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  • 2-piece header removal problem

    Guys,

    I am having trouble removing my header. The Evo 2 has the 2-piece header, so I wanted to remove the aft piece to have an O2 sensor hole welded on there.

    After removing all the bolts I discovered there is an additional way of connecting the aft piece to the first piece of the header. It's some additional metal piece welded on that fits into a slot in the first part of the header.

    Have a look please at the following pictures and tell me what I need to do! TIA!

    First picture taken from the top:
    http://www.xs4all.nl/~adwo/Adwo's%20header%20problem%201.JPG

    Rest is from below:
    http://www.xs4all.nl/~adwo/Adwo's%20header%20problem%202.JPG
    http://www.xs4all.nl/~adwo/DSC00216.JPG
    http://www.xs4all.nl/~adwo/DSC00217.JPG
    http://www.xs4all.nl/~adwo/DSC00218.JPG

    On a side note: the header on Gustave's site doesn't seem to have this extra connecting piece of metal. Both headers should be the same!?

    http://www.e30m3performance.com/inst...r/GpA_hdr3.htm

    Regards,

    Adwo

  • #2
    Just got it out.

    They are just two tabs used for alignment. After I realized the header is stainless steel I was sure it wasn't held together by rust!

    Adwo

    Comment


    • #3
      if that bung is meant to be for your wideband lambda sensor,
      I think it may be to close to the head.
      the sensor must be operated to be hotter than your exhaust
      gases at all times. recommended position is closer to the
      cats (or resonators, or X pipe).

      if you are going to run 2 sensors simultaneously then ok.

      John
      Last edited by John; 01-04-2004, 10:15 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        John,

        Why is it too close to the head? That would mean the original O2 sensor (which is even closer to the head) operates in a different temperature range...

        Regards,

        Adwo

        Comment


        • #5
          Adwo, if you are using a techedge electronics with a
          Bosch LSU4, then Peters advice to me was, as close to the
          cats as possible. I have mine in the X-pipe right at the junction.

          The *maximum* temp. range that the electronics can control
          the heater is supposedly 850 C. He would like to see
          much lower temps than that.
          So, the further back you get, the cooler
          the exhaust gas, the easier it is for the control loop to
          operate without errors. Errors are detected and shown via
          the LEDs.

          You can always try it out. Its just not so easy to get to
          the sensor once its installed in that position.

          edit: on second thought, forget what I said earlier,
          i was thinking of the wrong header, and hence wrong location
          for the bung. if you notice heating errors, you will have
          to move it back further.

          John
          Last edited by John; 01-04-2004, 10:54 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks,

            I'm using the 1.5 version with the NTK L1H1 sensor. Temp range is the same though...

            I'll remove the center section then and have it welded onto the X-pipe. Is your sensor at the 12 o'clock position? Where do you have the wires enter the car? Through the firewall?

            And what does 'Never point the sensor into the gas flow, as this will rapidly
            clog the internal diffusion chamber' mean? I really don't get that...

            Adwo

            Comment


            • #7
              John,

              Just read your edit.

              I'll just be on the safe side and move it to the X-pipe..

              Adwo

              Comment


              • #8
                I realize that the sensor cannot work in the high temp area nearer the head but, *In theory* don't you want it to be as close as reasonably possible?
                Get your GFCP fix here SCDA
                Fast E30 M3s come from here Vintage Sports and Racing
                Race in your backyard!! T-Karts
                Don't shoot your mouth off unless its loaded.

                Comment


                • #9
                  My sensor is at the center of the X-pipe crossover juction
                  where both pipes run together. it is mounted at 15:00 position
                  (looking forward). 12:00 position would be optimal, but not possible
                  unless you put a hole in the floor.

                  "dont point into the gas flow" --- not sure what they mean.
                  the way I have the sensor mounted it is perpendicular to
                  the gas flow. I guess this applies to people who might
                  want to stick the sensor up the tailpipe, thereby pointing
                  the sensor straight into the gas flow.

                  the wires run under the heatshield (next to control arm),
                  then straight up the firewall, and then thru the
                  engine harness rubber plug, and then to glove box.
                  Im not exactly satisfied with the location of the plastic connector
                  plug on the lambda sensor cable
                  (it is still to close to heat), so I will make a heat
                  shield for it.

                  John

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Dburke, for response time I guess yes.
                    Ive run the stock sensor also in the X-pipe before, and
                    watched the lambda control, it looked like it worked
                    still reasonable well and quick.

                    For my purpose, im using wideband only to measure AFR
                    before the cats. The display is updating several times
                    per second. I think the sensor response is 3-10 readings
                    per second, but I have to look that up again to be sure.

                    If I make a change in throttle, it doesnt matter to me
                    if it takes a small amount of additional time to
                    get stabil AFR. when tuning alpha N, you wait to get
                    stabil AFR, and then adjust the fueling point. (one
                    method of doing it).

                    John

                    Comment

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