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  • Brake Rotor Removal

    I have a bone stock '91 M3. I am trying to remove the rotors in order to install new springs and shocks but I've run into an unexpected problem. I can't get the rotor off. I've removed the caliper and set screw but I still can't get it off. I removed the center dust cap and found a retaining nut on the hub. Does this need to come off in order to remove the rotor? If so, where do I get the socket to remove the massive nut?

    I'd really appreciate any advice you guys can give me.

  • #2
    haven't done brakes in about two years, but if i remember correctly all you need to do is remove the caliper and the rotor set screw like you have and then the rotor should come off. I remember having to take mallet and hammer on it a few times, but eventually I got it to break off from the the axle and I was in business.

    Good luck, someone post if I'm wrong

    Dave

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    • #3
      You do not need to remove the nut to get the rotor loose, that holds the axle assembly together!
      Hit that sucker with a hammer a few times as I am sure that you have everything loose that needs to be. I'd try hitting it (not with destructive force, but rather persuasive force ) in a circular pattern on the brake surface. You probably have some rust holding the works together.

      FYI: you can get that socket from Sears for about $20.

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      • #4
        Knock the poop out of it Like he said)! I hate when they get stuck.


        Disclaimer: Remember, I know absolutely nothing, but it doesn't prevent me from having an opinion or suggestion. :

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        • #5
          Thats all fine 'n dandy...but why are you taking the brakes apart to do shocks and springs? Look on the bottom of the strut...there are 4 small bolts going upward into the strut that you take out, then remove the top 3 nuts in the engine compartment and you're done since you already have the calipers off. The strut comes out with the rotor and wheel bearing attatched. Leave the rotors alone.
          Last edited by AdamF 88iS; 09-29-2003, 06:56 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by AdamF 88iS
            Thats all fine 'n dandy...but why are you taking the brakes apart to do shocks and springs? Look on the bottom of the strut...there are 4 small bolts going upward into the strut that you take out, then remove the top 3 nuts in the engine compartment and you're done since you already have the calipers off. The strut comes out with the rotor and wheel bearing attatched. Leave the rotors alone.
            Oh, guess I should read the posts more :idea:
            Yep, do as AdamF says! Just remove the 4 bolts and the top bearing nuts and you should be all set. Just remember to use a jack or spring compressor before you undo those bottom bolts!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by AdamF 88iS
              Thats all fine 'n dandy...but why are you taking the brakes apart to do shocks and springs? Look on the bottom of the strut...there are 4 small bolts going upward into the strut that you take out, then remove the top 3 nuts in the engine compartment and you're done since you already have the calipers off. The strut comes out with the rotor and wheel bearing attatched. Leave the rotors alone.
              I prefer to take 'em off. It's a lot of weight and fuss when throw'n the strut around trying to change out those inserts. Besides, in the process of removing the strut, one set screw and few gentle 'taps' makes life a bit easier. As you said, the caliper comes off anyway. This also prevents accidently screw'n up the disc as you um... man handle the assembly.

              Cheers,
              Jake

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              • #8
                The metals have bonded together, it's not uncommon, often rotors bond to hubs and wheels bond to rotors. If you want to avoid having the materials bond in the future put a bit of anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor before reinstalling. It's also helpful to put a bit on the mating surfaces of your wheels and rotors.

                I've been doing this for 5 years now and have never had any trouble removing a rotor or wheel, it makes wheel and rotor changes go a lot smoother.

                You can buy anti-seize paste at any auto parts store for about $5.

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                • #9
                  Hey guys, thanks for the help. I got the rotor off with a little persuation from the hammer. I felt like a fool not being able to get the rotor off- I've been working on cars for years and never had a problem. I'm definately going to use anti-seize when I put it back together.

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                  • #10
                    When removing the rear rotors be sure the emergency brake is off otherwise you can't remove the rotors.
                    Mel Abrahams
                    Abrahams Motorsport
                    www.abrahamsmotorsport.com
                    Direct contact:[email protected]

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mel A
                      When removing the rear rotors be sure the emergency brake is off otherwise you can't remove the rotors.
                      Ha! I've made that mistake. :idea:
                      Last edited by Mick; 10-01-2003, 12:36 PM.

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                      • #12
                        And make sure no one hits the brake pedal... didn't do it on a car, but managed to on my mountain bike w/discs. That sucked trying to get the caliper to open... dumb dumb dumb. They actually supplied me with a plastic shim to jam in there to prevent such a dumbass manuever, might be a good idea to do something in that spirit for our rides when the calipers are off? Hmm... never thought about that.
                        Last edited by Beau; 10-01-2003, 02:37 PM.

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