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  • #31
    Bringing, your rich running problem could be a bad barometric pressure sensor. I had those problems and that's what it was for me.

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    • #32
      The issue went away for almost a week. I replaced the plug wires, replaced the coil, and replaced both the main relays. I thought I was good to go, but sure enough, it came back this morning. I had to go run an errand from work and on my way to the location it was hesitating and cutting, on the way home, it was fine. I did find that above 4K rpm my temp gauge goes haywire. It starts bouncing from peg to peg, but settles down if I lift off. I've been chasing funky issues with the fuel gauge (rarely reads full) and the temp gauge twitching (but not swinging peg to peg like it was today.) I've replaced the SI board, with no long term fix (fixes things for a couple weeks then they come back.) I'm pretty sure this is unrelated, but maybe?

      Will
      '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis :taz
      '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project :uhoh
      '88 M3

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      • #33
        Originally posted by RAD2LTR View Post
        The issue went away for almost a week. I replaced the plug wires, replaced the coil, and replaced both the main relays. I thought I was good to go, but sure enough, it came back this morning. I had to go run an errand from work and on my way to the location it was hesitating and cutting, on the way home, it was fine. I did find that above 4K rpm my temp gauge goes haywire. It starts bouncing from peg to peg, but settles down if I lift off. I've been chasing funky issues with the fuel gauge (rarely reads full) and the temp gauge twitching (but not swinging peg to peg like it was today.) I've replaced the SI board, with no long term fix (fixes things for a couple weeks then they come back.) I'm pretty sure this is unrelated, but maybe?

        Will
        I think I may have found the problem with my situation. You may come across the same problem. My orange relay in the firewall behind the coolant reservoir has two prongs burnt on it. Will get another and report back findings.

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        • RAD2LTR
          RAD2LTR commented
          Editing a comment
          Isn't the orange one the purge relay for the charcoal canister?

          My trip home from work was uneventful, not a single hiccup or stutter. I really hate electronic controlled cars.

          Will

      • #34
        Nope...fuel pump relay.

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        • #35
          Also my mint green relay is hot while the others are cool. (I do keep the car on a trickle charger) Although it visibly looks fine I will replace that one too.

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          • #36
            For my specific situation all signs are now pointing to a bad ecu. It is possibly fried from having a bunch of failure points being still original (icv, bel housing sensors, tps were all original). Replaced them as well as my relays. Only spark in cylinder 3. Tested the original coil, cap and rotor and new tested with same results. Opened up the ecu, looked fine to the naked eye, but upon inspection of the lowest board (by removing the two remaining flatheads in the ecu box), I found either a ton of rust or oxidized copper between a majority of the solder joints. I amazed this car was running at all. This was also a replacement ecu previous owner installed prior to my purchase of the vehicle back in 2016. I was also getting an inexplicable power draw despite installing new grounds throughout the vehicle. Car has been stored indoors and hasn’t been winter driven. So my guess is the used ecu was bad but good enough to keep the vehicle running for 3 years. New ecu comes Monday.

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            • #37
              I was gone for a week, came home, jumped in the car and the first thing that I noticed was that my water temp gauge pegged the moment I turned the key (Huh?) Turned it off, gauge went back to full cold, switch on, pegged hot. Hmm, ok. Went to actually start the car, and it cranked, and cranked, and cranked sputtered for a little bit and died. Tried again, same thing, tried again, it ran for a little longer, but again died. I could smell fuel in the exhaust, so I'm pretty sure its getting fuel, but the spark is iffy. Finally got it to stay running and went off to find dinner, it hesitated a few times but then cleared up and was fine. After 5 min or so of driving, the temp gauge started bouncing between full hot and full cold, then settled at the proper temp. Is there anything in common with the temp gauge and the ignition system? I'm guessing no, but I found it interesting that I had a new issue on top of another issue. The car has always been pretty easy to start, but Monday night, not so much. It hiccuped once yesterday but was fine, and has been fine today.

              Will
              '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis :taz
              '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project :uhoh
              '88 M3

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              • #38
                Hi Will,
                Have you got anything planned to track down the problem.
                I would be great for diagnosis if you could borrow a DME for a week.

                I would not discount newer parts causing a problem vs 32 year old parts, I had intermittent non starting last year and turned out to be the main DME relay causing the problem worst thing was I had replaced the original one in 2013 because I read on the forum they cause problems.

                E30 M3 1987
                Mini Clubman GT
                BMW E36 323 Msport
                Toyota Corona
                KTM 200EXC
                Honda CB50 (1979)

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                • RAD2LTR
                  RAD2LTR commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I'm going to look under the dash this afternoon, apparently there is a ground somewhere near the steering column. My temp gauge has gone full stupid, fanning back and forth from full hot to full cold. Apparently the ground for it is the one near the steering column. I didn't know there was one there, but that could be the culprit.

                  The engine hasn't been acting up lately, it might be related to that ground however. I've checked everything else aside from another DME (I don't know anyone with one I can borrow for a month or so.) I'm hoping to spend some time with the car this weekend as I have nothing else planned. (Needs an oil change) I'm half tempted to order the flywheel sensors and put those in just for good measure. They are most likely original to the car.

