No announcement yet.

Urgent question for those with slotted rear subframes...

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Urgent question for those with slotted rear subframes...

    I have my car apart right now to weld in IE's slotted toe and camber brackets on my subframe. When I got the kit, I measured the slots to see what kind of effect they will have, and after doing the math was surprised to find that one bracket would only produce about +/- 0.6 degrees of camber change.

    The problem is that I have Kmac eccentric bushings in the trailing arms right now that have reduced camber to -2.5 degrees, and once I remove these, the IE kit will cause the alignment to go to more negative camber again. I wanted less!:grr:

    The only solution I see is to weld the new IE brackets on so that they are biased in opposing directions from the beginning, but that requires that the brackets are attached "higher up" and overhanging the factory trailing arm mounts. Seems a little risky...

    What have others done? Ideally, I'd like to be at -1.5 to -1.75 degrees of camber.

    Could I be missing something in the math?
    Info: cam-bolt bracket has +/- 0.15" of adjustment, the trailing arm mounts are spaced about 13" apart, resulting in +/- 0.66 degrees of adjustment, not taking into account the 15 degree trailing arm sweep angle

    Hope this makes sense! Help!


    "Objects in mirror are losing..."

  • #2
    Nope, you are right. They will hang over a bit. They have to in order to reduce the camber. I have this on my car works fine. Track it often. Just make sure you are tig welding them.

    "Never lift"


    • #3
      Hope I am not thread stealing...but this is a related topic.

      I am about to install the Kmac adjustable trailing arm bushings. This product has received mixed reviews, but it was apparently the best of that genre I could find.

      Since they will be complicated to grease once installed, my plan is to drill holes through the trailing arm and the bushings and install grease fittings. This will of course only be done once I have the bushing adjusted where I want it. The plan is two fold. first, I want to be able to grease them. Second, it should keep the bushing from rotating out of adjustment, which I have heard is an "issue" with the Kmac bushings.

      Basically I want to adjust them to provide minimal negative camber (I have too much now and I am lowering the car) while still keeping the toe in control, then lock them in place with the grease fittings.

      For those of you with actual experience with these parts, does this plan sound viable?
      Last edited by Ironhead; 06-27-2005, 03:30 AM.


      • #4
        Hey Ironhead,

        I think it's viable, but with some reservations...

        There's probably room to add a grease fitting thru the subframe bracket into the metal center of the Kmacs. On the side where the trailing arm is rotated "out" of the mounting bracket, the grease fitting will likely only "notch" the bracket (see pics below)

        Reservation 1: The serrated edge of the Kmac really eats into the subframe bracket until the bolt is loose. I think this damage will happen even if the grease fitting locks it from rotating. Torque will not be maintained on the bolt...

        Reservation 2: My Kmac's have their bolthole offset 1/8". Thus they remove, at most, 1 degree of camber. If you want to do some toe-setting, then the amount of camber correction will be even less. I ended up at -2.5 degrees, still too much tire wear...



        "Objects in mirror are losing..."


        • #5

          Your math is correct.

          I'm not familiar with the IE parts, and I'm assuming that you have an adjuster for each pivot bracket: one is set for toe and the other set for camber, on each side.

          When I installed eccentric adjusters I biased them according to the original alignment to be able to have the adjustment range more centered around the alignment I wanted.

          If the brackets hang off a bit it shouldn't be a problem if they are welded securely.




          • #6
            Thanks for the input jordantii and rongineer!

            You're right about the IE stuff, rongineer, there are machined "U-brackets" with cambolts for each pivot mount. I'll bias the inner camber ones upward, and weld on the toe (outer) brackets slightly lower than stock. From CADing it out, I should end up with -1.4 deg camber...

            Thanks again for the toe-bar info, rongineer. I'm making a set now and plan to post some pics here when done.


            "Objects in mirror are losing..."


            • #7
              Hi Anders,

              Did you ever take any photos after install? I ask because my bolts seem to be too short. The eccentric bolt does not make it through the nut by about 2mm.