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  • #16
    Guys-

    Does anyone know how many of each torx bolt there are and where each are used? From the picture it's not blatantly apparent where the 20's are used.

    Realoem says I need:
    QTY 4x 11 31 1 736 326 - M6x20
    QTY ?x 13 54 1 308 909 - M6x16

    Also, is there any reason why I should/could not just swap these out for regular hex head bolts?


    Also, are there any "while I'm in there" vacuum hoses that I should replace or are prone to cracking when I start removing this stuff?

    Comment


    • #17
      you need 16 bolts in total of which 4 are the 20mm ones. normal (external) hex bolts wont fit the hole in the rubber block, internal hex might, but I'd say the heads are too high, i.e. wont sit flush with the mating face of the intake block.
      the long ones go on intake runner #1 and #3, top and bottom, on the left/driving direction facing sides of the runners.

      You can see the slightly thicker casting in this pic where the longer bolts go just below the rubber block and left of the injector orifice of intake 1 and 3:
      Last edited by hardtailer; 02-16-2010, 08:07 PM.

      Comment


      • #18
        I came across this thread while searching for something else.

        Some of us have to learn the hard way. I've told folks - ALWAYS buy extras because you're going to round at least one of these bitches. The one at the front of the engine next to the coolant line is at the worst angle. They're E8 (external Torx) heads, BTW.





        These hold the throttle mounting blocks on to the throttle bodies. Took more than an hour to remove because they're hard steel and I kept breaking drill bits. Thank Christ I didn't have to drill anything that was still installed ON the head.





        I recently installed the Turner gasket kit. Well worth the $30.





        Same thing as Hylomar



        Originally posted by Larsen-Racing View Post
        About the Torx screws, when you are going to unfasten them. It is very important that your socket and the screw are as clean as possible for dirt and grit. A bit slip on the Torx screws and you are...well....screwed! :P

        I almost blew it on one of them, but barley made my way out.
        Last edited by Brandon; 06-03-2016, 09:12 AM.
        Alles Beste!

        B. Wheaton
        1989 E30 M3, Owner since June 2000
        2008 E61 535xiT - The DD and work horse

        http://www.bayareamotorsport.com

        Register your E30 M3!
        http://www.bmwmregistry.com

        Comment


        • #19
          You can use E34M5 paper gaskets on both sides and apply permatex. This was essentially what the Dinan gasket kit was. This is what I used. Leak free for 13 years. Tuner kit looks like a good deal!

          90 Sterling 2.5L E30///M3 lifer
          97 Porsche Carrera S
          13 Audi S6
          SOLD 03 Audi RS6 daily
          GONE 88 E28///M5 project

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          • #20
            Hey Brandon, did you apply the sealant to both sides of all four paper gaskets? Thanks!

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Brandon View Post
              I came across this thread while searching for something else.

              Some of us have to learn the hard way. I've told folks - ALWAYS buy extras because you're going to round at least one of these bitches. The one at the front of the engine next to the coolant line is at the worst angle. They're E8 (external Torx) heads, BTW.





              These hold the throttle mounting blocks on to the throttle bodies. Took more than an hour to remove because they're hard steel and I kept breaking drill bits. Thank Christ I didn't have to drill anything that was still installed ON the head.





              I recently installed the Turner gasket kit. Well worth the $30.





              Same thing as Hylomar


              Yes that looks similar to Hylomar in a tube. I prefer the aerosol can spray, it applies more evenly.

              Comment


              • #22
                Those big rounded E8 torx head bolts are expensive to replace as well, so you definitely want extras, but really really try not to bugger them up. I've had to use the proverbial Dremel tool fix ( cutting a big slot for the screwdriver ) to get more than one of these off my engine before.
                William Buchanan
                '91 M3
                Bastos/Castrol DTM Tribute
                259000 miles and still an immense pleasure to drive.
                "The original M3 is utterly brilliant in ways the people at M have either forgotten about, or choose to ignore"

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by mtony View Post
                  Hey Brandon, did you apply the sealant to both sides of all four paper gaskets? Thanks!
                  Yes. I had to apply to one side, wait for it to just be barely tacky (for everrrrrrr!) then apply to one half of the assembly, wait it for it to become barely tacky, then assemble the entire thing. Long process, but perhaps you can apply to both sides at the same time and then hang the gaskets up to dry so you don't have to wait as long. It's goopy stuff and not easy to apply evenly, so definitely use the spray solution if you can find it. I didn't know the spray existed.

                  The E8 torx bolts are indeed expensive (currently $10.75 each from ECS) but they're cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. Torque spec is only 8nm on those bad boys, so definitely resist the urge to go Magilla Gorilla on them.
                  Alles Beste!

                  B. Wheaton
                  1989 E30 M3, Owner since June 2000
                  2008 E61 535xiT - The DD and work horse

                  http://www.bayareamotorsport.com

                  Register your E30 M3!
                  http://www.bmwmregistry.com

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I did mine recently and found that spraying penatrating oil the night before helped a lot. The only issue I had was that someone replaced one of the reverse torx nuts with a regular nut. Not sure how they jammed it so deep into the gasket.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Anyone have a part number for the EVO III ruber Isolator seals? I see them here: http://www.c3bmw.co.uk/StockItem.asp...&Item=unassign

                      But I wanted to shop around. Don't see a different part number in ETK than 13541318319

                      Larger ports won't affect the 2.3 right? Just a beefier design?

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I think for a long time now BMW has only supplied these larger blocks for the 48mm throttles, so no choice now.
                        I guess they were fitted new to Euro 2.3L cars when they fitted 48mm throttles for the Evo2 and then late model 215bhp cars. Not sure what the port match is like on the 46mm throttles and the smaller porting head of 195bhp cars, probably not ideal but probably not that significant either.
                        This space is a sanctimonious shit free zone.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by BMG View Post
                          I think for a long time now BMW has only supplied these larger blocks for the 48mm throttles, so no choice now.
                          I guess they were fitted new to Euro 2.3L cars when they fitted 48mm throttles for the Evo2 and then late model 215bhp cars. Not sure what the port match is like on the 46mm throttles and the smaller porting head of 195bhp cars, probably not ideal but probably not that significant either.
                          So if I buy 13541318319 from turner or dealer or wherever it's going to be the bigger blocks? I only ask because normally ETK/bmwfans etc are pretty good about notating differences or superseding numbers. I just didn't find any indication there was even a different part number between block sizes which was strange.

                          It sounds like most people who have used the larger blocks (intentionally or not) haven't run into any issues and benefit from the beefier design. I suppose having an opening slightly larger than the port isn't a huge deal, sort of like m4 feed ramps.

                          It's strange that website wanted to clarify they used the (bigger) blocks for longevity when they may not even have a choice what supply they get.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Disregard, I found the old number:

                            [ Supersedes:

                            13541310865 (10/15/1986 — 02/19/1992)

                            Part 13541318319 was found on the following vehicles:


                            SO I guess the 865 must have been the early ones that cracked on the 2.3 (mine) and they just offer the bigger 48mm ones now as you pointed out (the 319 number).

                            Good info.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              8nm torque on the E-torx, is that confirmed?
                              What about the rest of the hardware leading back to plenum?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Was trying to remember where I had seen pics of the block against the throttles and the head and remembered it was on Gustave's old site , archived here.
                                http://web.archive.org/web/200801020...kets/index.htm
                                Great site with lots of helpful articles.
                                This space is a sanctimonious shit free zone.

                                Comment

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