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  • #16
    Originally posted by EVOIIIM3
    Tb's used? There usually $2000+
    Oil squirters are closer to $1500
    Pistons are around $900
    Rods, stock? Pauter, $800
    What kind of valve work? $500 is no much.

    The block will come with stock pistons, but the CR is to low for good power and those cams.

    Don't forget.....
    Timing chain assembly...
    Header
    Fuel Injectors
    EVO AFM/MAF?
    Chip
    Adjustable cam gears
    Oil pump
    All new gaskets
    Water pump
    etc....

    It's the little things that bite your wallet in the ass!
    mike, TB's go for pretty good prices here and there now. mariano just pick some up for cheap. i already ahve the cam gears. i dont need the evo afm, i have a link unit already. headers im not too worried about for now, im more focusing in on buy stuff that i need to take the head off for. i over looked the timing chain and the two pumps. that will put the motor work into the 20k range . but i also get a FATTTT discount. i will ahve to wait and see. 500 for the valve work i ment the valves themselves, the head work i have calculated for about 1600 from apex. i am only at about 85k on the motor, so i ahve a good while to go until i need any kind of work done, so it gives me a while to save up and collect parts. BTW, i ahve found rods and pistons for about those prices.
    "Just road, seat, ASS; THE END!" - Jeremy Clarkson
    "If you had a choice between a million dollars and world peace, what would you get for your E30 M3?" - ItsNotTheNissan
    onfirelabs.com twitter.com/suga_shane

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    • #17
      Originally posted by mrsha007
      mike, TB's go for pretty good prices here and there now. mariano just pick some up for cheap. i already ahve the cam gears. i dont need the evo afm, i have a link unit already. headers im not too worried about for now, im more focusing in on buy stuff that i need to take the head off for. i over looked the timing chain and the two pumps. that will put the motor work into the 20k range . but i also get a FATTTT discount. i will ahve to wait and see. 500 for the valve work i ment the valves themselves, the head work i have calculated for about 1600 from apex. i am only at about 85k on the motor, so i ahve a good while to go until i need any kind of work done, so it gives me a while to save up and collect parts. BTW, i ahve found rods and pistons for about those prices.
      $20K? come on guys, you are letting other people do too much of the work.

      2.5chip 250
      airbox, 48's, grp a injectors 2500
      MAXX 800
      cams 800
      gears 400
      porting/seals/seats 500
      block 1500
      crank 900
      pistons 600
      gaskets/hoses/misc 800
      timing parts 500
      pumps 300

      $10,300.......... where is the other $10K? I have never understood the $20K engine number that is thrown around. Now if you are going insane on the head with all Grp A Stuff maybe, but not for a normal 275-300hp 2.5l.

      T

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      • #18
        Originally posted by AndrewT
        $40k?

        This one's easy. Forget the 993.

        Take $30k go down to the Mitsu dealer. Write 'em a check for an Evo8.

        Stop there, or...spend another $2-3k on exhaust and remapping, and you've got 375-400 reliable HP.

        It already has a momo steering wheel and Recaro Sports. 2-turns lock to lock on the steering rack.

        And AWD kicks @ss. Don't worry about the front driven wheels, this thing will rotate all day long.

        The suspension is remarkable. Honestly, If I wasn't going to develop parts for this car to market, I wouldn't touch a thing. It's that good.

        So you've got $6-7k left for beer and hookers.

        Andrew
        '88M3 300+hp/2100lbs
        '95 Projekt E36
        '01 F250 Powerstroke
        '02 Haulmark 24'er
        '03 Lancer Evo8
        '79 German 635CSi
        '95M3-US: parting
        Noted suggestion, however I enjoy having a team to root for. I follow F1 religiously and WRC as well. If I was to buy a rally-type car they would still need to compete - and Mitsu doesn't. Subaru on the other hand.

        The EVO VIII is a great car for the money but I think it's ugly, ugliest Evo ever in my opinion. The wing, the taillights, it's just ugly. That's the same reason I won't buy a 944, ugly. I know it doesn't matter what the car looks like, it's how it drives - but I want attractive cars in my driveway. Now a 6.5 TOMMI on the other hand. . .

        I've always wanted a 993 and an E30 M3 (as well as the M6 and E34 M5). The M3 seems to be the most reasonable at this stage of my life (25) and I just wanted to verify that with a 20k budget I can build a nice dedicated track car that will be a contender.

        I keep making additional payments on my E46 trying to pay her off as quickly as possible. Although I need to buy some new tires for the next autox season which starts in January, so that will hold me back for a minute.

        E30 M3s are a piece of history and you never read a bad review. I've arranged with a local guy to hopefully get a ride along in one soon and make sure that I'm headed down the right path. If it's not going to be an E30 M3, it's going to be an older P-Car. An STI is tempting, very tempting - but I'm not sure how reliable a modded turbo car will be in the long run after heavy track abuse - which is my sole intention.
        www.ubertechnik.com

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        • #19
          $20K? come on guys, you are letting other people do too much of the work.
          I think your price on head porting was low. I went the Turner Stage III route and paid $2500.

          You left out oil squirters, which the guy mentioned using, for about $1200.

          He will probably need an EVO block if he is using squirters, another $1800.

          While not strictly part of the rebuild, most people would install a new clutch...another $300 at least. Who can go without a lightweight flywheel?.....$500.

