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  • retarded control arm question

    It's almost 2am and Ive been dorking around with this control arm for a while. I cannot figure out how to get the bolt off that goes through the frame and secures right above the header.

    any suggestions on what tools to use to get this bugger off? maybe it's just been a long day, but I couldn't figure out how to get a wrench on there.

    also what size is that? 19mm?

    Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
    they are not idiots.

  • #2
    The only method that's ever worked for me is a loooong set up of at least 3/4" extentions and a nice breaker bar.

    The biggest pain is when the taper lock bolt (ball) starts to spin before you get the nut all the way off. You've got nothing to hold onto it with so it just spins.

    I don't even chance it any more. I put a jack under this ball joint, make sure it's got some weight on it, and remove the nut fully before even thinking about poping the taper fit bolt loose.

    Same thing for installing it. The only thing that's going to keep it from spinning is pressure from below giving friction to the taper fit joint.

    HTH,
    Jake Larsen

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    • #3
      I want to say I just used a 22mm 1/2" socket from under the car.

      Yes the jack against the bottom of the ball joint is the only way to hold this thing to tighten.

      Tony

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      • #4
        This place rules.
        I was just in my shop last night admiring the suspension parts that I'm going to install. As I was fondling my new control arms () I realized that the ball joints could spin in their sockets. I stood there for about 10 minutes scratching my head, wondering how I was going to torque the nut on there. I never thought of placing a jack under the joint to apply pressure.
        Thanks
        -Mick

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Jake
          The only method that's ever worked for me is a loooong set up of at least 3/4" extentions and a nice breaker bar.

          The biggest pain is when the taper lock bolt (ball) starts to spin before you get the nut all the way off. You've got nothing to hold onto it with so it just spins.

          I don't even chance it any more. I put a jack under this ball joint, make sure it's got some weight on it, and remove the nut fully before even thinking about poping the taper fit bolt loose.

          Same thing for installing it. The only thing that's going to keep it from spinning is pressure from below giving friction to the taper fit joint.

          HTH,
          Jake Larsen
          so you removed it from above? It looked like the header blocks the area pretty well. can you get a 22mm socket in 3/8 drive?

          Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
          they are not idiots.

          Comment


          • #6
            Couldn't you just use a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer if not?

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            • #7
              Well, it has been awhile. I've used this method more than a few times and the angle was always a bit extreme but it always ended up doing the job.

              HTH,
              Jake Larsen
              Last edited by Jake; 02-22-2004, 11:07 AM.

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              • #8
                I removed the complete front subframe (I was going to replace the motor mounts and reinforce the subframe at the same time) and it was quite easy to do everything after getting it out. The new control arms that I installed didn't spin in place as I torqued it down I guess due to the fact that they were new and were resisting spinning.
                Bryan K.
                Texas A&M Formula SAE

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                • #9
                  how did you support the motor?

                  Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
                  they are not idiots.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    a jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan works.
                    -Han

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Exactly, a jack and a 2x4 worked fine. You have to remove the two bolts for the steering rack, and then work the subframe out. Once it is out you have perfect access to the control arms. The hard part was reinstalling the subframe with the new control arms, while trying to align the bolts, the steering rack, and the motor mounts. If you had two people, I'm sure it would be much easier.
                      Bryan K.
                      Texas A&M Formula SAE

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jake
                        The only method that's ever worked for me is a loooong set up of at least 3/4" extentions and a nice breaker bar.

                        The biggest pain is when the taper lock bolt (ball) starts to spin before you get the nut all the way off. You've got nothing to hold onto it with so it just spins.

                        I don't even chance it any more. I put a jack under this ball joint, make sure it's got some weight on it, and remove the nut fully before even thinking about poping the taper fit bolt loose.

                        Same thing for installing it. The only thing that's going to keep it from spinning is pressure from below giving friction to the taper fit joint.

                        HTH,
                        Jake Larsen
                        ok so with this advise I bought the 2 foot extension since all the extensions I had placed the breaker bar right at the coolant rail:rolleyes:

                        I found a 22mm crowsfoot after driving all around town sunday, have a swivel and the shiney new extension.

                        Put it all together start to yank, and nothing happens other. hmm I need some more torque. after poking around the garage I come up with nothing. luckily the neighbor had something I could use


                        So I slip this monster over the breaker bar, and start to pull about 4 feet out. I still had to yank pretty hard, so much in fact I could see the 2 foot extension twisting! After a good hard steady pull the car groaned like the titanic hitting an iceburg and finally released this devil nut from it's 17 year old nestling place.

                        I hope getting the new ones on won't be this bad. what is the torque needed for this nut? I'm assuming I aplied about 120ft/lbs. That seams like too much for any nut that size

                        Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
                        they are not idiots.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          how do you remove the inner ball joint on the control arm? mine seams to be stuck

                          Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
                          they are not idiots.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Eric
                            how do you remove the inner ball joint on the control arm? mine seams to be stuck
                            From the control arm or from the subframe?

                            Tony

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                            • #15
                              from the subframe. its the passenger side one, so I'm thinking the heat from the header hasn't helped. I have all the joints loosley bolted up, so not all of the weight is on that one bolt, but It doesn't seam to help.

                              Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
                              they are not idiots.

                              Comment

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