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Got my car dyno tuned

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  • Got my car dyno tuned

    I got my car back from Split Second Performance in Santa Ana and it's running quite a bit smoother.
    On a Dynojet I put down 180hp and 166lb-ft at the tires. This about what I expected (not much), as I'm only using mostly stock 2.3L equipment on a 2.5 bottom end.
    I also started to run out of injector somewhat over 6500rpm.

    Specs are as follows:
    Evo3 pistons and crank
    Evo lightweight flywheel
    Maxx A-N
    CF Intake manifold and CF filter housing w/ large K&N cone
    Stock 2.3 head, throttle bodies, cams, FPR, injectors
    TMS 2.5 chip*

    *This specific chip (there are other TMS 2.5 chips, as well) allows you to run a 2.5 bottom end w/ 2.3 injectors and 2.3 AFM. Basically it modifies fueling but leaves timing relatively unmodified (so I'm told). As such, maybe some horsepower is left on the table because of the changes to the intake system; also it doesn't do me much benefit since I have MAXX A-N for my fueling.

    Anyway, I do have plans to upgrade the engine so it can make better power. But this is a start. I have a smog test coming up, and I wanted to make sure to pass, as I'm still learning how to tune.

    I'll try to post a pic of the graph over the next few days, if anybody's interested.

  • #2
    I think with your setup, your car should be able to make close to 200whp, probably needs more miles to break in the engine and then go back to have it retuned.

    With Maxx-AN you dont need to change the chip. I guess your next step are cams.
    Godspeed,
    John A.
    "If your ship doesnt come in, swim to it..."

    M3 e30 2.5L | R8 v8 6mt | 996 GT3 mk1 | Integrale Evo Martini 6 | Dallara F303/4 Toms | Defender 90 NAS

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    • #3
      Just was reviewing your car's data on another site. I'm sure others with Alpha N and so on can give you more advice. Mine is stock for most part, but not for long.
      Who knows where I'll be, changes from day to Continent.

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      • #4
        Cams give life to the engine and I'm running stock cams on an unported head, so I expected a slight HP bump for displacement, but more of a torque increase.
        I probably have 7k miles since the rebuild. But maybe not.

        I purchased the TMS chip a while back, when I spun my crank. It made my new 2.5 pass emissions with extremely low numbers

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        • #5
          let me know if you're interested, i have evo injectors, TMS 2.5L chip and the evo AFM.
          I would think the stock cams are becoming a bottleneck. Any idea on what the AFR was for the runs? what gear was it run in?

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          • #6
            Here's the dyno sheet FYI:

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            • #7
              That's a little on the low side, do you have a exhaust system on there?

              Your A/F needs some tweaking, it's WAY TO LEAN, only gets the proper A/F between 5.5-6000 RPM's You are loosing power here, & going that lean up towards redline can cause the engine to blow!

              Do not click
              At least it's German

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              • #8
                Originally posted by EVOIIIM3 View Post
                That's a little on the low side, do you have a exhaust system on there?

                Your A/F needs some tweaking, it's WAY TO LEAN, only gets the proper A/F between 5.5-6000 RPM's You are loosing power here, & going that lean up towards redline can cause the engine to blow!

                Agree here.. much more tuning is needed... the best area is the section from 5K - 5.5K.. and things are looking great around 6500 rpm if you could flatten that out before and after 6500... it gets too rich dipping into the 11s at 5800-6K... and then too lean above 7K which can be dangerous, and indeed it looks like the injectors are giving out.

                your target AFRs on a WOT run should be between 12.5 and 12.9 across the run. Richer and you start to lose power.. Leaner and you start to create heat which can be bad. If you can richen up the range up to 4800 rpm , you will probably find the motor builds more power. If you find that the top end cannot be helped, you will probably want to look for bigger injectors and a different chip. The low 13s at the top end aren't certain death though, so if you can keep it where it is, you should be ok provided you aren't spending a lot of time over 7K, but you are giving up some hp... You should do injectors before/with new cams if/when you do upgrade.
                Last edited by M3 Adjuster; 11-23-2008, 11:57 AM.
                Mark Williams
                Dallas, TX

                Nothing says "welcome to the neighborhood" like a search... oh wait... looks like they are all gone! :rastajake:

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Yeah, I'm basically not running it above 6500 rpm. I just have the stock exhaust system on there now, with a Stromung muffler.
                  I told them I needed to pass smog, so I will probably save this map for smog day only. I know i have some tweaking to do here.

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                  • #10
                    Looking at the graph you are below 13AFR from 4500 to 7K, so I don't understand what the concern is in that he's too lean. 13 is on the good side IMHO.

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                    • #11
                      How much did it cost you to have them tune your engine on a dyno?
                      Pat

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                      • #12
                        It cost $300 for 2(?)hrs street tuning and 1hr dyno-tuning.

                        Mark, the owner and a fellow E30 M3 owner, said it would be $100 to strap down a car and get 3 pulls. No tuning involved.

                        Dyno-tuning was $150/hr with an operator.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by R6Elmo View Post
                          Looking at the graph you are below 13AFR from 4500 to 7K, so I don't understand what the concern is in that he's too lean. 13 is on the good side IMHO.

                          I tend to agree. It looks like it has a rich spike around 5.5K RPM, I mean it is in the 11s there...that is rich in anyone's book.

                          Other than that he stays around 13. My reading indicates that 13 is good on a N/A motor up until the very high end of the RPM range. There I would want to see it around 12.5.

                          On most engines, 13 AFR is supposed to be ideal for power. Going richer is simply to give the engine a margin of safety at very high loads.

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                          • #14
                            Colin,

                            Do you have a wide band O2 sensor installed on your car? Call me, I'm in OC and maybe I can help.

                            Ron
                            949-637-6067

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Ron, I do have an Innovate WB installed. The tuner said that when he tried to reduce the rich spike, it started to affect the surrounding sites. He even tried increasing the load/rpm granularity in this area to reduce the rich spike, but it seemed tied to resonance. He said an intake cam (I plan to go this route eventually) would probably make things easier to tune.

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