          Things are made cheaper if you stick with the stock header. I went the EVO III route, so then needed a new exhaust system to match the header flange. That whole thing was a $3000 adventure.

          Most people would be wise to do new engine/tranny mounts while everything is apart.....another $200 or so.

          I am not saying it is absolutely essential to wind up spending $20K, just that it is very easy. And to spend much less will involve some corner cutting.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by OPTIMO
            Noted suggestion, however I enjoy having a team to root for. I follow F1 religiously and WRC as well. If I was to buy a rally-type car they would still need to compete - and Mitsu doesn't. Subaru on the other hand.

            The EVO VIII is a great car for the money but I think it's ugly, ugliest Evo ever in my opinion. The wing, the taillights, it's just ugly. That's the same reason I won't buy a 944, ugly. I know it doesn't matter what the car looks like, it's how it drives - but I want attractive cars in my driveway. Now a 6.5 TOMMI on the other hand. . .

            I've always wanted a 993 and an E30 M3 (as well as the M6 and E34 M5). The M3 seems to be the most reasonable at this stage of my life (25) and I just wanted to verify that with a 20k budget I can build a nice dedicated track car that will be a contender.

            I keep making additional payments on my E46 trying to pay her off as quickly as possible. Although I need to buy some new tires for the next autox season which starts in January, so that will hold me back for a minute.

            E30 M3s are a piece of history and you never read a bad review. I've arranged with a local guy to hopefully get a ride along in one soon and make sure that I'm headed down the right path. If it's not going to be an E30 M3, it's going to be an older P-Car. An STI is tempting, very tempting - but I'm not sure how reliable a modded turbo car will be in the long run after heavy track abuse - which is my sole intention.
            All I have to say is go drive one

            The looks grow on you. They did me anyway.

            Andrew

            Comment


            • #21
              uh, my feelings on this are that...

              building the motor is not the most important part of building a competent track car. you could put a 700 horse motor in it and it would still drive you nuts if you didn't have the brakes and suspension to handle it first.

              that said, what do you plan to do with this? for real racing your gonna need cage, fuel cell, fire system, driving gear, and other stuff that eats up a lot of $$ just on safety stuff.

              if you really plan to be competitive a set of street springs and shocks aren't gonna cut it, your gonna want to run a set of JRZ or penksi, moton, something like that coilovers. these are $$$. your gonna need at least 2, maybe 3 or 4 sets of wheels and tires, different gear sets, different ring and pinions are the easiest to change... springs, wings, airdams, spares...

              i have a buddy who has almost 20k in spare parts for his fC, just in different wings, springs, gears, wheels, shocks, etc. these aren't "spares" they are neccessary to set the car up for different tracks.

              a stock motor will get you from turn a to turn b and let you have a lot of fun, if you want it to last a fresh one would be helpful. after that, put maybe some hot cams in it to increase the fun factor a bit, and spend your money on the neccessities first.

              for 20k total i would do this:

              cheap e30 m3

              gut it, plexi windows are a cheap place to save some weight and you don't have to worry about spending $$ on paint.

              buy a really good set of coilovers, FULLY adjustable... make sure the springs they use are a generic size so you can get different rates in case you get more serious later.

              buy a set of camber plates for a start, if you get more serious & as your setup skills increase think about adjustable A arms.

              buy a real drivers seat, and at least a 4 point cage. driving out of the stock seat and 3 point harness is a joke.

              for starters just buy a set of really good track pads, if you add more horsepower see about upgrading the brakes within the class rules

              buy an extra set of wheels with real track tires.

              freshen the motor

              that will cost 20 grand total probably, and will give you an e30 that is good to drive, balenced over all not just motor and no suspension...

              if you decided to spend more later, here are some suggestions

              power - always fun.

              aerodynamics... wings and things, helpfull at real tracks, but a real front airdam will kill your streetability in a heartbeat.

              go to a fully welded in cage, extend it through the firewall to the shock towers, weld tubing in between the two shock towers as a strut tower brace... much more effective.

              gears... regear tranny for track use, tall 1st gear for hairpins and short ratios thereafter... extra R&P's for different tracks... a real limited slip...

              the list goes on and on... but those are some basics.


              as for the evo 8...

              they aren't actually ALL that neutral, ours will rotate if you trail brake it like a madman, but pretty much no matter what you do on exit its gonna push, on long sweepers (like at vegas raceway the 270 degree sweeper) push like mad... the stock brake pads are garbage..

              ours put down 240.7 whp stock @ 5000 ft altitude 91 octane, 306 whp same day with 3" turbo back, blitz filter, and an apex'i afr...

              i'll let you know how it does next tim eat the track when we finish installing our new cusco rear sway, tien coilovers, chasis braces, and the extra set of enkie's with hoosiers...

              it would be faster if it was lighter and RWD only, the awd is unneccesary on the track.


              the stock suspension is ok, not great. the damping is very good, but the spring rates are low. there is a lot of bodyroll if you look at an action picture.

              an new evo set up as a weekend warrior track car like ours is, will probably still run you 40+ k


              if you have any more questions just email me [email protected] i can give you a better run down of what it would take for what levels of racing etc etc, i run formula atlantics in scca and shifter karts, my dad runs a gt3 cup car in pca.

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