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Flywheel holding tool near Sacramento or advice?

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  • Flywheel holding tool near Sacramento or advice?

    Howdy folks,

    I'm tearing down my 2.5L and am having trouble breaking the crank pulley bolt free. I've used the "big screwdriver" trick, but it just isn't working.

    Anyone local to Sacramento have a flywheel holding tool or advice on a good way to hold the flywheel?

    I'm also getting a new impact wrench since the borrowed one gave up the magic screaming ghost on me last week. The breaker bar just doesn't seem to be doing it...

    Thanks,

    Chris

  • #2
    Chris good to see you are making some progress. :-) When my motor came out we used heat and an ingersoll rand impact gun rated at 600 ft/lb. and that did the trick on the nut. Sorry, no flywheel tool as the screw driver was enough.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. I'm betting once the new impact wrench is on the job, it'll break free. The old wrench couldn't have been putting out much more than 100 lbs....

      Engine looks very good inside. I'm hoping to clean it up, re-gasket/un-gasket, and put it back together, then start saving for the bodywork and paint, brakes, suspension rebuild, re locking, seats, brackets, exhaust, wheels, tires, alpha-n, cf intake.....

      Heh.

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      • #4
        I am kind of near Sacramento. I have a flywheel lock, but it will only work if the tranny is out.

        If the engine is in the car, I have always used a chisel roughly 6" long in the bell housing opening (flywheel teeth). If I do it right, it wedges in place and holds the flywheel solid.

        Then I have a 3/4" drive breaker bar about 3 feet long. Over that I slip a hollow floor jack handle so I wind up with a 5 foot long lever. With this setup, the bolt is either coming loose or something is going to break. So far it has always been the former.....

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        • #5
          Ironhead,

          The engine is out of the car. The breaker and jack handle extension have been a long time favorite of mine as well, especially in my very early days with air cooled VW rear axle nuts.

          With the engine out, it's been tough to find a good place to wedge something into the flywheel teeth. Once I get the new impact wrench, I'll experiment again.

          Any ideas or tricks on good wedge points with an engine out and on a 4 point engine stand would certainly be appreciated.


          Thanks,

          Chris

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          • #6
            If the engine is out of the car, I think the impact wrench is by far your best (and maybe only) option. It takes a TON of torque to break the bolt loose. I am not sure how you could do that on a stand other than with the impact wrench. If nothing else can you rent a huge impact wrench?

            You are welcome to borrow my flywheel lock if needed, but with the right impact wrench I don't think you will even need a lock.
            Last edited by Ironhead; 06-06-2008, 02:16 PM.

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            • #7
              If engines out of car and if you intend replacing sump gaskets? wedge lump of timber between crank web and casing if wood is long enough get friend to stand on it while you use long breaker bar on front.

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              • #8
                Find a 4 foot long metal pipe, some chain links and a buddy. loop a length of chain to each engine lift point, and pass the pipe thru to loops to carry it.
                Take the block to your local tyre/lube franchise and have them zip the nut off with a real impact wrench and some serious air pressure. give the guy $5 for some brew/cigs. I took my short block to my local franchise after I broke my bench and my breaker bar.

                m

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                • #9
                  +1 to mmark's comment..."threw" the short block in the back of my brother's jeep and took it a local mechanic's shop.

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