                  Will

              • #39
                So I have checked all the grounds and all are in good shape, tight and clean. I fixed the temp sensor by putting the old one back in. Haven't had an issue from there. The new issue is that after pulling my cluster and cleaning all the contacts, my speedo now reads 10 mph low (was off by 3 mph) and on my way to work on Tuesday, the car died 3 times and took a good 5 min to get to restart each time.

                As I cranked the engine over, it would act like it was trying to start and run, but as soon as I let off the key (rotated back to run) it would die. It did that every time it died, then it fired off and I was able to drive the rest of the way to work, and home no issue. It was like nothing was amiss. When it was running the exhaust did smell like it was running lean, so possibly a fuel issue. I'm still leaning toward the pulse generators being suspect however.

                I went looking for new ones and it looks as if the p/n is nla. Do I have the right p/n? 12141708619? If so, is there another p/n that will interchange? If not, what should I be looking for. I see one p/n that is called a crank sensor that apparently attaches to the bottom part of the timing cover, but an S14 doesn't have that (does it?)

                Thanks,
                Will
                '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis :taz
                '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project :uhoh
                '88 M3

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                • #40
                  Will,

                  RM European claims to have 13 in stock.

                  https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...619-MFG14.aspx

                  I recently ordered a clutch assembly from them and it was shipped quickly and priced right. Assuming 12141708619 is what you need I'd give RM European a try.

                  Mark
                  1990 M3

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                  • RAD2LTR
                    RAD2LTR commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks. I was one number off, I needed the XXX18 rather than the XXX19 (The 19 is the short one that goes to the top of the bell housing and only transmits to the service plug. They did have the XXX18, so I bought two.

                    I also have my DME sitting here so I figured I'd resolder everything just to be sure.

                    Will

                • #41
                  I opened the cover of the DME last night. Didn't smell anything burt, and didn't see any burnt traces on the board. I looked at all the solder joints on the back side of the board and they all look good. That said, I can't for the life of me remember how to split the boards apart so see the front sides. I know I did it once before to install the IIgo chip, but I can't remember how I managed to split the two boards. Do I just pinch the plastic posts and push them back through the holes, or do I also need to unscrew something? I looked all over for the thread that I used years ago to open this thing up last, but I couldn't find it. (Lots of dead links.) How do I open this thing?

                  Thanks,
                  Will
                  '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis :taz
                  '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project :uhoh
                  '88 M3

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                  • #42
                    So I guess this is happening a lot of us, mine falls on it's face at WOT, if you stay in it it'll start bucking, let off and it'll run normal again, I'll start chasing all these same things too..

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                    • RAD2LTR
                      RAD2LTR commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I think yours is either a collapsing hose from the AFM to the plenum, or not enough fuel.

                      Mine started as a random misfire that has become a full engine cut that doesn't want to refire willingly, but only when its below 70 degrees ambient air temp, and then, only sometimes. My car will willingly pull 8200 rpm at any time, but may die at steady throttle at 3000 rpm in any gear.

                      Will

                  • #43
                    So I played around with mine today, changed out the fuel pressure regulator, while I was doing that I noticed one of the injectors clips wasn't holding the injectors to the fuel rail, and also saw that the vac. Fitting on the back of the throttles was loose ( I just epoxied it again over the winter, so didn't think to look at it before) also swapped out the magnecore wires for another set of plug wires I had lying around, I never liked that the magnecore didn't snap on the plugs or distributor.... Took it for a ride and it never missed a beat, hopefully that's all it was... Fingers crossed!

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                    • #44
                      Over the weekend I had time to replace both pulse generators for the flywheel, the fuel pump and the fuel filter in an effort to eliminate the car cutting out and/or totally dying. I also looked the DME over with high magnification to see if there were any cracked traces or broken solder joints. I found nothing, and smelled nothing in there. I put everything together late sunday night and drove it home with no issues. Jumped in the car yesterday morning to go to work, ambient air temp was 61 degrees, and no issues. Got in the car this morning and it didn't really want to start, but I got it going and it seemed fine. Air temp, 55 degrees. about 1/4 mile down the road the engine cut, just a big stumble, but caught again and I continued on my way. Got to the first stop sign to make a left turn across a busy intersection and half way across, it cut out again. It then caught and off I went. It stumbled another couple times and then was fine for the rest of the drive to work.

                      The ICV buzzes, all the grounds look good, fuel pump (bosch 044) and filter is good, pulse generators are new, plug wires are new, plugs are new, the coil is a different one from when I started having the issue (so likely not the coil.) I'm stumped, what am I missing? The only thing I can come up with is there being an issue with the DME, but I can't see what it might be.

                      Will
                      '69 Datsun 2000 Roadster vintage race car (Street driven on a regular basis :taz
                      '59 Alfa Romeo 101 Sprint (HUGE project :uhoh
                      '88 M3

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                      • #45
                        that is spark. There is either a loose/dirty connection on the coil or a ground somewhere braking connection,. or the output on pin #1 of the ECU ( the black shielded wire) is going and coming,

                        T

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