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Heater Core Replacement

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  • #46
    Let me get this right so if I have a AC I should have the aluminum pipes which is the easiest one to take off right? also when taking the heater core unit out, will it hit my steering column? or is it just going to come off without any problems?

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    • #47
      I'm not sure if AC vs no AC is what determines the aluminum pipes vs plastic but it's really easy to check before you go and order the parts.

      Remove the center console and take a peek. The koala CD has an accurate walkthrough on removing the center console. All the fasteners are obvious except for one hidden screw below the HVAC panel.

      I only have experience with the aluminum pipes and yes when I did mine the heater core slid out all the way easily.

      -chris
      1988 M3
      2007 Lotus Exige S

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      • #48
        Originally posted by christsay View Post
        ohhh I think the job is much more involved for the plastic pipes.

        post at r3vlimited

        Does your car also not have AC? I think you might not be able to remove/install the heater core without hitting the steering column which leaves you two options, both painful.

        Remove dash and the whole heater box assembly
        or
        Drop the steering column and pedal box.

        -chris
        Yep, looks like you are correct. I have the plastic piping, and just had the dreaded bad news call from the mechanic. "....yeah...ummm, sorry mate but its going to take a fair bit longer then we originally thought" They are talking about dropping the pedal box :-( Oh well...has to be done !

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        • #49
          So I get the car back all fixed - they had to drop the pedal box. Short drive later and the fluid warning light comes on. Take it back and turns out the clutch master cylinder is now leaking ( the piston bit that sits up from the clutch pedal) There is no doubt it is linked to the fact they dropped the pedal box, but their explanation is that unfortunatly with the age of the car when these things get moved around during repairs there is an element of risk other things might fail - especially with the piston in these. They are a decent mechanic, and have been good to me, but just wanting to check I am not being taken for a ride as they are expecting me to pay for the extra repairs.

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          • #50
            Thread revival!

            How did you wind up finishing the job, archie? I'm thinking about tackling my HC now that I've read all of these reviews. I've been scared to try it until now.

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            • #51
              I just ordered my heater core, does anybody have a list of part numbers for the o-rings and the pipes etc that everybody seems to replace? the previous owner just routed the line back to the block and completely blocked off the hc, if someone has a list with the valve and lines, orings etc, it would be a huge huge huge help!

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              • #52
                anyone? any other recommendations other than the orings and the actual core replacement? as far as the recal valve etc in engine bay??

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                • #53
                  realoem is your friend:
                  http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...14&hg=64&fg=15

                  I think this is what I ordered, but you double check the pn's.
                  heater in hose 64211370807
                  heater out hose 64211381541
                  recall tstat 64118391926
                  Heater Core 64118391363
                  Heater Core Valve 64111386707
                  o-rings 64118377824 - need 3 of these
                  square nuts 07119921431 - these are easy to lose
                  rubber grommet in firewall, very optional 64111370809
                  aluminum pipes, these go through the above grommet: 64111370931 64111370932
                  1988 M3
                  2007 Lotus Exige S

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                  • #54
                    I replaced my heater core and valve today.
                    Thanks for the write ups in this thread by other members, I was quite prepared for this project. Thankyou all!!
                    However, it probably took me more than half the day to do the lot, but I am probably not as mechanical trained as others on this forum.
                    I drained the coolant from the radiator first which was ok, then when I unplugged the tubes at the firewall (which was a PITA to get to), coolant missed the tray and just went everywhere over my garage floor.
                    Sucking out coolant from those aluminum tubes first at the firewall helped, as there was not much mess inside the cabin later.

                    I advise NOT to take the tubes grommet out from the firewall unless you absolutely have to. Took more than half an hour and much swearing before I got it back in.
                    Putting it all back together was definitely easier than dissembling the lot.
                    Squeezing the radiator coolant tube for more effective filling as recommended was useful too.

                    Those aluminum tubes get really hot if all is working, just be careful. It was too late for my finger tips.

                    I actually used 'green' o-ring from Pelican - part 64111468436 - that fit pretty good, dabbed with a bit of engine oil.

                    Put in a new accelerator cable while I am there, the last one was put in upside down thru the firewall.

                    One fun day!
                    Gavin
                    87' Lachssilber

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