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As these cars age, what are important parts that need changing for safety

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  • mlytle
    replied
    Yep. About $300. For a bearing.

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  • basketcase
    replied
    Aw man that sucks. Was it circa $300? I priced up a genuine as I would prefer to fit genuine but $300 compared to $30, and as I was paying myself to do the labour, I went $30. If it failed I could try the Rein brand for around $40...

    Yes mine bolted straight in. The bearing slide on with barely any pressure, I would have preferred that to be a bit tighter but it was an INA bearing. I did damage a dust cap on removal and didn't refit that as it was too damaged.

    I have a complete spare driveshaft I might build up with new unis etc and swap in when I swap in my 2.5.

    For now it has put up with a really hard drive with no issues so happy to run with it as is.

    I'm just learning how far you can go with your driveshaft, there is a bunch of things you can do to them other than the centre bearing and guibo.

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  • mlytle
    replied
    Originally posted by basketcase View Post

    08-Sep-1987 Production date. The part number for the centre bearing cross referenced to a number of standard E30 models... 325i etc.
    Lucky you!!!!!!!!

    Here is the difference. New style on left, early style on right. Not interchangeable. I have an early car unfortunately.

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  • basketcase
    replied
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...723&series=E30

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  • basketcase
    replied
    Originally posted by mlytle View Post

    what year is your M3? unfortunately those made before 9/87 use a different CB that is stupid expensive from BMW and not supported in the aftermarket that i was able to find. the later M3's have several reasonably priced options.
    08-Sep-1987 Production date. The part number for the centre bearing cross referenced to a number of standard E30 models... 325i etc.

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  • mlytle
    replied
    Originally posted by basketcase View Post
    Last night I just did guibo and centre bearing. Maybe not exactly safety related but having a guibo or centre bearing let go is not a nice feeling. Now I can drive the car hard knowing that part of the driveline is not going to fail (unless my cheap new centre bearing turns out faulty, I used a URO part for $30 instead of $300 for a BMW branded part.)
    what year is your M3? unfortunately those made before 9/87 use a different CB that is stupid expensive from BMW and not supported in the aftermarket that i was able to find. the later M3's have several reasonably priced options.

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  • basketcase
    replied
    Last night I just did guibo and centre bearing. Maybe not exactly safety related but having a guibo or centre bearing let go is not a nice feeling. Now I can drive the car hard knowing that part of the driveline is not going to fail (unless my cheap new centre bearing turns out faulty, I used a URO part for $30 instead of $300 for a BMW branded part.)

    Leave a comment:


  • liquidtension
    replied
    Originally posted by El KuRLy View Post

    What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
    Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.
    No worries feel free to ask, it's what the thread's for.
    Personally i can confirm the heater core is a definite must replace if old. I just remembered even though when mine went a while ago it didn't spill anything on my feet, however the whole front windshield immediately fogged up and i couldn't see anything. I'd imagine if that happens while driving on some mountain road or at speed it would be pretty disasterous.
    Can't help with the brand unfortunately, i haven't replaced mine yet, i just removed it and plugged the water lines shut as a temporary fix.
    It looks like post #32 has some info on the heater core here https://s14net.vbulletin.net/forum/s...lacement/page3

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  • L James
    replied
    Originally posted by El KuRLy View Post

    What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
    Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.
    I think this may depend on what's available at the time of your purchase. I know for a certain time frame the radiator was NLA. I'm not sure about now, but there are other maintenance parts that will be hard to find or source. The oil pump was another example of such.

    Leave a comment:


  • El KuRLy
    replied
    Originally posted by liquidtension View Post
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    -Brake lines
    -Brake pedal assembly needs to be inspected and clips that keep the rods and hinge from coming out confirmed there and in good condition (might put some silicon glue just in case)
    -Control arm ball joints can fail and crack, need replacement on unknown age ones
    -Subframe, look for cracks around the control arm mounting area and where the subframe attaches to the chassis and engine
    -Heater core can fail and could leak hot coolant over the feet.
    -Rubber fuel lines need replacement
    What brand will be fine with each? I know Genuine BMW are best parts you can get, but some prices are seem just too high. I will be hopefully doing the heater core at the same time with my cooling overhaul. Over 150k and no issues, (knock on wood), just have replaced hoses and regular maintenance. I will probably also do the water pump (BMW, not Lasso) since I don't want to be left stranded.
    Is the Nissens radiator fine or should the Mishimoto is a better option? Sorry, not trying to gear this thread to brands but it's good to know what other options we have.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ironhead
    replied
    Originally posted by mlytle View Post
    all the rubber gas lines. if original, they are long past done.

    heater core and hoses. heater core end is plastic that will dry up and get brittle. you don't want warm coolant on your leg or carpet....

    eventually i will start a thread on the pages and pages of stuff i have spent the last year replacing on my 88. it only has 39k miles and was well kept, but the more 30+ year old stuff i replaced, the more i found that needed replacing because it was, old..dried...brittle..etc. plastic, rubber and grease are NOT forever....no matter what the mileage.
    This is so true.

    People become obsessed with mileage, but on a 30 year old car it really only matters for bragging rights. After decades pass, a car with only five miles could still be in pretty poor condition.

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  • liquidtension
    replied
    Thanks mlytle, you should definitely get that thread running!
    I couldn't edit the main thread, so i'll just put the "running list" in this post instead

    Stuff to be checked/replaced on E30 M3 due to old age
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    -Brake lines
    -Brake pedal assembly needs to be inspected and clips that keep the rods and hinge from coming out confirmed there and in good condition (might put some silicon glue just in case)
    -Control arm ball joints can fail and crack, need replacement on unknown age ones
    -Subframe, look for cracks around the control arm mounting area and where the subframe attaches to the chassis and engine
    -Heater core can fail and could leak hot coolant over the feet.
    -Rubber fuel lines need replacement

    Leave a comment:


  • liquidtension
    replied
    That's great, thanks!

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  • Mick
    replied
    Originally posted by liquidtension View Post
    Thanks for the input Mick!
    I'll be checking the control arm balljoints/bushings and subframe for sure. I was just thinking, is the brake master cylinder also a failure point that could potentially wreck havoc?
    I read they usually go somewhere between 60,000 and 200,000miles (roughly 90,000km to 320,000km). So i guess that would be worth replacing preventatively as well?
    If a master cylinder does go bad (and leaks i guess?), does one usually completely lose braking power or it just lessens the braking power and you have to push the pedal more to get the same effect? What about the slave cylinders going bad/leaking?
    Anything else anyone can think of that's potentially dangerous on these cars or any old cars that should be looked at or replaced as a precaution? Thanks
    I haven't heard of a brake master suddenly failing. As you mentioned, when they begin to fail its usually because the seals leak and you get blow-by causing a soft/falling pedal. If you do decide to replace the master, a common upgrade is a 25mm master (from a 5 series I believe). Bimmerworld sells it as a kit which includes the brake line that will be needed as one of the fittings on the 25mm master is a larger diameter.

    https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/M...inder-Kit.html
    Last edited by Mick; 03-09-2020, 10:36 AM.

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  • mlytle
    replied
    all the rubber gas lines. if original, they are long past done.

    heater core and hoses. heater core end is plastic that will dry up and get brittle. you don't want warm coolant on your leg or carpet....

    eventually i will start a thread on the pages and pages of stuff i have spent the last year replacing on my 88. it only has 39k miles and was well kept, but the more 30+ year old stuff i replaced, the more i found that needed replacing because it was, old..dried...brittle..etc. plastic, rubber and grease are NOT forever....no matter what the mileage.

    Leave a comment:

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