Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Aux Fan not turning on

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ted B
    replied
    I don't know. I opted for the slim, less pricey unit, but I can't tell you how well it works. If you do a search, you'll find others that can give first-hand reports.

    Leave a comment:


  • airkhin
    replied
    That is a huge price jump... Is the extra lil cfm worth it in a mainly around town car though? Or does the slim already exceed the owns output....?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ted B
    replied
    The SPAL fan I used is 13" in diameter push unit, which makes for a tidy fit.

    It is one of these (can't recall which):

    Medium Profile
    Lower Profile

    I believe I used the lower profile unit. Big price difference between the two.

    Leave a comment:


  • airkhin
    replied
    I will be doing this test this weekend! I'm new to e30's and didn't know the fan was to turn on when at certain temp, it goes on when turn on ac and that's all...


    For those that have replaced with spal fans. Is there a recommended size/cf flow? I might as replace while in there...

    Leave a comment:


  • ahlem
    replied
    Look around on the backside of the grenade, you might have to stand on your head a little to see the second one. On the three wire switch, one will show +12. If you jumper that one to one or the other(not both at the same time) you should hear the relay click and the fan should turn on. The low speed selection also goes through the low speed resistor. If the relay clicks and the fan doesn't go on low but does go on when you test high, you need a new resistor. If the fan still doesn't work properly, the thermo switch needs to be replaced. Please note I have a number of e30's and may have genericized the info form memory. However, I just did exactly this test last week on a '89 325is and have a bad resistor.

    Leave a comment:


  • cwilson61
    replied
    Aux fan

    Originally posted by ahlem View Post
    At the front right side of your motor in line with the radiator hoses is the "grenade" it's the metal housing for the thermostat. There should be 2 (I believe) sets of wires going to 2 sensors one set has 3 wires. Those are the low and high speed circuits for your electric fan. Those wires broke on my car and the PO put in a $.49 plug in instead of the replacement sensor/switch. After I figured out what had been done, I replaced the sensor and added pigtails to the toasted and broken wires. I also found that a cap end of the spark plug wire works to cover the 3-wire-Home-Depot-black-jacket-same-diameter-as-the-original wire I used for the pig tail. I separated the female spade connectors with heat shrink tubing. I fired up the car when it was cold and checked the sensor/switch to see which circuit closed first for the low temp fan seed with a multimeter. The other sensor terminal proved correct for the high speed. Check to see if the wires have frayed insulation at that grenade. Good luck.
    I'm having similar although a little more complicated A/C problems, but does your m-3 have "two switches" on the thermostat? I thought there was only suppose to be one three wire plug?

    chuck

    Leave a comment:


  • dtmdave
    replied
    Thought I add what I found. problem was aux fan did not come in at idle, only when AC switch on.

    Replaced the resistor and that did it. On the replace, I cut out the old one, picked up some 14/16ga heat shrink butt connectors put those on along with some black heat shrink tubing. After clamping and then heat shrinking the connectors, I slid the heat shrink tubing over and hit it with a heat gun to seal the whole thing it up. Looks great and no electrical tape to peel apart.

    Just tested it and it fixed the problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • feakara1
    replied
    Originally posted by LeeVuong View Post
    When the fan clutch gets defective, usually it stats ON all the time. Making that whirling noise under acceleration. But as was said, when in doubt, don't drive the car with two bad fans. Not worth an engine rebuild due to overheated motor.
    THe fan is always turning. IT does not make noises etc. I did the newspaper test with a whole newspaper. I have read now that you use only one newspaper sheet rolled up. I think I will just replace the fan clutch, the dual temp switch and flush the coolant with new fluid.

