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Ground Control w/shortened Koni's Write Up

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  • Ground Control w/shortened Koni's Write Up

    Does anyone have a write up out there with a diagram? I ran the GC setup on my 325 a couple years ago and I remember cutting out the stock spring perch and welding the GC one in place but I don't remember what shocks I used. I don't remember buying Corrado shocks!?!? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    George

  • #2
    You need to cut 1" from the strut. I cut it at the mount to remove it, took an inch out and welded the threaded upper back onto the body.
    You would be best served to purchase the koni's that are made to work with the kit. They are valved to work with this application. They work very well with a 450/650 spring rate.
    Cheers,
    John
    88M3 henna


    73T100C
    97 540\6-Gone
    2008 MINI Clubman S

    Comment


    • #3
      Do you have to put something inside the strut housing, underneath the Koni strut, to have it sit at the correct height?

      If so, what do you use?
      -AJ

      -'88 Henna Red-

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Low Level View Post
        Do you have to put something inside the strut housing, underneath the Koni strut, to have it sit at the correct height?

        If so, what do you use?
        I don't remember putting anything inside the strut housing....

        Comment


        • #5
          The gc kit came with a spacer when I bought it. You do need to ensure that that is installed. Any pipe nipple cut to the correct size would work. I would size it to the od of the strut tube.
          John
          88M3 henna


          73T100C
          97 540\6-Gone
          2008 MINI Clubman S

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by OOMPH! View Post
            Does anyone have a write up out there with a diagram? I ran the GC setup on my 325 a couple years ago and I remember cutting out the stock spring perch and welding the GC one in place but I don't remember what shocks I used. I don't remember buying Corrado shocks!?!? Any help would be appreciated.

            Thanks,
            George
            I got my 450/650 setup direct from GC. The part number for the Koni shock supplied by GC is for a G60 Corrado. It is a straight replacement. I just had one replaced under waranty.

            Here are the instructions from the kit and a pic of all the parts including the strut housing spacer...







            Comment


            • #7
              :gotcha: Wow! Thanks GeoS! That was the most informative post ever.....this thread deserves to be stickyed because of GeoS.

              Thanks Again!

              Ground Controls on the way :woohoo:

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Guys, I figured I would add to this tread as it relates to the questions I have about the different choices available at GC.
                Like most of you know they have 3 options:

                Option "1" = This kit uses your existing stock length housings
                Option "2" = If you would like instructions on how to shorten your strut housings and do it yourself
                Option "3" = If you would like Ground Control to section and powder coat your strut housings.

                First off this set up would be used mainly for street with hopefully 1-2 track days per year.

                I don't really want to cut off my strut housing simply cuz they are getting very pricey to replace or permanent if I ever want to go back but im afraid its the only way to go? Has anyone went with option 1? Will I get the the full potential of GC with this option??

                The other options out there like the kw v1 are just a bit to expensive for me. Ive been looking in the used but nothing much ever comes up.

                Thanks

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just get the KW V3 from Bimmerworld and call it a day and save your original housing
                  Mike

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    What is your goal here? If you just want to lower your car I'd look into lowering springs such as H&R along with the appropriate dampers (i.e. Bilstein B8 or Koni Sport Yellow). Since you say you are only tracking your car 1 to 2 times per year I think going the GC or KW route is overkill. Plus you will need new camber plates to work with the smaller springs. There are several H&R spring options depending on how low you want to go and how firm a ride you want - sport springs (50406) or race springs (50404-88).

                    I had the H&R Sport springs (50406) and Bilstein B8 dampers on my car and it was a really good street setup and competent on the track. I also had the GC coil over kit and didn't like it. I felt the rear didn't handle abrupt dips / bumps very well even with 750 lb springs. This was with the GC modified Koni dampers which supposedly were valved for this spring rate.

                    The GC option #1 you cited is not worth it. Lowering the suspension via shorter springs and reusing your OEM dampers is going to result in a harsh ride and eventually you will blow out your dampers. Plus you have to contend with the spring perch which restricts access to the adjustment collar.

                    You are smart not to cut your existing strut housings. While used ones do come up now and then they will be almost as expensive as new housings.

                    You have two good options IMO:
                    1) H&R springs and Bilstein or Koni dampers
                    2) KW V1 Coil over kit (even though I did say a C/O kit was overkill for the street)

                    You will also need to consider camber plates and possibly larger sway bars to get the most from the higher spring rates.

                    As I asked at the beginning - what is / are your goals with the new suspension setup? If it is just to lower the car for appearance purposes I'd save your money and leave it stock. The stock suspension is perfectly fine for a track day or two, especially if you have never tracked your car before. You'll be focused on learning the track, braking points, apex, corner entry and exit, etc. Once you learn how to drive your car properly on the track you can start looking at suspension upgrades.

