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Rebuild Cost - So Far $13K (not including car)

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  • Rebuild Cost - So Far $13K (not including car)

    Over the past year, I have spent a lot of money and time on rebuilding my M3. It has been an amazing learning experience. Here is a list of the work that has been done to my 1987 M3 over the past year. So far I am at over $13K just for parts and labor, not including the cost of the car, shipping, items that I bought and didn't use, etc. This amount also does not include rebuilding the engine, gearbox, diff, rust repair and paint. Please note that labor is not itemized for each item.



    Cheers, Daniel.
    Last edited by BeastPower; 12-24-2007, 10:39 PM.
    - 1987 M3 (e30)
    -- BeastPower Motorsports: www.beastpower.com
    - -Eisenmann Exhaust Systems: www.eisenmann.us

  • #2
    Damn thing must have been a POS when you got it
    Jason

    '88 Zinno M3
    '78 IHC Scout II
    '99 Ducati 996

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    • #3
      How did that POR-15 work for you? I've heard good things about it, and I'm going to use it myself when I remove the subframe and address some underbody areas.
      2003 Mitsu EVO VIII - 2.0L / 600+whp
      1988 BMW M3 turbo - Work in progress. . .
      1986 SVO Mustang - Work in progress. . .

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      • #4
        Good job on the list, I've got a similar list (minus the part numbers) but it pains me to see how much I've spent....not to mention how much more needs to be spent.
        Terrance

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Ted B View Post
          How did that POR-15 work for you? I've heard good things about it, and I'm going to use it myself when I remove the subframe and address some underbody areas.

          POR-15 is freakin amazing stuff! You just brush it on, yet once dry it is as hard and solvent proof as powder coating!

          Beastpower, you NEVER add up what it cost! What the hell is wrong with you? You must not have a wife......:idea:

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          • #6
            Wow, you got a great price on the Supersprint stuff!

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            • #7
              I have a 1" folder since Feb 07. Better not open it up. I am better off not knowing......... What ever it is, its well worth it!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Ironhead View Post
                POR-15 is freakin amazing stuff! You just brush it on, yet once dry it is as hard and solvent proof as powder coating!

                Beastpower, you NEVER add up what it cost! What the hell is wrong with you? You must not have a wife......:idea:
                no doubt! :cycle: Heck.. there are times when *I* don't even want to know! LOL...
                Mark Williams
                Dallas, TX

                Nothing says "welcome to the neighborhood" like a search... oh wait... looks like they are all gone! :rastajake:

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Man, POR-15 is a must for restorations! Old VW and Porsche restorers have used it for years. Mdeia blast the metal, fix what needs fixing then treat it... Oh yeah... I ritually burn receipts after a year.
                  Rich!

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                  • #10
                    I had a similar spreadsheet of every little thing I spend on the car besides gas, oil, and inspections. It took me a long time to start it and I was meticulous about adding to it...then my hard drive died and it's gone forever.
                    "It is needless to say that self-propelling vehicles, like other machines, will never do as much for one who does not understand them as for one who does."

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Ted B View Post
                      How did that POR-15 work for you? I've heard good things about it, and I'm going to use it myself when I remove the subframe and address some underbody areas.
                      Being a member of the IHC Scout community I've had experience with many rust repair and treatment products. Scouts are known for the body's rusting through.

                      POR-15 is a good product and many of the guys on the Binder forums have used it with good results. I liked it as well, but they require a few steps to get it properly applied. I wasn't too happy with the ease of application. Eastwood makes a product called "rust encapsulator" that is truely a one step process. My co-worker uses it on his '68 Camaro that he's been restoring and has nothing but good things to say about it. When I do the bodywork on my truck, that's the route I'll be taking. There's too much to describe here, but the Eastwood stuff is really the way to go.
                      Jason

                      '88 Zinno M3
                      '78 IHC Scout II
                      '99 Ducati 996

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                      • #12
                        POR-15 does have some strange issues....

                        I would not recommend buying it in large quantity containers, unless you are going to use it all at once. You will find, after two or three uses, that it is impossible, not difficult, IMPOSSIBLE, to get the can open again. That is true even if you put cling wrap under the lid, as they recommend.

                        One time I thought I would be clever, and transfered the POR-15 to a glass canning jar. I thought it would be easier to reuse that way. Well, the stuff dried solid, hard as a rock, practically overnight. I have no idea why, but clearly it was related to the new container....

                        I also often bake small metal parts after painting them, to speed the hard drying of the paint. Well, POR-15 gets hot in the oven, but DOES NOT DRY in that environment. Apparently moisture is somehow key to it hardening.....

                        What I use it most often for, is to seal breaches in the paint (like after drilling holes) as a guarantee to prevent rust from starting. I also use it to paint assorted small metal parts that I don't feel like waiting to get powder coated. I hate regular spray can paint, because it is not durable at all. POR-15 is incredible. It sticks and dries unbelieveable tough, and once dry is immune to any solvent I know of (including acetone/brake cleaner). While still wet it can be cleaned up with brake cleaner though....

                        POR-15 is sort of tricky to spray (for me), but I can get a pretty darn good finish by brushing it on.....

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                        • #13
                          Is it possible that air is one of the reactive components to making this stuff dry? That may be why it dries so quick.

                          Looks like a product that's good to keep handy. I will definitely look further into it.

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                          • #14
                            I used POR-15 on my CJ resto and I liked it....I remember that the brake master leaked and i guess it was no match for it cause it bubbled that stuff right off after the POR was on month or so on the firewall
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by M3DTMPWR View Post
                              I used POR-15 on my CJ resto and I liked it....I remember that the brake master leaked and i guess it was no match for it cause it bubbled that stuff right off after the POR was on month or so on the firewall

                              Really? Interesting...

                              I painted my caliper brackets in POR-15, and brake fluid does not effect it at all there. Might be a question time and amount of fluid. Also, I use ATE blue which is supposedly more gentle on paint....

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