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My first S14 Overhaul

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  • #31
    i am in process of this same swap.

    looks like you have a lot of clearance between intake and brake booster. is engine mounted at stock 2002 height or did you shim it up slightly? how is the exhaust manifold (stock one?) clearance on the steering idler arm? what are you using for an exhaust system?

    many folks doing this conversion shorten the exhaust side water manifold by 1.5in by cutting a section out and rewelding together. this buys more space for the hose clearance on the radiator.
    Last edited by mlytle; 10-06-2010, 02:50 PM.
    75 M2 Zinno
    88 M3 Henna

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    • #32
      This may be redundant but, I noticed your customer opted for the coated bearings... just checking to make sure the crank was clearanced for them, Plastigauge, something? Looks great Robert, I love the 2002 almost as much as the ///M and that is the perfect transplant
      Rich!

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      • #33
        Originally posted by mlytle View Post
        i am in process of this same swap.

        looks like you have a lot of clearance between intake and brake booster. is engine mounted at stock 2002 height or did you shim it up slightly? how is the exhaust manifold (stock one?) clearance on the steering idler arm? what are you using for an exhaust system?

        many folks doing this conversion shorten the exhaust side water manifold by 1.5in by cutting a section out and rewelding together. this buys more space for the hose clearance on the radiator.
        We are using IE poly mounts, are concern was the S14 would be more then the stock rubber mounts could handle, well they are not much better to be honest. The height is stock as I know it. In regards to the headers, We did have to clearance them, after test fitting, marking, it was on to the anvil and the 5lb sledge, couple well placed strikes and the pipes where tits for clearance. Next time I have the car up in the air I will get a picture for ya.

        Exhaust system will be custom. We have a perfect mating flange from a well known cat back/exhaust shop, from there it will be 2 into 1, 2.5" pipe, 20" resonator, up over (or under) rear subframe and out the middle of the rear valance. Muffler will probably be a Borla, with some resonator dual tips, or just plain dual tips.

        Did not know about shortening the water pipe, its ok though, got it all figured out anyways.

        Originally posted by ///schwartzman View Post
        This may be redundant but, I noticed your customer opted for the coated bearings... just checking to make sure the crank was clearanced for them, Plastigauge, something? Looks great Robert, I love the 2002 almost as much as the ///M and that is the perfect transplant
        Yes the rods where plasti-gauged and clearance was spot on. I see I did not post them in the specs so I will have to look it up in the paperwork.

        And here is todays progress, its a cut and paste from my other forum E30 Tech.

        Well today was wiring day. If I got paid for every hour I actually worked a on custom wiring harness, I could keep the shop open with just that. It was pretty much all day. As Colin noted every single thing on this swap is custom.

        So today I got the custom adapter for the VDO oil pressure and temp gauges installed with the senders and wiring. I got all new hardware to mount the alternator today from the dealer.

        I then tackled the engine harness. This thing was ratty, all the cloth tape had unwoven, the rubber boot was ripped to shreds and rotten, the alternator cable had shorted out, burnt through the alternator signal wires that had obviously had a previous repair attempt that failed. Electrical tape can't stop rub though.

        As a quick note, what alot of folks don't take into account is the S14 is a super buzzy engine and if stuff it touching, its going to rub through, vibrate loose, or simply break.

        This is part of the reason for all the new alternator mounting parts. The old bracket was cracked, the adjuster was stripped, the lower mount bolt had backed off and wore out chunks aluminum on the front cover, luckily the threads where not damaged. For the lower bolt I used as long of a bolt as I could, 25mm past the bracket into the hole for full thread engagement. To prevent stress on the lower bracket since it was just a hair short I spaced the bracket with a hardened head bolt washer, this also keeps the bracket from rubbing into the front cover again. (LOVE those things, they are a super great washer for engine bolts, suspension bolts, anywhere you need a full size heavy duty washer)

        Ok back to the engine harness. Since it was all ratted out I decided to clean it up a little bit. Since this is a 2002, there are alot of functions and wires not needed so with a wire diagram and some trusty snips I went to work. I have the C101 down to 5 wires, the diagnostic connector is down to 7 wires I think. I eliminated the purge canister relay and all associated wiring, SRS, SI lights/reset. Also cut the start wire at the diagnostic connector and lengthened it so I could move the diagnostic connector pretty much where ever I want it. Also chopped out the main battery lead cable as that was not needed since the battery feed for this car goes directly to the starter. Then of course to repair the alternator wires that had shorted and burned.

