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  • 1990m3
    replied
    Originally posted by John Arnold View Post
    Unplug the central control unit and lock the doors and trunk manually. You can lock the gas door manually by reaching through the punchout hole in the trunk lining and sliding the deadbolt.

    It sounds like yours is electrically deadbolted. The deadbolt circuit is activated by a microswitch on the driver's lock mechanism. Remove the driver side door panel and check the microswitch. I'll bet it is stuck closed or shorted. You can replace it, or disable the deadbolt function by unplugging the microswitch.
    If your doors won't lock from the driver side without the deadbolt switch, you need to replace the worn lock cylinder. These have a known defect where the ball bearing detent wears a groove into the housing. The replacement lock cylinders are much more durable, using a roller bearing instead of a ball.
    Well i finally motivated myself to remove the door panel and start taking a look around. It's my dad's car I don't drive much so I had to re-familiarize myself with the problem first.

    It seems the drivers door lock just won't go up and down at all, totally stuck. The rest of the locks seem to work fine. I think the drivers side actuator is working properly but there is a white plastic part attached to the inner door skin that is totally stuck. It lubed it and got it to move but it's not moving enough to work properly. I'd say it's probably parts #5 and #12 that have the problem. Anyone have any experience replacing these parts? Removing them doesn't seem to be an obvious procedure.

    Diagram:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...04&hg=41&fg=40

    Dave
    Last edited by 1990m3; 07-21-2008, 09:48 AM. Reason: forgot a link

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  • John Arnold
    replied
    Using the VIN they can get you a core with the same key cut as OEM.
    You can also buy the lock repair kit from the dealer for less money. It consists of a new cylinder with enough tumblers to make any combination. With moderate skill level and info on the web, you can key it yourself.

    Leave a comment:


  • ///mike
    replied
    Originally posted by 1990m3 View Post
    When you put the key in the door or trunk to lock everything, you can turn it to the lock position and the doors lock and then pop right back to unlock, regardless of which position you hold the key in.
    I have an E30 (325is) with exactly this same problem. You can actually feel the actuator "rebound" when you turn the key to the lock position. My guess is the same as others -- it sounds like the actuator has gone bad. I'll replace it when I get time.

    I recently replaced the lock core on the driver's side of my car. Exactly as John Arnold described, the little lever at the end of the shaft wobbled all over the place on the old core. It had gotten to the point that, no matter how far I turned the key, it wouldn't lock.

    I ordered the new core from a dealer. Using the VIN they can get you a core with the same key cut as OEM. I left the lock heater unplugged when I replaced the core -- there's no chance of a frozen lock here in Florida.

    Leave a comment:


  • John Arnold
    replied
    They haven't worked since we bought the car about 2 years ago, but I gotta fix it before we get ripped off
    Unplug the central control unit and lock the doors and trunk manually. You can lock the gas door manually by reaching through the punchout hole in the trunk lining and sliding the deadbolt.
    Can I remove the door panel with the door locked closed? Any diagnostic tips?
    It sounds like yours is electrically deadbolted. The deadbolt circuit is activated by a microswitch on the driver's lock mechanism. Remove the driver side door panel and check the microswitch. I'll bet it is stuck closed or shorted. You can replace it, or disable the deadbolt function by unplugging the microswitch.
    If your doors won't lock from the driver side without the deadbolt switch, you need to replace the worn lock cylinder. These have a known defect where the ball bearing detent wears a groove into the housing. The replacement lock cylinders are much more durable, using a roller bearing instead of a ball.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30m3power
    replied
    Do yourself a favor and pick up a copy of the electronic troubleshooting manual. Has all the schematics from our cars in there. I have used it countless time. It's worth it's weight in gold for me.


    Leave a comment:


  • fast325it
    replied
    Anyone have any suggestions for removing the door panel with the door closed?

    I gave it my best to pull the lock up but it won't budge. I was attempting to turn the key in the door, was pulling up on the vise grip on the lock and my wife pulling on the inside handle - no luck. I'm afraid I might bend the linkages if I keep pulling on it.

    Thanks,
    John

    Leave a comment:


  • F0Bman
    replied
    Yeah the plastic gears of the door lock motor might be stuck!

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  • CourtM3
    replied
    had the same problem with mine when I took it out of storage. ended up being Keyless entry switch position wouldn't let the lock open

    Leave a comment:


  • fast325it
    replied
    My passenger side lock is down and will not come up - neither with the key or the interior door handle.

    Can I remove the door panel with the door locked closed? Any diagnostic tips?

    Thank you,

    JB

    Leave a comment:


  • Reelizmpro
    replied
    Originally posted by UNHCLL View Post
    You could also have a bad lock actuator. Sometimes they will do exactly what JHT is stating... sometimes they'll "lock up" in the locked position and you can't unlock the door without feeling like you're about to snap off the key.

    -CL
    I was thinking the same thing. Had a similar problem when I first got my car. Took a while to troubleshoot but after a new actuator and a few door pin terminals it was good as new. Try to find a spare actuator in known good condition to troubleshoot.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1990m3
    replied
    I'm planning to take off the drivers door panel this week and start poking around. They haven't worked since we bought the car about 2 years ago, but I gotta fix it before we get ripped off

    Leave a comment:


  • UNHCLL
    replied
    Originally posted by jht3 View Post
    since it unlocks right after locking, i'm thinking there's an obstruction somewhere. if i don't close a door properly it'll do that same thing

    so i'd check the fuel door, trunk, then the doors for proper closing
    You could also have a bad lock actuator. Sometimes they will do exactly what JHT is stating... sometimes they'll "lock up" in the locked position and you can't unlock the door without feeling like you're about to snap off the key.

    -CL

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  • jht3
    replied
    since it unlocks right after locking, i'm thinking there's an obstruction somewhere. if i don't close a door properly it'll do that same thing

    so i'd check the fuel door, trunk, then the doors for proper closing

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeremiah
    replied
    The Central Locking Control Unit has an Inertia Switch that activates on impact greater that 5g. Because of the cars accident history, I would swap out that unit with a known good one, as thatís likely your problem. All e30ís equipped with central locking use the same unit. Itís located behind the Left Front speaker (by the pedals).

    Hope this helps.

    Jeremiah

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  • 1990m3
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeremiah View Post
    More info is needed.

    Do the dome lights work?
    Does the gas door lock work?
    Does the same thing happen when you use the lock on the pass side?
    Has the car been in a accident?
    door lights - yes
    gas door - no, all locks are inoperable
    pass side lock - all locks act the same
    accident - yes, front end.

    Leave a comment:

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