Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

A/C Not Working....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Dave @nz
    replied
    The normal thing is broken wire which leads from the l/h headlight area to the compressor, some times more than on brake in the same wire.
    Disconnect the compressor wire and connect to 12v source you should hear the compressor click in, if not broken wire.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    Thread revival again... So, briefly I had the a/c system working last year until the low pressure hose rubbed through on the frame rail. I just got another hose and installed it. Pulled a vacuum for an hour, let it sit another hour and it didn't lose any vacuum. Set up the gauges, added refrigerant and now I can't get the compressor to kick on. There is 60 psi on the low side and 35 on the high side. I think this will normalize if I can get the compressor to run, but it has no interest. No click when I push the a/c button. I can't find any wires that are disconnected. What am I missing?

    Thanks,
    Will

    Leave a comment:


  • mtony
    replied
    This thread has some great information for troubleshooting your A/C. It's almost always a good idea to replace your drier before recharging the system. If the compressor seems to be working but you can't get the system charged or cooling, then replace the expansion valve as a first step.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...roubleshooting

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    Originally posted by Chucker View Post
    will, you will need 1.94 lbs ( check your tag under the hood to be sure) of r12 to full charge if empty. If not empty you have to charge by ambient temperature and pressures, both high and low. Do you have a chart of our pressure ranges?

    if you go with Enviro safe you have to charge by weight as well. I use a scale. The stuff is so cheap I just evacuate, pull vacuum and put in the correct amount by weight. You need to follow their conversion tables. You wont use the same its lighter stuff.

    the sight glass may be under a little black cover on top of the drier behind the passenger headlamp. Take a pocket knife and pry up.

    if you need a picture of mine send me your email address.

    You do know the high and low side taps? Very dangerous to try to charge on the high side!!

    chucker
    The system is not empty, hence the reason I'm attempting to recharge it as is. The high pressure side is the one with the tap coming up the passenger side inner fender, the low side is the one that comes up from the compresser and around the strut tower I assume. I have not found an ambient air temp chart. I was looking through the BMW online shop manual last night and only found one in BAR rather than psi/degrees F. The blue hose goes to the low side, red to the high, and yellow is the feed line. I'm assuming I attach the can to the yellow and it will feed through the gauge set into the low side. The pressures being about 30 psi on the low side and ambient temp times a conversion factor on the high side.

    I haven't put the gauges on the taps yet to see how much pressure was in the system, I wasn't sure if I could do that without losing a significant amount of freon. I'm guessing I can, but I want to have everything on hand before I did.

    The guy I bought the stuff from does a/c on commercial trucks. He commented that one can almost just use the sight glass to get the pressure right. Fill till the foam/bubbles go away. This should happen at just about the right pressure on both sides.

    I'll shoot you an email about the sight glass, I don't see any thing to pry up on my drier.

    Thanks,
    Will

    Leave a comment:


  • Chucker
    replied
    will, you will need 1.94 lbs ( check your tag under the hood to be sure) of r12 to full charge if empty. If not empty you have to charge by ambient temperature and pressures, both high and low. Do you have a chart of our pressure ranges?

    if you go with Enviro safe you have to charge by weight as well. I use a scale. The stuff is so cheap I just evacuate, pull vacuum and put in the correct amount by weight. You need to follow their conversion tables. You wont use the same its lighter stuff.

    the sight glass may be under a little black cover on top of the drier behind the passenger headlamp. Take a pocket knife and pry up.

    if you need a picture of mine send me your email address.

    You do know the high and low side taps? Very dangerous to try to charge on the high side!!

    chucker

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    I just picked up a can of R12 and a set of R12 gauges and hoses for $45. My next question is, where is the sight glass? I'm told its on top of the dryer, but I can't see one. Is it the hex head bolt that sits directly on top of the valve? I'm just waiting on a can tap for the type of can I have (I have a screw on tap, but the can is a clamp type.) It should be here later in the week.

    By the way, if I do have to pull the whole thing apart and I can find someone to evac the R12, I will use the Enviro-safe stuff.

    Will

    Leave a comment:


  • Chucker
    replied
    Will, you wont have to do anything more than pull a vaccum and charge with ES 12a refrigerant. Its mixes with all oils. It doesnt draw mositure if you ever have a leak, it just leaks out... No risk of black death as with freeze 12, r134a crap.

    its more effiecient than r12, freeze 12, r134a, etc... You barely feel the compressor kick in. And did I say blows cold. I put a parallel flow on last summer when I got all that freeze 12 crap out and its cold brother, probably 38 degrees. way cold in asheville, nc.

    chucker

    Leave a comment:


  • ColinM
    replied
    Keep a hawk eye on craigslist. I managed to score 8 small cans of real R12 (the packaging was ancient) for about $110. The guy was a retired mechanic and even threw in his old R12 manifold gauge (recharge equipment).
    Yes, not legal to sell to R12 without the permit, but I must have left it my other car.