        Then after much cutting, removing, splicing, crimping, and heatshrinking, I finally got to wrap the harness to give it a nice new look. I used the Genuine BMW cloth wrap by Tessa. This stuff is not what I was expecting, instead of just being cloth it was like velour, it was all soft and fuzzy. The dealer description just says 'Polyester'. Whatever damn near used at least 10 meters of it. Went through and also wrapped around the alternator feed out of the main harness, looked a little distressed in the bend area.

        Yes indeed, 8 hours of wiring. My fingers and my back are killing me. I am out of here for the night and off to grab me a cold one before bed.

        C/Ya

        VDO sending units and wiring for the Oil pressure and temperature gauges. Note new lower alt bracket setup


        Readying for alternator wiring repair.


        After being chopped and hacked, a nice cloth wrap to sooth the nerves.
        Last edited by RobertC; 10-07-2010, 04:31 PM.

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        • #34
          Robert, if you want a suggestion....

          Remote mount the oil pressure sender. The S14 vibration kills them. In roughly 2-3K miles it will fail and start sending you strange readings that will scare the crap out of you.

          I too prefer the simplicity of the direct mount, but I killed 3 or 4 senders before I gave in and mounted them on the fender fed by a pressure line.

          Many underestimate how destructive the S14 vibration is.

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          • #35
            Is the wire cloth wrap sticky or does it just adhere to itself without adhesive?

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Ironhead View Post
              Robert, if you want a suggestion....

              Remote mount the oil pressure sender. The S14 vibration kills them. In roughly 2-3K miles it will fail and start sending you strange readings that will scare the crap out of you.

              I too prefer the simplicity of the direct mount, but I killed 3 or 4 senders before I gave in and mounted them on the fender fed by a pressure line.

              Many underestimate how destructive the S14 vibration is.
              Thanks for the tip. I am aware of the vibration factor, a remote line kit is on the way. Had a M42 break a oil pressure adapter from vibrations in the first couple hundred miles also.

              At this point I am just trying to get this thing up and running.

              Originally posted by mtony View Post
              Is the wire cloth wrap sticky or does it just adhere to itself without adhesive?
              No actually it is very sticky. Part number is 61-13-6-908-716, List price is 17.93, 19mm wide x 15M long.

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              • #37
                Well been in custom wiring hell for the last few days. I am simply going to copy and paste my updated posts from another board as I have been making progress.

                Yay, yet another day of fun wiring, made some huge progress. At this point I should have all the wiring done in one more day. All that is left now is body wiring. This would be the gauges, tach wire to C104, make the C101 mating connector, and redo the body harness in the engine bay.

                Then its on to fuel system which is about 60% done already. I got some pipes to put on it to get it fired up and driven over the the exhaust shop.

                I am waiting on a couple other parts but hope to have this thing done by the end of the week.

                Well its late and I want to go home and eat, so this will be brief with just a few pictures.

                C101 bracket and the speed and reference sensor bracket are installed.


                Diagnostic connector, O2, coil, ecm, relay power, ecm grounds, all routing and placement of the engine harness is DONE!


                Got the oil sending unit relocated. I used braided BMW hose as a protector against the chaffing of the stainless weaves on the paint, brake lines, or wire harness.


                Today only got a few hours in on it.

                Got all the hoses for the IVC and the vapor hose's, so thats it for the engine, Only left to do is install the intake plenum.

                I still need to clean up the stock wiring on the drivers side, its a mess. Today I cut out a DIY main harness patch cable. It was only 12g on a 10g wire. I cut that out and upgraded it to a 8g cable, it is the main power feed to the harness.

                Then the DIY battery cable end was only held on by a single crimp, this is the main battery cable.

                I made new ends using non insulated heavy gauge ring terminals. I take the ring fitting and turn it upside down so the cup is up, then using a mapp gas torch I melt solder into the cup, insert wire and let cool, done. That connection is not going anywhere, then back it up with the proper size shrink tubing to seal and add pull strength to the connection.

                I did this for both cables. Then since the cables travel right under the plenum I wrapped them up tight with a few layers of the fuzzy tesla tape.

                Tomorrow I hope to finish the engine bay wiring for the C101 connecter, get the plenum bolted on, tackle the VDO gauges and some interior wire connections.

                Then its only fuel lines and a few typical loose odds and ends. Hoping to fire up and break in this weekend!!!!!!

                Just 2 pictures for the night, oh ya, in the process of doing the main battery cable I managed to stick my index finger right into a puddle of hot solder. Oh Damn, Roach Burn! lol

                Main Battery Cable


                Both main power cables installed and wrapped. You can see the old brass one was not very secure.


