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  • On borrowed time?

    I got an UOA from Blackstone labs and am quite bummed by the results. The motor is stock with a TMS baffle and has only 70xxx miles and 2700 miles on the M1 15w50 with an oem filter.

    IRON 26ppm
    COPPER 192ppm
    LEAD 139ppm

    I realize that the rod bearing are going to need to be done asap. My question is with the IRON reading should I be worried about a scored crank?

    While I am in there should I replace the oil pump? If so US or E3?

    Looks like I am missing a DE on the 20-21 at WGI :sosad:
    -kevin

  • #2
    How is the compression and leakdown? If they're fine I wouldn;t worry about it.

    You can drop the pan and replace the lower bearings for cheap insurance.
    sigpic
    2010 BMW Club Racing E30 M3 Touring Car Champion
    2011, 2013 SCCA Runoffs Super Touring Under 3.0L Bronze Medalist
    2011 SCCA Jim Fitzgerald Rookie of the Year
    2012 SCCA Northeast Divisional STU Champion
    2015 SCCA Runoffs STU Polesitter

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    • #3
      I think you really have to look at a trend to really know what's going on. If your copper amount is constant then it must be there because of some other factor, not wearing bearings. That being said I would drive it easy until the next oil analysis
      "It is needless to say that self-propelling vehicles, like other machines, will never do as much for one who does not understand them as for one who does."

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      • #4
        Thanks Alpine, I guess I will take it easy for a while. Just bummed about the DE.
        -kevin

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        • #5
          Kevin,

          Did you inspect what came out of the oil filter? When I trashed my rod bearings, my oil was full of copper flecks. They could be seen with a flash light but not felt when rubbed between the fingers. IMHO, all S14er's should do this at every oil change.

          -Dietrich

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          • #6
            if you are suprised because you have low mileage, dont necessarily be suprised.
            when its time to do bearings depends heavily on use and how the car was treated, not just
            mileage. lots of cold starts, reving to fast before warm, and one of the biggest killers:
            starting up after months of storage without building oil pressure first.

            people get so hung up on high rpm. high rpm is ok, regardless
            of what the local chevy budies might say. they dont have
            the same motor. the largest amount of wear comes within the
            initial moments of start. you can change your oil every
            500 miles and it wont change this fact.

            John

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            • #7
              Dietrich,

              Unfortunately, I did not get to look at only my oil. I drained it into the oil my brother had just drained from his car and also the tranny fluid from my fathers car. :rolleyes:

              I am going to change it again in a few hundred more miles and take a very close look at it. I only have about 600 on it currently. Was your crank trashed already when you had flecks of copper in your oil?

              John,

              I am not necessarily shocked by the low milage. I understand many consider rod bearings to be a wear item. I guess I wil have to see what the next oil change brings.
              -kevin

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              • #8
                i cant speak for Dietrich experience, but I can tell you that when it get to the point where you
                can see the copper flakes, the rods are often out of round. this damages the crank journal
                in the process. the result is that you need new rods and crank or have to refurbish them.
                you can slap in new rod bearings and in street usage they might last another 20k, but under
                track use they will degrade very quickly and you are back to square one.
                it doesnt have to be this way, but it often is.
                John

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                • #9
                  Kevin,

                  I believe my crank was scored. It looked like it to me, but I'm not an engine builder. I rebuilt to a 2.5 anyway. Also, my upper bearing on cylinder four came out in 3 pieces. It wasn't pretty, but oddly, the car ran fine - just had what was thought to be valve clatter - but it may have been rod knock. If you have copper flecks, John's right, things are bad.

                  -Dietrich

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                  • #10
                    ......so.. how do you build oil presure before start up?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by daniel porras
                      ......so.. how do you build oil presure before start up?

                      by hand

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by daniel porras
                        ......so.. how do you build oil presure before start up?
                        Accusump. VAC motorsports can set you up with one.
                        sigpic
                        2010 BMW Club Racing E30 M3 Touring Car Champion
                        2011, 2013 SCCA Runoffs Super Touring Under 3.0L Bronze Medalist
                        2011 SCCA Jim Fitzgerald Rookie of the Year
                        2012 SCCA Northeast Divisional STU Champion
                        2015 SCCA Runoffs STU Polesitter

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                        • #13
                          will the accusump build pressure after car has sat for a long period of time?

                          PS: the traditional method (when a car has
                          sat some time) is to pull out the spark plugs,
                          pull main relay, and turn the motor over
                          on the starter until oi light goes out.

                          John
                          Last edited by John; 06-09-2005, 10:47 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by John
                            PS: the traditional method (when a car has
                            sat some time) is to pull out the spark plugs,
                            pull main relay, and turn the motor over
                            on the starter until oi light goes out.
                            Is it just as safe/effective to crank the engine with the CODE set?

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                            • #15
                              Using the code feature does the same thing - stops fuel injection. You should pull the plugs b/c it will allow the engine to spin at approx 2k rpm without the forces on the crank associated with compression. This also builds pressure more quickly.

                              -Dietrich

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