    Leave a comment:


  • njboy
    replied
    Originally posted by RAD2LTR View Post
    I'm not looking to pull the whole 9 yards apart. I just need a recharge. No one has R12 to do a recharge. I'm not going to convert it, its not worth it. If I needed to take something apart, sure, I'll go with the other stuff. I'm not looking to fix something that isn't necessarily broken. I think what happened is that the previous owner paid to have the thing charged, and the shop said they did, but didn't do it. That is my best guess. If there were a real leak, there would be no pressure at all in the system after a year and a half (assuming they did recharge it). I'm not really interested in throwing several hundered dollars at something that isn't broken. If, there is actually an issue, ok, fine I'll fix it right, but at this point, there is no issue other than not enough R12 in the system.

    Will
    The conversion the dealer sells is not that expensive or all that tough to install. You can't get R12 anymore here in NJ unless you know an HVAC guy. You're in CA so I'm sure R12 is just as tough if not tougher to get.
    Last edited by njboy; 07-03-2013, 01:31 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    Originally posted by Chucker View Post
    dont use freeze 12. its no more than 134a and r142 mixed so it will be somewhat compatible with r12. use the es stuff i recommended above. its a hydro carbon so its lighter, more efficient. mixes with all oils, has a higher flash point than 134a.

    r134a does not belong in our cars, risk of black death, small condensor.

    chucker
    I'm not looking to pull the whole 9 yards apart. I just need a recharge. No one has R12 to do a recharge. I'm not going to convert it, its not worth it. If I needed to take something apart, sure, I'll go with the other stuff. I'm not looking to fix something that isn't necessarily broken. I think what happened is that the previous owner paid to have the thing charged, and the shop said they did, but didn't do it. That is my best guess. If there were a real leak, there would be no pressure at all in the system after a year and a half (assuming they did recharge it). I'm not really interested in throwing several hundered dollars at something that isn't broken. If, there is actually an issue, ok, fine I'll fix it right, but at this point, there is no issue other than not enough R12 in the system.

    Will

    Leave a comment:


  • Chucker
    replied
    dont use freeze 12. its no more than 134a and r142 mixed so it will be somewhat compatible with r12. use the es stuff i recommended above. its a hydro carbon so its lighter, more efficient. mixes with all oils, has a higher flash point than 134a.

    r134a does not belong in our cars, risk of black death, small condensor.

    chucker

    Leave a comment:


  • njboy
    replied
    Lots of good advice here. BTW the dealer sells a kit that converts the AC system to R134a. I did this and kept the original compressor and it works fine in 90 degree heat. There is a slow leak somewhere but I top it off with more refrigerant each Spring.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    I took the car to a place that knows E30s. They said that since the compressor is turning, and the air out of the vents is slightly colder than the ambient air temp, its just low on charge. They didn't have any way of adding the Freeze 12 to the system however. Just to be sure, the low side valve is on the hard line that runs around the front of the strut tower correct. The high side line runs down to the dryer and that way.

    Just to make sure, I can add the Freeze 12 to the r12 that is currently in the system correct? I've read that freeze 12 is R134 with a different oil so I'm a little hesitant to add it since I thought R12 and R134 were totally incompatible.

    Thanks,
    Will

    Leave a comment:


  • Chucker
    replied
    Here is what you should do. I am a GC and I have had my HVAC subs school me on this. You will need a set of gauages and a vacuum pump and micron gauge.

    1. verify that everything is getting power as it should. The compressor will engage, etc.

    2. pull vacuum on the system. You will need this micron gauge.



    It should stay in the green area for at least an hr.

    3. If it is a sealed system, then remove compressor and drain the oil. replace the oil with this:

    A blend of selected oils that have been formulated to provide the extra oil needed when an air conditioning unit loses the oil charge due to leaks or malfunctions in the system. For more information on this product, click the product title above.


    4. Re-install compressor, pull vacuum again and use the micorn gauge. make sure it holds.

    5. Re charge with this: http://www.es-refrigerants.com/produ...nt/details.asp

    use the conversion tables to make sure you dont overcharge. you have to fill by weight, so you need a scale.

    If you have leaks in the system then, you you have to find them, replace hoses, etc.

    Envirosafe blows cold, r134 will give you black death if you spring a leak sometime down the road as moisture in the system and it combining its pag oil with traces of r12 mineral oil. If you completely remove all the mineral oil you csn use 134a, however its not as cold as enviro-safe. Envirosafe is propane and oil, but has a higher flash point than 134a, so dont worry

    chucker

    Leave a comment:


  • RAD2LTR
    replied
    I don't have the $ to convert to R134. Id pull the whole system out and save the 86 lbs before I'd convert to R134. The system does have pressure, not sure how much. A set of gauges appears to be pretty cheap but we might have a set at work I can use. I'm suspicious of the expansion valve. I think it might be stuck closed since both hard lines are warm to the touch.

    Will

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X