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Shifter Buzz, Do I need to drop the exhaust?

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  • Shifter Buzz, Do I need to drop the exhaust?

    I found an article on renewing the various bits in the gearshift that wear and lead to the dreaded buzz, I've read somewhere that you need to drop the exhaust to get access but I've also read that you can do it without. Can anyone who has done the job comment? It looks like with the exhaust out of the way it will take 10 mins but taking the exhaust apart and putting it back together gives me the 'fear'. I've got pretty small hands so if I could do it in a hour and leave the exhaust alone I'd be a lot happier.

  • #2
    I managed to switch out the whole shifter setup without removing the exhaust. The rear carrier arm mount is a PITA though with the exhaust in the way. I needed some extensions to reach back there, and even then it took a second set of hands to line everything up for reassembly.

    But definitly doable w/o removing the exhaust.

    Comment


    • #3
      While you don't "need" to drop the exhaust, I think it is definitely the way to go. Unbolting the driveshaft helps also.

      The problem is that there is very little access to the shift linkage area with the exhaust and driveshaft in place. Some of the parts require some leverage to be replaced (like the foam pad on the end of the selector shaft) and with the exhaust there it is a huge PITA.

      I think the time required to lower the exhaust would save you at least five times that much time swearing and scraping up your hands.

      Sometimes a course of action that sounds simpler and easy actually ends up being much harder.

      Comment


      • #4
        I replaced EVERY part in there will out dropping the exhaust, I even did the sponge on the selctor rod, that is a PITA.

        If you are going to take the time, make sure you get all the parts! It's really worth doing it all and right the first time!!

        Do not click
        At least it's German

        Comment


        • #5
          I just bought a UUC ssk, What else should I change while i'm in there?
          Part numbers would be great!

          Thanks

          elefantsupply.com

          Comment


          • #6
            EVOIIIM3,

            About to rebuild my stock shifter. Will the buzz really go away after a rebuild? I'm thinking the buzz must be related to the engine mounts as the engine is the source of the vibration. Any opinions??????
            2000 Porsche Boxster S - Daily Driver
            1995 Porsche 993
            2001 BMW 530iA Sport (hers)
            2004 Ford F-150 FX4
            2005 KTM 450EXC (More fun than all of the above)

            Gone:

            1988 BMW M3 2.5 EVOIII Replica
            1985 BMW M635CSI
            2001 BMW M3
            1988 BMW 325is (E30 M3 springs, steering, Konis, etc) - my favorite BMW - missed.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by S14E30
              I just bought a UUC ssk, What else should I change while i'm in there?
              Part numbers would be great!

              Thanks
              I got this from the links section,,,,,,,,

              25-Gear Shift
              23 41 1 466 134 shift rod pin
              25 11 1 205 870 bottom shift lever
              25 11 1 220 198 Shift selector rod joint
              25 11 1 220 221 flat washer
              25 11 1 220 228 upper rubber cap
              25 11 1 220 379 spring clips (2)
              25 11 1 220 439 Shift selector rod spacer
              25 11 1 220 600 bottom shift lever mount shift bushing
              25 11 1 220 778 upper shift lever
              25 11 1 220 832 front shifter support bushing
              25 11 2 226 585 bushing for end of coupler
              25 11 2 231 562 Shift knob Illuminated with integrated boot
              25 11 2 232 508 Shift knob leather button
              25 11 2 233 140 Shift Knob Suede

              I think these to..
              23-Manual Transmission
              23 41 1 466 112 snap ring
              23 41 1 466 134 dowel pin for coupler
              23 41 1 666 133 rubber ring
              It's the piece that attaches the selector rod to the trans, and has a small foam piece in side, it's a PITA!
              Last edited by EVOIIIM3; 09-10-2003, 12:29 PM.

              Do not click
              At least it's German

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jmarch
                EVOIIIM3,

                About to rebuild my stock shifter. Will the buzz really go away after a rebuild? I'm thinking the buzz must be related to the engine mounts as the engine is the source of the vibration. Any opinions??????
                I also changed my trans mounts out, that helped a lot, I have not had shifter bizz for over 2 years now. But yes, it should not buzz after if you replace ALL the parts including the lever.

