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Door lock problem

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  • #16
    Using the VIN they can get you a core with the same key cut as OEM.
    You can also buy the lock repair kit from the dealer for less money. It consists of a new cylinder with enough tumblers to make any combination. With moderate skill level and info on the web, you can key it yourself.
    88 ///M3 Cinnabar
    84 318i Black


    • #17
      Originally posted by John Arnold View Post
      Unplug the central control unit and lock the doors and trunk manually. You can lock the gas door manually by reaching through the punchout hole in the trunk lining and sliding the deadbolt.

      It sounds like yours is electrically deadbolted. The deadbolt circuit is activated by a microswitch on the driver's lock mechanism. Remove the driver side door panel and check the microswitch. I'll bet it is stuck closed or shorted. You can replace it, or disable the deadbolt function by unplugging the microswitch.
      If your doors won't lock from the driver side without the deadbolt switch, you need to replace the worn lock cylinder. These have a known defect where the ball bearing detent wears a groove into the housing. The replacement lock cylinders are much more durable, using a roller bearing instead of a ball.
      Well i finally motivated myself to remove the door panel and start taking a look around. It's my dad's car I don't drive much so I had to re-familiarize myself with the problem first.

      It seems the drivers door lock just won't go up and down at all, totally stuck. The rest of the locks seem to work fine. I think the drivers side actuator is working properly but there is a white plastic part attached to the inner door skin that is totally stuck. It lubed it and got it to move but it's not moving enough to work properly. I'd say it's probably parts #5 and #12 that have the problem. Anyone have any experience replacing these parts? Removing them doesn't seem to be an obvious procedure.


      Last edited by 1990m3; 07-21-2008, 10:48 AM. Reason: forgot a link