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As these cars age, what are important parts that need changing for safety

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  • As these cars age, what are important parts that need changing for safety

    Hey guys,
    I'm wondering what items need to be looked at or rebuilt etc in these cars as they age.
    The background is that in 2007 i was turbo'ing my m3 and purchased some 70's beetle my friend recommended buying to use temporarily to move parts around for the m3.
    Long story short, i was driving at redline of 2nd gear when the traffic stopped, and suddenly i had no brakes, and it didn't have a working emergency brake so i ended up rear ending a car.
    It was kind of horrific to press the brake pedal and it just not do anything at all. Turned out that the pedal assembly came loose.
    Anyways since then i wonder about the m3, it's now roughly the same age as the beetle was.
    I've checked the brake pedal assembly on the m3, over-all it seems a lot more tough than the beetle was, but i did find a couple years ago a clip on the brake pedal fell out and the rod it held was going out, caught it in time and put the rod all the way back in with the clip and put some silicon glue so that it doesnt come out. So it's definitely something everyone should take a look at.
    Also a few years ago, a brake line burst suddenly, luckily it happened while the brakes were being tested at the emissions testing place.

    I wonder though what other stuff can go wrong. From a safety perspective, what are the stuff that a 30+ year old car like ours need to be rebuilt or looked at from time to time to ensure safety. Thanks.

    I'll update the thread with this list as more input is added

    Stuff that needs to be checked/replaced as m3 ages
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    -Brake lines
    -Brake pedal assembly, hinges, clips, attachments
    e30 m3; euro S50B32 twin-turbo'd

  • #2
    One area with known issues that could be dangerous if it fails is the front control arms / subframe. The ball joints on the front control arms can break. It's debated whether this is from age, a one-time bad manufacturing run, or poor installation (over torqued), but either way if they're of unknown age they should be replaced. For the subframe, check for cracks where the control arms attach and where the subframe attaches to the chassis.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the input Mick!
      I'll be checking the control arm balljoints/bushings and subframe for sure. I was just thinking, is the brake master cylinder also a failure point that could potentially wreck havoc?
      I read they usually go somewhere between 60,000 and 200,000miles (roughly 90,000km to 320,000km). So i guess that would be worth replacing preventatively as well?
      If a master cylinder does go bad (and leaks i guess?), does one usually completely lose braking power or it just lessens the braking power and you have to push the pedal more to get the same effect? What about the slave cylinders going bad/leaking?
      Anything else anyone can think of that's potentially dangerous on these cars or any old cars that should be looked at or replaced as a precaution? Thanks
      e30 m3; euro S50B32 twin-turbo'd

      Comment


      • #4
        all the rubber gas lines. if original, they are long past done.

        heater core and hoses. heater core end is plastic that will dry up and get brittle. you don't want warm coolant on your leg or carpet....

        eventually i will start a thread on the pages and pages of stuff i have spent the last year replacing on my 88. it only has 39k miles and was well kept, but the more 30+ year old stuff i replaced, the more i found that needed replacing because it was, old..dried...brittle..etc. plastic, rubber and grease are NOT forever....no matter what the mileage.
        75 M2
        88 M3

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by liquidtension View Post
          Thanks for the input Mick!
          I'll be checking the control arm balljoints/bushings and subframe for sure. I was just thinking, is the brake master cylinder also a failure point that could potentially wreck havoc?
          I read they usually go somewhere between 60,000 and 200,000miles (roughly 90,000km to 320,000km). So i guess that would be worth replacing preventatively as well?
          If a master cylinder does go bad (and leaks i guess?), does one usually completely lose braking power or it just lessens the braking power and you have to push the pedal more to get the same effect? What about the slave cylinders going bad/leaking?
          Anything else anyone can think of that's potentially dangerous on these cars or any old cars that should be looked at or replaced as a precaution? Thanks
          I haven't heard of a brake master suddenly failing. As you mentioned, when they begin to fail its usually because the seals leak and you get blow-by causing a soft/falling pedal. If you do decide to replace the master, a common upgrade is a 25mm master (from a 5 series I believe). Bimmerworld sells it as a kit which includes the brake line that will be needed as one of the fittings on the 25mm master is a larger diameter.

          https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/M...inder-Kit.html
          Last edited by Mick; 03-09-2020, 10:36 AM.