    Leave a comment:


  • LeeVuong
    replied
    When the fan clutch gets defective, usually it stats ON all the time. Making that whirling noise under acceleration. But as was said, when in doubt, don't drive the car with two bad fans. Not worth an engine rebuild due to overheated motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • jpchan
    replied
    Originally posted by feakara1 View Post
    what is the best way to check it? I have heard about the newspaper test, not sure how to do it
    The engine fan should be turning even at idle and still strong enough to shred a newspaper (not sure what thickness though) I used one whole section and it was shredded up with my new fan clutch installed.

    Well, if the engine fan is not turning when the engine is running then there is no need to do that test. If both your fans are not turning do not drive the car! I would get somebody to look at it at home or have it towed to your shop of choice.

    HTH

    Patrick

    Leave a comment:


  • feakara1
    replied
    Originally posted by R6Elmo View Post
    The clutch driven fan in my car is always on. I would check your clutch ot make sure it is functioning
    what is the best way to check it? I have heard about the newspaper test, not sure how to do it

    Leave a comment:


  • R6Elmo
    replied
    Originally posted by feakara1 View Post
    Im going to check those wires tomorow. I have a question with the fan clutch. When you first turn on the car and it is cold, should the belt driven fan turn? Am I correct in saying that when the engine is cold the belt driven fan should not turn until the engine heats up.
    The clutch driven fan in my car is always on. I would check your clutch ot make sure it is functioning

    Leave a comment:


  • feakara1
    replied
    Originally posted by ahlem View Post
    At the front right side of your motor in line with the radiator hoses is the "grenade" it's the metal housing for the thermostat. There should be 2 (I believe) sets of wires going to 2 sensors one set has 3 wires. Those are the low and high speed circuits for your electric fan. Those wires broke on my car and the PO put in a $.49 plug in instead of the replacement sensor/switch. After I figured out what had been done, I replaced the sensor and added pigtails to the toasted and broken wires. I also found that a cap end of the spark plug wire works to cover the 3-wire-Home-Depot-black-jacket-same-diameter-as-the-original wire I used for the pig tail. I separated the female spade connectors with heat shrink tubing. I fired up the car when it was cold and checked the sensor/switch to see which circuit closed first for the low temp fan seed with a multimeter. The other sensor terminal proved correct for the high speed. Check to see if the wires have frayed insulation at that grenade. Good luck.
    Im going to check those wires tomorow. I have a question with the fan clutch. When you first turn on the car and it is cold, should the belt driven fan turn? Am I correct in saying that when the engine is cold the belt driven fan should not turn until the engine heats up.

    Leave a comment:


  • ahlem
    replied
    At the front right side of your motor in line with the radiator hoses is the "grenade" it's the metal housing for the thermostat. There should be 2 (I believe) sets of wires going to 2 sensors one set has 3 wires. Those are the low and high speed circuits for your electric fan. Those wires broke on my car and the PO put in a $.49 plug in instead of the replacement sensor/switch. After I figured out what had been done, I replaced the sensor and added pigtails to the toasted and broken wires. I also found that a cap end of the spark plug wire works to cover the 3-wire-Home-Depot-black-jacket-same-diameter-as-the-original wire I used for the pig tail. I separated the female spade connectors with heat shrink tubing. I fired up the car when it was cold and checked the sensor/switch to see which circuit closed first for the low temp fan seed with a multimeter. The other sensor terminal proved correct for the high speed. Check to see if the wires have frayed insulation at that grenade. Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • feakara1
    replied
    Originally posted by jpchan View Post
    I had a similar problem a few months ago. I replaced the resistor and got a new low temp 81/88 degree switch and problem was fixed. The low speed is supposed to turn on without AC at around half mark.

    Don't drive your car if it goes to the redline when on stop. But if you have no choice just keep on revving the motor even when on stop to get that engine fan to cool the motor. Try checking your fan clutch also if it is working fine.

    I have a new problem now that the auxiliary fan is always on even when the engine has not started yet. I still have to diagnose that problem.

    HTH
    thanks for the advice. the aux fan only works when the a/c is turned on. IT does not turn on when the water temp reaches half way or 3/4. I think it may be the dual temperature switch.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X