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20000 miles on a 2.5, time to rering?

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  • 20000 miles on a 2.5, time to rering?

    well its been a little over 2 years and 20000 miles on my 2.5, just had a compression check and leak down test done here are the #:
    cylinder 1 230 psi/ held 90%
    cylinder 2 180 psi/ held 58%
    cylinder 3 200 psi/ held 74%
    cylinder 4 215 psi/ held 92%
    I dont know if maybe that ring never seated properly in cylinder 2 . The first thing my mechanic looked at was the valve clerances, he said that it may be possible that the vavles in cylinder 2 could be out of spec keeping the vavle off its seat therefore losing a lot of pressure. That was ruled out once he checked the clearances and they were all within the .0010-.0014 in spec when motors cold.
    So know hes taking off the head next to see whats going on. He thinks it's the rings, I don't know who makes the rings for the weisco piston in the Turner kit those are the ones I have. I heard that standard rings will leak about 8-10 % and the total sealed rings less than 1%. I'm going to go with the total sealed rings.Last time I went to the dyno my # were 212 hp and 180 trq, I guess those weren't so bad considering my cylinder 2 was not so good.

  • #2
    Let us know what you find out. I would be more than a little bummed if I had numbers like that on such a low mileage engine.

    Comment


    • #3
      :barf:

      JMHO...


      With 42% leak down your mechanic should have been able to easily guess where the problem was before tearing it apart.

      Hissing out the intake = intake valve.
      Hissing out the exhaust = exhaust valve.
      Hissing out the valve cover with the oil filler cap off = rings.
      Coolant rises (cap off) = head gasket or a crack of some kind.

      I realize that any one of these problems would require opening up the engine anyway but it's always good to identify the problem before you tear it apart. What if he gets it open and can't see anything obvious? He'll wish he took the time to find out exactly where it was leaking from before hand. Not only this, but it will help them estimate costs so you and they can plan accordingly.

      Sorry to hear about the bad luck. I hope this helps somewhat.

      Jake Larsen

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      • #4
        Ironhead I will post the results for sure. Who knows maybe bad install or bad rings? I had a race shop build my bottem end. I don't think any of you other 2.5 guys have anything to worry about if you had a good shop put your motor together.

        Comment


        • #5
          Jake thanks for responding, but I did forget to mention that he did do what you said. He said when he pulled the oil cap he did feel air hissing out , a little from the ones losing 8-10 % and alot on the 42% one. I guess thats why he told me the rings. He did also rule out cracked head gasket because he pulled expansion tank cap and didn't see any bubbles during the test.

          Comment


          • #6
            Good stuff.

            I reread my post and just want to say that I didn't mean any disrespect to your engine builder. I can sound like an ass sometimes. :1: I'm sure he knows a hellava lot more then I do. :cool:

            Good luck,
            Jake Larsen

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            • #7
              Jake I didn't take any offense to what you said. I'm glad that you put in some of your very knowledgeble input. Thanks John

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              • #8
                Just for reference, I have about 20,000 miles on my 2.5, and I recently had a compression test done.

                My numbers on all 4 cylinders were between 220-225 psi. This is with Ross pistons and total seal rings.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I also think it's kind of funny that they were unable to discover where the leak is. That's why you get a leak down done, to help determine where the leak is.

                  The TMS 2.5l kit comes with total seal rings.

                  Is it running rough or missing? It can be so many things, tearing into the head might be useless and expensive. But if it's a burnt valve or bad valve seat, who knows.

                  After 20k mi on a rebuilt it should be still at 100%!!

                  My 2.5 was built to last another 10 years!!!!

                  Good luck!

                  Do not click
                  At least it's German

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey EVOIIIM3 I don't know whats so funny I never said the mechanic didn't know where the problem was? He said he was 99% sure its the rings. He checked all valve clearances and they were good. As far as being a burnt valve wouldn't the clearances be off then. It could be a bad valve seat but I guess I won't know until the heads off. I know when I bought my 2.5 kit the rings were not total seal rings, maybe they come with them know. I'm not going to say a 2.5 can't last 10 years, but depending on how you drive it and take care of it. If you beat the living shit out of your 2.5 and say 50000 miles later or 5 years down the road, I can't see it lasting long. Go on Ron Checca's website I think he mentions about life expectencies of a 2.5, revs kill motors and that means rebuild. But all things aside there no reason why my motor should be at this state at 20000 miles.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by stroker2.5
                      Hey EVOIIIM3 I don't know whats so funny I never said the mechanic didn't know where the problem was? He said he was 99% sure its the rings. He checked all valve clearances and they were good. As far as being a burnt valve wouldn't the clearances be off then. It could be a bad valve seat but I guess I won't know until the heads off. I know when I bought my 2.5 kit the rings were not total seal rings, maybe they come with them know. I'm not going to say a 2.5 can't last 10 years, but depending on how you drive it and take care of it. If you beat the living shit out of your 2.5 and say 50000 miles later or 5 years down the road, I can't see it lasting long. Go on Ron Checca's website I think he mentions about life expectencies of a 2.5, revs kill motors and that means rebuild. But all things aside there no reason why my motor should be at this state at 20000 miles.
                      You said he wasn't sure, that's why you were taking the head off. Anyway a burnt valve or bad seat, can still have the proper valve clearance.

                      I don't rev mine to redline all the time. I have enough torque that most of the time is spent under 5000 rpm's. Mine was also built on the tight side to help it last longer.

                      Did you try putting some oil in #2 and then do a compression/leak down? That will give you a clue on the rings.

                      Do not click
                      At least it's German

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey EVOIIIM3 I'm sorry in my first post I did say he "thinks" but I should of said he's 99% sure its the rings from the tests that he had performed. But like you said who knows maybe a burnt valve or bad seat? He pulling the head off tomorrow. If it was a burnt valve , wouldn't the clearance be tight? Well I'll post the problem as soon as I find out.

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                        • #13
                          shit mang even my 16 valve gti has better leak down #'s then that and its got 163k on the origonal motor, redlined every gear lol!

                          wiseco pistons are :sosad:

                          hopefully its just a dead ring and no damage, put a set of total seals in there.

                          typically when something leaks THAT BAD though and happens so fast a piece is broken or damaged not just worn.

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                          • #14
                            Stroker2.5

                            What was your break-in procedure when you had the engine first running?

                            318is 2litre

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                            • #15
                              Stu here was my breakin procedure ran car for 500 miles no wot, under 5,500 rpm and then changed the oil. Then I ran it another 500 miles with no beating and changed the oil again. Then I started reving it up and drove it hard. I used standard castrol 20/50 for the first 5,000 miles then switched to redline syntethic. Well I just got back from my mechanics and he said the rings were shot and nothing else was wrong. The head was all good valves,valve seats, etc. The cylinders were also good he just had to hone them a little to put in the new total sealed rings which total seal advises to do. He said the rings that came with my wiesco pistons were nothing special, almost like stock. He said that he checked them and another .002 they would be throw aways according to bmw specs. The guys at total seal told my mechanic to not use oil when installing the the piston with rings back into the block, they said that could keep the rings from seating properly. They said to use like a pentrating oil.
                              Well since I have my cams out I'm thinking about doing Schrick 284/276. I run evo 3 cams on the intake and exhaust side. My car has awesome bottom end it starts pulling from 2500-3000 right to redline. If I was to go with the schricks would I lose alot of bottom end torque? How should I also go about breaking in my car again ? I'm gone use conventional oil again ,but how long before the rings seat?

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