cams are a common problem, but generally not due to low oil level but more to contamination in the oil.
                    Ron ///Man

                    • '91 Gr-A Former CiBiEmme / Ravaglia - Sold
                    • '90 M3 Faux EVOII Alpineweiss 36K Orig Owner - The Queen
                    • '91 M3 Faux EVO III Brilliantrot Euro Driveline - The Rocket
                    • '91 M3 Faux Gr-A Club Racer DM - The Alter EGO
                    • '89 M3 M3T / ITR Club Racer
                    • '94 Spec E36 - Eh....
                    • '09 M3 - Tarmac Terrorist
                    • '04 330Xi Sport 6 Speed - Snowmobile
                    • '07 530 Xi - Highway Star
                    • http://www.imwcarparts.com/e30-m3-parts.htm


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yes, I am having all the rubber pieces, hoses, belts, engine and transmission mounts, center flex, shocks, shock mounts replaced.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What everyone else said...absolutely false economy at this point not to do a complete rebuild. If all the time chain parts are being replaced, the engine is basically completely dismantled anyway.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Going to take the cylinder head and block to Johnnie's Machine Shop at Autosport Seattle. What's another 3 shares of Amazon...
                          The plan was to fix all my toys and retire. I might have to work a few more months...
                          What next? new pistons and crankshaft? valves, springs... I am not planning to. I will see what Johnnie says.
                          I ordered the oem Sachs Clutch.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Pistons and crank should be fine. Need new rings and bearings as per a stand rebuild, but bores should be measured and examined to determine if just a rering and hone is acceptable. Crank should also be assessed. Can be ground 1 size under if crank is scored.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Johnnie says I need new pistons. 10.0:1 first oversized. Does anyone, know anyone that might have something available?

                              Comment

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