                    With any suspension modifications at the end of the day you are going to spend some coin. Do it wrong and you are going to eventually spend 2x - 3x because you will need to do it over properly the second or third time.





                    1990 M3

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ^^^ The goal is to improve my current set up. Ive been running a set of Bilstien dampers with H&R sport spring for a few years (roughly 5k miles since installed). They have been good but since trying my friends M3 with GC Ive noticed a difference. Im not good at putting in words differences I've felt in his car but it was definitely stiffer and i've felt a bit more in control and it didn't feel as wobbly from side to side around corners during spirited drives. We have very similar cars other than suspension setup.

                      With that being said I think GC is out of the question and my only option would be KW V1 or V3. If we go past the fact that either will be an over kill for my needs is the extra 800 for ajustable rebound and compression worth it at this point???



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Not entirely sure about this one:

                        "I got my 450/650 setup direct from GC. The part number for the Koni shock supplied by GC is for a G60 Corrado. It is a straight replacement."

                        I spoke to Koni's product manager for north America a while back about replacement GC shocks, he told me that all Koni's sold by GC are custom valved to GC specs. Koni NA is not even able to order them if you give them the GC/Koni part number, apparently they have to come direct from Koni in the Netherlands. Probably best to go through GC if you need replacements and want them properly matched to your setup.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by MtlAlex View Post
                          If we go past the fact that either will be an over kill for my needs is the extra 800 for ajustable rebound and compression worth it at this point???
                          No. Unless you track it heavily you'll never see the benefit of DA dampers on the street. Yes - you might feel the difference (i.e. firmer feel on compression, maybe less jounce on rebound) but you'll never be driving 8/10th or higher on the street so it will just be all show and no go IMO. All it is really going to do is make the ride less compliant and uncomfortable (and your wallet lighter).

                          Keep in mind that in general your suspension is supposed to have some "wobble" in it. Not in the sense of shudders and shakes, but compliant enough to absorb the bumps without pitching the car or making it unstable at speed. With stiffer springs any car can feel like it is more controllable, however (if you go too far with your spring rates) in reality where you end up is the opposite of what you would expect, car impacts a bump and is thrown out of control because the suspension wasn't compliant enough (or setup properly) to absorb the impact.

                          Race car suspension is stiff because it can be. Most tracks are billiard-table smooth, no potholes, no ruts, few if any irregularities. In this environment you can run springs with high rates, stiff sway bars and appropriately valved dampers because you are looking to tune the suspension to the characteristics of the track, and ultimately lowering lap times. None of this comes into play on the street.

                          I assume you have the Bilstein Performance Plus B8 dampers and the H&R 50406 springs. If you have some other combination of Bilstein / H&R I would re-evaluate your suspension. As I previously mentioned I had this combination and didn't find it at all "wobbly". There are numerous owners on this forum that feel the B8s and the H&R 50406 springs are the Goldilocks of suspension setups for the M3. You didn't mention sway bars. The correct sway bars will firm up your cornering characteristics (performance) better than any spring / damper combination will. However, like the springs, going too far (i.e. too large) will make the handling worse rather than better. Ask your friend what sway bar setup he is running. Also ask him what spring rates he is running. I'll bet they are stiffer than your H&Rs.

                          Assuming you have the Bilstein Performance Plus B8 dampers and you want to stiffen up the ride, I would consider the H&R race springs (50404-88). H&R Sport rates are 185 lb front and 340 lb rear. H&R race are 315 lb front and 570 lb rear. If you go this route take your B8s and cut the internal bump stop down. IIRC there are three sections on the bump stop (sort of looks like a Tootsie Roll). you cut off the top most section, leaving the remaining two.

                          Finally if you don't have the Suspension Techniques 22mm / 19mm sway bars (Part 52010) on your car I'd put that on your to-do list.
                          1990 M3

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by CCarey3 View Post
                            Not entirely sure about this one:

                            "I got my 450/650 setup direct from GC. The part number for the Koni shock supplied by GC is for a G60 Corrado. It is a straight replacement."

                            I spoke to Koni's product manager for north America a while back about replacement GC shocks, he told me that all Koni's sold by GC are custom valved to GC specs. Koni NA is not even able to order them if you give them the GC/Koni part number, apparently they have to come direct from Koni in the Netherlands. Probably best to go through GC if you need replacements and want them properly matched to your setup.
                            CCarey3 - You do realize you replied to a 12 year old post . . . .

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                            1990 M3

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