                Do not click
                At least it's German

                Comment


                • #9
                  I would definitely reccomend replacing the shift rod (or is that shit rod) that goes from the bottom of the selector rod (the one the knob is on) to the transmission. It's shaped like this: [ Essentially a aluminum rod (18 inches?) with a pin at each end. Mine just snapped, at the tranny end, leaving me stranded in neutral... sucky. I managed to crawl under the car and use a screwdriver to get the tranny in 4th gear and drive the 12 miles home, YAHOO. That was fun, and certainly good for the clutch :(

                  I don't know what the part number is, but moral of the story is replace that too. It think most short-shift kits include it, in fact I'm quite sure.

                  *sigh* I guess it's time for me to rebuild my shifter too eh?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Buy the weighted selector rod from Rogue Engineering, it definitely seemed to do the trick in my car. I replaced the shifter linkage and upgraded to the Rogue Engineering SSK with weighted selector rod over a year ago and my car is butta smoov

                    No rattles, no buzzing, and short concise shift throws everytime. I'd do it the same way if I did it again, no brainer. Rogue has the product, it's the best one in my opinion.

                    David

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      David,

                      I know it's hard to quantify, but how much notchier is Rogue shifter than stock. I have a hard time heel and toeing with a notchy shifter. My first priority is smoothness.

                      Thanks,
                      Joe
                      2000 Porsche Boxster S - Daily Driver
                      1995 Porsche 993
                      2001 BMW 530iA Sport (hers)
                      2004 Ford F-150 FX4
                      2005 KTM 450EXC (More fun than all of the above)

                      Gone:

                      1988 BMW M3 2.5 EVOIII Replica
                      1985 BMW M635CSI
                      2001 BMW M3
                      1988 BMW 325is (E30 M3 springs, steering, Konis, etc) - my favorite BMW - missed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Joe, this is a tough one. I'll put it to you like this.

                        I've driven cars with the UUC kit, the autopower kit (or maybe autosolutions or something like that), and a Z3 lever replacing the factory one.

                        The Z3 lever was definitely the notchiest, then the autopower, then the UUC. In my opinion, none of them come close to the smoothness of the Rogue kit. I think that pretty much all of these kits are the same, but the Rogue kit offers you a weighted selector rod (WSR), which effectively reduces shifting effort. I have the WSR on my car as well.

                        When the car is cold, especially on cold ambient temperature mornings, the shifting takes some effort, but once the fluid in the tranny starts to warm up it gets very smooth. Truthfully I never really notice it ever being notchy, I think it's pretty smooth. Plus, I haven't had shifter buzz in about 1.5 years. For me, I didn't want a SSK because I'd rather have a smooth longer shift than an overly notchy short one. I was convinced to give it a try and I've never looked back. The throws are very short and concise.

                        David

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 1990m3
                          Buy the weighted selector rod from Rogue Engineering, it definitely seemed to do the trick in my car. I replaced the shifter linkage and upgraded to the Rogue Engineering SSK with weighted selector rod over a year ago and my car is butta smoov

                          No rattles, no buzzing, and short concise shift throws everytime. I'd do it the same way if I did it again, no brainer. Rogue has the product, it's the best one in my opinion.

                          David
                          Rogue's WSR can be USED IN ANY KIT! It's just the selector rod, so any option you choose it will benfit.

                          I was thinking of using it in my UUC kit. I have to say the UUC kit is of a higher quality then most other kits. The early Rogue kit was just a modfyed Z3 shifter.

                          Do not click
                          At least it's German

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            In order to drop the driveshaft, do you need the thin-walled 30mm socket that BavAuto sells? What else should I be replacing while I'm down there? I'm thinking about getting the Rogue kit, and I want to make sure I do everything while I'm down there. Tranny mounts etc??

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              to remove the driveshaft I've been successful spinning it off with two large channel locks. That 30mm wrench would probably be nice too though

                              Dave

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