                I got some steaks to go cook so I am out of here,

                C/YA,

                Alrighty then, in the last couple days I have all but finally finished all the wiring on this car. Jebus, I have been in electrical purgatory and am finally cleansed and purified, amen to the wiring gods, lol

                Anywho, got the C101 connector done, also at the last minute figured I should do something about the electric fan. I had a old fan relay kit I never used so figured it would be perfect for the project. Its Chinese, so I only expect it to be temporary but it sure beats having a flip switch in the cab.

                Got the engine to crank over and was looking for oil pressure. Last night I was getting concerned as the electric gauge was acting funky and I was not getting any pressure. After 6 trys, I figured it would be best to leave it alone and tackle it in the morning. I removed the sending unit and cranked it over and got some oil out of the line, maybe a air pocket got trapped and would not allow the pump to pick up oil? Either way hooked up a good old fashioned mechanical gauge and viola 58PSI!

                So today I will be working on the fuel system, and a couple odds and ends. Still got to figure out how to mount the AFM as it has NO mounting holes in it. Its the first time I have seen that, so I am assuming we will build a 'shelf' for it to sit on. Not sure.

                Alright a couple pictures and I am out of here and back to work. Oh ya, last night I got the 'Why wont the engine crank over?' syndrome. Duh, did we forget the engine to frame ground, DOH! lol

                C101 completed


                Fan Control Relay Installed


                56psi confirmed on a mechanical gauge, WYSIWYG


                It will be interesting to hook up the electrical and see if I get the same number on the VDO gauge.

                C/Ya



                So far so good, hope to fire this bad boy up this weekend. It kicks hard on every stroke when cranking it over so I know this S14 is timed, primed and ready to rock!

                [peace]
                Last edited by RobertC; 10-14-2010, 07:58 AM.

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                • #38
                  What FPR regulator are you running. Looks like a 4bar.., but from what make and model. I have a 4bar on my car from a Porsche 944 I recall.., but it's giving me fits and want to replace it.

                  Just curious.
                  Philo
                  ________
                  88 M5 - 320k Miles
                  Electromotive
                  AFM delete
                  COP - Sequential Inj.
                  B36 Cams

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by PhiloM5 View Post
                    What FPR regulator are you running. Looks like a 4bar.., but from what make and model. I have a 4bar on my car from a Porsche 944 I recall.., but it's giving me fits and want to replace it.

                    Just curious.
                    Using the stock 3bar.


                    IT RUNS!

                    Sounds good, responds well but can't really run it due to no coolant as our upper pipe was delayed. Either way, I am happy as this was a significant investment of time and money. Has 65psi on the mechanical oil gauge.

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                    • #40
                      Awesome!

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                      • #41
                        something isn't right...


                        3 bar = 43.5113213 pounds per square inch
                        Philo
                        ________
                        88 M5 - 320k Miles
                        Electromotive
                        AFM delete
                        COP - Sequential Inj.
                        B36 Cams

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by PhiloM5 View Post
                          something isn't right...


                          3 bar = 43.5113213 pounds per square inch
                          And why is something not right? Plenty of people use a 3-Bar FPR. Are you confusing this with his Oil Pressure readings?
                          sigpic
                          Track Car Build | COM Sports Car Club

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                          • #43
                            Yes.., I thought the gauge in the pic further up the thread was fuel pressure. There was a paragraph discussing that there was work being performed on the fuel system.

                            Sorry about that !
                            Philo
                            ________
                            88 M5 - 320k Miles
                            Electromotive
                            AFM delete
                            COP - Sequential Inj.
                            B36 Cams

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              this is how the afm was mounted on the M2 i took apart to recreate. it is a thin brackedt that bolts on end of stock afm and attaches to inside fenderwell.




                              lots more pictures of my my before, during and after disassembly at:
                              http://s397.photobucket.com/albums/p...20kit/?start=0
                              Last edited by mlytle; 10-19-2010, 02:34 PM.
                              75 M2 Zinno
                              88 M3 Henna

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                              • #45
                                Just got it back from the exhaust shop today and it sounds great, the engine sounds great and it is running very well now after some electrical issues.

                                2 Into 1 and a secondary O2 bung soon to be filled with a Wide Band.


                                Mid-Section, Magna Flow Resonator to kill the rasp.


                                Up and Over the subframe with a flange so the exhaust can be removed in 2 sections.


                                Magna Flow Roundy to give it some tone. Check out the cool oval tip.



                                You want to hear it? Click it and turn it up, sounds pretty good.

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