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Let talk E36 suspension on the E30 M3

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  • HANDBLT
    replied
    Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post

    craz azn was talking about the E46 *upright*, not control arms.
    the taper on the spindle for the tie rod end? that's why they mention you have to use an E90 inner and an E36 outer tie rod.

    T

    Leave a comment:


  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by HANDBLT View Post

    from what I can find, you use the E90 inner and the E36 outer tie rods.



    "Swapping in E46 control arms into your E30 or E36 significantly increases negative camber by widening the track width and also gives you more clearance for more steering angle. Condor's CNC machined control arm brackets are made from solid steel and are fitted with a solid hex-shaped bushing. Designed for the street or the track, they hold the control arm steady and eliminate "shimmy" caused by stock bushings. They sharpen steering and improve overall driving feel. Comparable to the NLA Treehouse E36 & E30 Eyeball Arms.

    Easiest install of any aftermarket solution
    Allow clearance for E30 M50 Conversion exhaust
    Street Approved, marginal increase in NVH
    Easy Installation, no need for a press
    CNC machined steel construction
    Solid design without the maintenance of spherical bearings
    Heavy-Duty replaceable UHMW insert. Don't be misinformed, UHMW is the best material for these inserts. Delrin is not self-lubricating and will crack and degrade over time.
    Powder coated white for corrosion resistance
    Improve caster with M3 offset geometry
    Keep proper steering geometry under high loads
    Made in the U.S.A.
    Fitment:
    E30 84-91 3 Series
    E36 92-98 3 series & Z3

    Note that you will need to use E36 outer tie rods and E90 inner tie rods when installing in an E30 or E36

    Be sure to measure your control arms to determine if you need 21mm or 23mm. Meyle makes a standard e46 control arm and a Heavy Duty control arm. Most HD arms have a hex that is larger in size (23mm). Lifetime Warranty"


    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...dor-speed-shop

    T
    craz azn was talking about the E46 *upright*, not control arms.

    Leave a comment:


  • HANDBLT
    replied
    Originally posted by craz azn View Post
    Keep in mind that if you try to use an E46 suspension upright, you will need an alternate solution for the tie rod as well, as the taper is a different size than e30/e36 size.
    from what I can find, you use the E90 inner and the E36 outer tie rods.



    "Swapping in E46 control arms into your E30 or E36 significantly increases negative camber by widening the track width and also gives you more clearance for more steering angle. Condor's CNC machined control arm brackets are made from solid steel and are fitted with a solid hex-shaped bushing. Designed for the street or the track, they hold the control arm steady and eliminate "shimmy" caused by stock bushings. They sharpen steering and improve overall driving feel. Comparable to the NLA Treehouse E36 & E30 Eyeball Arms.

    Easiest install of any aftermarket solution
    Allow clearance for E30 M50 Conversion exhaust
    Street Approved, marginal increase in NVH
    Easy Installation, no need for a press
    CNC machined steel construction
    Solid design without the maintenance of spherical bearings
    Heavy-Duty replaceable UHMW insert. Don't be misinformed, UHMW is the best material for these inserts. Delrin is not self-lubricating and will crack and degrade over time.
    Powder coated white for corrosion resistance
    Improve caster with M3 offset geometry
    Keep proper steering geometry under high loads
    Made in the U.S.A.
    Fitment:
    E30 84-91 3 Series
    E36 92-98 3 series & Z3

    Note that you will need to use E36 outer tie rods and E90 inner tie rods when installing in an E30 or E36

    Be sure to measure your control arms to determine if you need 21mm or 23mm. Meyle makes a standard e46 control arm and a Heavy Duty control arm. Most HD arms have a hex that is larger in size (23mm). Lifetime Warranty"


    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...dor-speed-shop

    T

    Leave a comment:


  • craz azn
    replied
    Keep in mind that if you try to use an E46 suspension upright, you will need an alternate solution for the tie rod as well, as the taper is a different size than e30/e36 size.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gregg
    replied
    And I'm not saying this will work, but the E46 damper clamp at the knuckle is appealing for flexibility. E36 M3 dampers are sealed, so new housings, or cut and bolt from bottom (Koni).

    Leave a comment:


  • Gregg
    replied
    There's a high level compare / contrast here.

    https://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us...ension-Basics/

    E46 or older uses the single pivot (at knuckle) so derivative of E30 attachment points (and potentially kinematics), while later use the dual pivot (older 5/6/7 series, for example).

    An example of previous effort by others,

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...rm-in-an-E30-)

    Leave a comment:


  • HANDBLT
    replied
    Originally posted by Gregg View Post
    I don't think there's much difference on E36 (M, non-M) for front knuckles, but realOEM could confirm. You already know about the track width change.

    Have you considered E46 or newer? The clamp style upright would be more flexible for dampers (and newer is typically better supported in aftermarket).
    Ive never heard anyone talk about E46 or newer on the E30 but condor does have control arm bushings that work with using E46 control arms on E30/E36, just not sure about the uprights and what they would do to the geometry.

    T

    Leave a comment:


  • Gregg
    replied
    I don't think there's much difference on E36 (M, non-M) for front knuckles, but realOEM could confirm. You already know about the track width change.

    Have you considered E46 or newer? The clamp style upright would be more flexible for dampers (and newer is typically better supported in aftermarket).

    Leave a comment:


  • HANDBLT
    started a topic Let talk E36 suspension on the E30 M3

    Let talk E36 suspension on the E30 M3

    Didn't want to derail the other thread with suspension questions but I am thinking of moving away from the GrpN coilovers to a modern setup next winter. I am wondering what the best base (front uprights, control arms....etc) are for this to have the best geometry. I know that it widens the track in the front, so can this be remedied with using M coupe rear?

    I have AP brakes all the way around so I would keep the rotors and discs and only need to get new brackets and bells.

    Not looking for this damper is better than that damper just yet, just the best foundation of E36 items to start from.

    T
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