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Your Recommendations/Replacement Parts while Cylinder head is off

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  • Ron ///Man
    replied
    At 200K, I can pretty much guarantee the bores are no longer round and every rubber piece in the engine has turned hard, so a full rebuild is a very good step as others have suggested. Pitted cams are a common problem, but generally not due to low oil level but more to contamination in the oil.

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  • mcubed91
    replied
    So the least I should do is: main and rod bearings and piston rings?

    Leave a comment:


  • JimK
    replied
    When he new lower timing chain tensioner shoe is replaced, just a reminder that the new shoe is not supplied with the o-rings that fit in the shoe bore. It needs them for the shoe to get oil from the pin.

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  • basketcase
    replied
    Originally posted by mcubed91 View Post
    Almost 200,000 miles. I don't know the compression numbers, but it feels fine.
    It started with getting oil pan, valve cover, transmission leaks fixed. I said can you change the chain tensioner, it's rattling quite a bit on startup.
    They took off the oil pan and showed me how loose the timing chain was. Decided to change the chain.
    They took off the timing chain cover and... the chain guides were worn. They said I should replace them.
    And they said I needed new camshaft soon, they are pitted, Markus took care of that.
    The cause of all this, is oil level. I let the oil level get to low. Well, I can't change that now.
    Two weeks later, they said the parts are in.
    But they can't get the lower timing chain rail out or installed correctly without taking the cylinder head off. There is a post here that says it. So I told them to go ahead.
    They said once the head is off, he will let me know about a complete rebuild.

    They are Auburn Foreign Car. Lance Richert recommended AFC. Lance is president? of PNW E30 club. He hold the E30 Picnic each year. June 23th Tacoma Washington. Should be about 40 M3s there and about 200 E30s.
    Just going back to this, when they took the oil pan off, did they show you the lower single row oil pump chain slack? This is supposed to be loose. 10mm freeplay. It would actually be hard to find any play in the double row timing chain for the cams. Especially if just taking the oil pan off.

    It is by-the-by, you should consider a full rebuild anyway, but I find it a little underhanded they showed you the oil pump chain and said "Look, it's loose, you need a new timing chain".
    I can show my brand new build oil pump chain and say it's loose too... To spec. If the oil pump chain is too loose (13mm+) you can just shim it up to return to spec.

    Leave a comment:


  • basketcase
    replied
    Yes from that back story it looks like you should bite the bullet and do it all now. Rings will be well worn for sure. You should have seen the difference in ring gap between my old rings (230k miles) and a new set. Old were close to 1mm gap, new were spot on to 0.3mm as per spec.

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve88M3
    replied
    Honestly at this point a rebuild seems like a good investment. Given the unknown compression numbers and oil issues and mileage, you may be due for one sooner or later.

    No sense taking the engine apart twice - but thatís just me.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcubed91
    replied
    Almost 200,000 miles. I don't know the compression numbers, but it feels fine.
    It started with getting oil pan, valve cover, transmission leaks fixed. I said can you change the chain tensioner, it's rattling quite a bit on startup.
    They took off the oil pan and showed me how loose the timing chain was. Decided to change the chain.
    They took off the timing chain cover and... the chain guides were worn. They said I should replace them.
    And they said I needed new camshaft soon, they are pitted, Markus took care of that.
    The cause of all this, is oil level. I let the oil level get to low. Well, I can't change that now.
    Two weeks later, they said the parts are in.
    But they can't get the lower timing chain rail out or installed correctly without taking the cylinder head off. There is a post here that says it. So I told them to go ahead.
    They said once the head is off, he will let me know about a complete rebuild.

    They are Auburn Foreign Car. Lance Richert recommended AFC. Lance is president? of PNW E30 club. He hold the E30 Picnic each year. June 23th Tacoma Washington. Should be about 40 M3s there and about 200 E30s.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron ///Man
    replied
    What's the specifics on your engine like # of miles, leakdown / compression numbers?? In my eyes, timing components should be replaced about the same time when the cylinders are starting to get out of round, and bearings are starting to show signs of wear. IOW, maybe it's time for a complete rebuild? What's making you want to replace the timing components???

    Leave a comment:


  • basketcase
    replied
    I would definitely have the head sent out to be reconditioned. May be obvious but seen many slap a head back on without getting it serviced by a machine shop.

    Other than that, hoses, clamps, all fluids and filters, plugs, and the rest would be on a case by case basis. Get them to remove dowels in block and run the deck over with a new sharpening stone.

    Check the oil restrictor is in place. If you are doing lower guides, I guess you will have oil pan off too? You could replace big end bearing, hone cylinders and fit new rings if they feel comfortable doing in car? I did my number 1 cylinder as the cylinder was corroded.

    Leave a comment:


  • Your Recommendations/Replacement Parts while Cylinder head is off

    I have to replace my Timing Chain, guides, and rails. The Lower timing chain rail will need the cylinder head taken off.
    So while the cylinder head is off, what should I replace? I am not doing the work, it's at a shop.

    I appreciate your inputs.
    thx ed
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