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          • #6
            That's great, thanks!
            e30 m3; euro S50B32 twin-turbo'd

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks mlytle, you should definitely get that thread running!
              I couldn't edit the main thread, so i'll just put the "running list" in this post instead

              Stuff to be checked/replaced on E30 M3 due to old age
              --------------------------------------------------------------------------
              -Brake lines
              -Brake pedal assembly needs to be inspected and clips that keep the rods and hinge from coming out confirmed there and in good condition (might put some silicon glue just in case)
              -Control arm ball joints can fail and crack, need replacement on unknown age ones
              -Subframe, look for cracks around the control arm mounting area and where the subframe attaches to the chassis and engine
              -Heater core can fail and could leak hot coolant over the feet.
              -Rubber fuel lines need replacement
              e30 m3; euro S50B32 twin-turbo'd

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by mlytle View Post
                all the rubber gas lines. if original, they are long past done.

                heater core and hoses. heater core end is plastic that will dry up and get brittle. you don't want warm coolant on your leg or carpet....

                eventually i will start a thread on the pages and pages of stuff i have spent the last year replacing on my 88. it only has 39k miles and was well kept, but the more 30+ year old stuff i replaced, the more i found that needed replacing because it was, old..dried...brittle..etc. plastic, rubber and grease are NOT forever....no matter what the mileage.
                This is so true.

                People become obsessed with mileage, but on a 30 year old car it really only matters for bragging rights. After decades pass, a car with only five miles could still be in pretty poor condition.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by liquidtension View Post
                  --------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  -Brake lines
                  -Brake pedal assembly needs to be inspected and clips that keep the rods and hinge from coming out confirmed there and in good condition (might put some silicon glue just in case)
                  -Control arm ball joints can fail and crack, need replacement on unknown age ones
                  -Subframe, look for cracks around the control arm mounting area and where the subframe attaches to the chassis and engine
                  -Heater core can fail and could leak hot coolant over the feet.
                  -Rubber fuel lines need replacement
                  What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
                  Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by El KuRLy View Post

                    What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
                    Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.
                    I think this may depend on what's available at the time of your purchase. I know for a certain time frame the radiator was NLA. I'm not sure about now, but there are other maintenance parts that will be hard to find or source. The oil pump was another example of such.
                    1989 E30 M3 Cabrio - Nogaro Sliver / Black - 1 of 786
                    1990 E30 M3 - Sterling Silver / Black
                    1991 E30 318is - Sterling / Black (Mtech II project)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by El KuRLy View Post

                      What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
                      Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.
                      No worries feel free to ask, it's what the thread's for.
                      Personally i can confirm the heater core is a definite must replace if old. I just remembered even though when mine went a while ago it didn't spill anything on my feet, however the whole front windshield immediately fogged up and i couldn't see anything. I'd imagine if that happens while driving on some mountain road or at speed it would be pretty disasterous.
                      Can't help with the brand unfortunately, i haven't replaced mine yet, i just removed it and plugged the water lines shut as a temporary fix.
                      It looks like post #32 has some info on the heater core here https://s14net.vbulletin.net/forum/s...lacement/page3
                      e30 m3; euro S50B32 twin-turbo'd

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Last night I just did guibo and centre bearing. Maybe not exactly safety related but having a guibo or centre bearing let go is not a nice feeling. Now I can drive the car hard knowing that part of the driveline is not going to fail (unless my cheap new centre bearing turns out faulty, I used a URO part for $30 instead of $300 for a BMW branded part.)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by basketcase View Post
                          Last night I just did guibo and centre bearing. Maybe not exactly safety related but having a guibo or centre bearing let go is not a nice feeling. Now I can drive the car hard knowing that part of the driveline is not going to fail (unless my cheap new centre bearing turns out faulty, I used a URO part for $30 instead of $300 for a BMW branded part.)
                          what year is your M3? unfortunately those made before 9/87 use a different CB that is stupid expensive from BMW and not supported in the aftermarket that i was able to find. the later M3's have several reasonably priced options.
                          75 M2
                          88 M3

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mlytle View Post

                            what year is your M3? unfortunately those made before 9/87 use a different CB that is stupid expensive from BMW and not supported in the aftermarket that i was able to find. the later M3's have several reasonably priced options.
                            08-Sep-1987 Production date. The part number for the centre bearing cross referenced to a number of standard E30 models... 325i etc.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...723&series=E30

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