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OEM v. Delrin v. Polyurethane Alternator Bushings

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  • #31
    Originally posted by MFalcon View Post
    Son of a mother! I finally got around to installing the Turner (red poly) alternator bushings yesterday, prior to reading this thread. The bushings went in alright with a c-clamp, but getting the pins in there was a bitch! After hours of messing around, I finally walked down the street to the BMW shop and used their press.

    The other big PITA was cleaning the pins that were coated with remains of the original alternator bushings. They were melted tar in some areas. I wouldn't use the OE bushings again after seeing how those deteriorated. It sounds like the white Bosch bushings were the way to go, but aren't these delrin?

    I'll try my luck with the Turners, as there ain't no way I'm getting them out. F. I'm searching this site before buying any new parts in the future. I learned my lesson.

    M
    Way back when I did the reds, this was my exact experience.

    I broke the alternator arm a few times when the stock bushings were going bad, but since the reds have had no problems at all. I've liked them so far and as hard as they were to put in will not replace them until I absolutely have to!

    I learned to buy and keep 2-3 alternator arms AND power steering pump arms handy. They just fail at inopportune times.

    We'll see how they do now that I have stiffened up the motor and tranny mounts.

    Bill
    William Buchanan
    '91 M3
    Bastos/Castrol DTM Tribute
    259000 miles and still an immense pleasure to drive.
    "The original M3 is utterly brilliant in ways the people at M have either forgotten about, or choose to ignore"

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    • #32
      Good thing I found this after getting the bmp red eurethane bushings. This isn't an easy thread to find searching. Hopefully the reds won't kill my bracket, I may weld a reinforcement on the back of it though.

      Does anyone have a picture of their alternator with poly or delrin bushings installed in the car? You need two for the back and two for the front, I assume you still keep the washers but I'd like to see what it looks like installed if anyone can run out and snap a photo.

      Thanks.

      Edit: I noticed in a few threads mention of poor angle between pulleys using the reds leading to premature waterpump nose bearing failure. Why? Are they incorrect thickness or something? They should deflect LESS than soft rubber... Not sure I understand.

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      • #33
        I've had Turner's polyurethane bushings for about 4-5 years now and I've had no issues. Granted I've only put probably 20-30k on the car since then. I also replaced my tensioner when doing the bushings with a brand new OEM unit.

        https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...alt-bushing-l/
        1987 325is - 185-195k
        1988 M3 - 141k

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        • #34
          Hmm I have the red poly bushings installed with the original dowel pins/washers/circlips. When I slide the alternator into it's bracket housing on the side of the block there is a tiny bit of slop! How in the heck? If I tighten down the nut and bolt as tight as I can it still jiggles a tiny bit. There are 0 missing parts - everything from the diagram is there. The only difference is that I have both thicker bushings on the back and thin bushings on the front and the diagram actually shows each side doing the opposite... Not sure that would affect anything since total thickness should remain the same.

          Could it be the dowel pin? The side with the notch taken out for a circlip is fine but the "head" side has a 1 or 2 low spot bends.. Perhaps thats just enough to make a tiny gap when installed making the slop? You should have to rubber mallet this thing into that bracket and that's not happening.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by proctor750 View Post
            Hmm I have the red poly bushings installed with the original dowel pins/washers/circlips. When I slide the alternator into it's bracket housing on the side of the block there is a tiny bit of slop! How in the heck? If I tighten down the nut and bolt as tight as I can it still jiggles a tiny bit. There are 0 missing parts - everything from the diagram is there. The only difference is that I have both thicker bushings on the back and thin bushings on the front and the diagram actually shows each side doing the opposite... Not sure that would affect anything since total thickness should remain the same.

            Could it be the dowel pin? The side with the notch taken out for a circlip is fine but the "head" side has a 1 or 2 low spot bends.. Perhaps thats just enough to make a tiny gap when installed making the slop? You should have to rubber mallet this thing into that bracket and that's not happening.
            Can you bush out the slop with a wave washer?

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            • #36
              The issue with shimming it like that besides being a little ghetto is that the circlip holding everything together (existing washer and thinner bushing on front) is barely able to seat as it is. There's no more room for another washer or even a thicker one. It would have to be added outside of dowel/bushing/washer/circlip assembly but inside of the bracket which the dowel passes through. Certainly not an easy task to line that up but it could work.
              It just seems strange that the slop would exist at all. Perhaps I should buy OEM bushings and see if that fixes it. That or new dowels as the dowel head as mentioned is a tiny bit deformed which maybe allows the slop in the first place.

              I may start with a new dowel if I can get one.

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