48mm throttle plate screws.

[M3STU]

Hi,

Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the cross head counter-sunk M4 screws that clamp the throttle butterflies to the throttle shaft?- The part is not listed with BMW.

(The head of a standard Unbrako counter-sunk screw is too big).

Thanks

M3 STU

[GraemeD]

maybe try a hobby shop that sells RC airplanes? I have luck there in the past for small metric hardware.

[PhiloM5]

Took my throttles apart to rebuild the cross bar bearings and need to replace the screws. Like Stu said.., the head is a lot narrower the a standard m4 oval head.

[PhiloM5]

Maybe we can go to the manufacturer. Who makes our throttle bodies ?

[BMG]

Bump. Anyone found the correct TB plate screws ?

[xworks]

Would be worth dropping a quick email to http://www.jenvey.co.uk/
in the Uk if you know the rough measurements of the butteryfly screws.
I've found them very helpful in the past.

[enigmaticdream]

A machine shop might be able to help. I had a shop shave off 1mm in diameter assembly bolts due to the uber odd size, M7, 32mm length, but 12mm diameter. All M7 bolts I found were 13mm diameter. Worked perfected.

[BMG]

Good idea on contacting Jenvey, Xworks. Their site lists lots of bits and spares, just no screws, but will ask.

I did think about either getting someone to turn down a few screws to be the correct size or just trying it myself,but looks awkward given their size. But the correct screws have a small cut in the base which seems to flare them open ( someone feel free to add the technical term ) a little bit and make them a tight fit, so even used ones require a bit of effort to remove and wouldn't come loose. But yeah, a bit of Loctite on some cut-down screws would do the same thing, just a bit annoying when you think a replacement screws should be no problem.

[Whee30M3]

Maybe a place that repairs carbs has a suitable screw? Or maybe a manufacturer of throttle bodies, like TWM Induction?

[spdracrm3]

. But the correct screws have a small cut in the base which seems to flare them open ( someone feel free to add the technical term ) a little bit and make them a tight fit, so even used ones require a bit of effort to remove and wouldn't come loose..

that cut is actually where the screw ends are "staked" to keep them from coming loose (in the days before loctitie), which is also why they are hard to get out as your pulling the flared staked end thru the smaller hole diameter

[M-tinker]

Maybe check with companies that bore out stock TBs to 48mm ones, VAC, E-ticket? They may be willing to sell the screws as spare parts.

GL