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Aluminum radiator....please look

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  • Aluminum radiator....please look

    I just wanted to know if any of you guys know a good place to get an aluminum radiator for under $500. I live in Glendale, CA( 7 miles north of L.A) so...the closer the better. I checked Fluidyne, but I don't think they do E30 M3's any more.

    While we're on the topic of cooling upgrades, is it true there is a 75 degree option thermostat for these beasts? I could have sworn I saw an M3 with one on Ebay recently.

    Hummmmmmmm
    -Ara

    DEATH TO GARAGE QUEENS

  • #2
    From the SIG archives...


    "Water wetter, 318ti low temp aux fan switch, working aux fan balast
    resistor,good radiator, healthy fan/fanclutch are all you need for
    good insurance. For extra insurance you can get my 72deg C T/stat. It takes all of about 60 seconds to roast a S-14 once it's in the red and your foot is still in it.
    ////MrMCar"


    And for an aluminum radiator, here is an old post, also from the SIG archives. It may be of some use.

    "The C&R Racing aluminum racing radiator for E30 M3s is finally ready. I ran the prototype in my 2.5L E30 M3 race car at Putnam Park last weekend. It worked flawlessly. You can find photos of it on this web page: http://www.spgmotorsports.com/

    It is manufactured to my specs by C&R Racing here in Indianapolis. C&R supplies radiators to about 85% of the NASCAR teams and also supplies to many of the CART and IRL team. The radiator is fully welded aluminum -- no epoxy. It has a two-row core made by Visteon, the supplier of cores for all of C&R's racing radiators.

    It fits in the OEM mounts (two rubber mounts at the bottom and one at the top). I had them add a drain cock in the center of the bottom for easy draining. The top bleed nipple is a CNC aluminum part made by Goodridge. The top and bottom fittings are standard 1/8 NPT, so if you ever have to replace them, you can find parts anywhere. Each radiator is pressure-tested before it leaves their facility. For more info on C&R Racing, take a look at: http://www.crracing.com/

    With this radiator and the stock electric fan, you shouldn't need to use the mechanical engine fan, even at idle in traffic. If you want to remove the OEM electrical fan and use a "puller" type fan on the engine side of the radiator, C&R recommends a Spal fan that is only about 2 inches thick and pulls 920 cfm. Spal part number is 30100398. Price is $75 (retail is $99.95). It can be mounted using "zip tie" mounts (commonly sold at auto parts stores for about $5), or a more stable solution is for C&R to weld custom, flat aluminum brackets to the radiator with mounting points that match the Spal fan. The extra cost for the custom brackets is $50.

    The radiator will be identical to the one in the photos, except that the top mounting bracket will be cut down about 1/4 inch (so that it doesn't touch the underside of the hood) and will be moved to the right 1/4 inch to center the mount hole. You have two options for the top mount. You can have the bracket drilled to accept the OEM rubber mount (7/8 inch hole) or you can get the radiator with the bracket un-drilled so that you can use your own rubber bushing (similar to the bushing used to support the intake plenum). The radiator in the photos has been mounted using a rubber bushing with studs on both ends. It's a simple way to mount the top and gives more support than the OEM mount. It also allows you to decide how far away from the frame you want the radiator to sit, depending on the thickness of bushing you use.

    Since this radiator is thicker than the OEM one, when you install the
    radiator, you will need to shorten the top radiator hose about 1/2
    inch. The rest of the installation requires only removing the old radiator and putting this one in its place.

    The group buy price for the radiator is $525, which includes packaging in a special box with foam packing made for the radiator."

    Notice!: The above message and it's content is not current and may contain inaccurate information.

    Hope this helps,
    Jake Larsen

    Comment


    • #3
      really, me and a few other board members run just a stock radiator with no clutch fan, 1991 318is fan switch, water wetter with an aux fan and the right amount of collant and water, and none of us have had any problems with the setup. it runs just like stock, if not better. so i dont really see the point of a 600 dollar radiator.
      "Just road, seat, ASS; THE END!" - Jeremy Clarkson
      "If you had a choice between a million dollars and world peace, what would you get for your E30 M3?" - ItsNotTheNissan
      onfirelabs.com twitter.com/suga_shane

      Comment


      • #4
        anyone have the p/n for 318 fan switch?

        thanks
        -Han

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mrsha007
          so i dont really see the point of a 600 dollar radiator.
          I agree for the most part. For some it's a 'bling bling' doohickey to add to your engine bay. It looks and does the part.

          For others that are putting out big numbers in a hot climate, it may just be insurance.

          For me, I'd like to have one that incorporated an oil cooler as well. Oil to water coolers tend to help heat the oil up a bit faster from cold.

          I don't know about you but I'd be itch'n to lay into the loud pedal as soon as I cranked her up, but I didn't. No... I waited 30 long minutes for that thing to warm up. Now if I could shorten that with a nice looking functional piece of eye candy, AND give myself a little added protection, I'd be all for it.

          Cheers,
          Jake Larsen

          Comment


          • #6
            I've tracked my 2.5 with out a engien fan, lower fan switch and stock everything else.

            It never moves past the half mark even in 110 track temp!! Now the oil on the other hand starts getting really warm! I'm going to add the M5 oil cooler this winter.

            In the end, even if you have a hotter running engine, you should not need a bigger Radiator, the stock one works so well.

            All the cooling problems I have EVER seen on any BMW has been do to work/broken parts (!) Not outside temp.

            More watter, less coolant, watterwetter.

            Do not click
            At least it's German

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