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  • Electric water pump, has anyone fitted one?

    I was just looking at these electric water pumps and was wondering what solutions people came up with in fitting a replacement for the void where the original pump mounted.
    The pumps mount inline, but what sealing solution did you use against the engine?

  • #2
    They look like a good unit and the price really isn't that much more than an OEM unit.

    Az

    "But most of all...
    ... I like the way you move......"

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    • #3
      That's pretty intriguing. I read the literature and this actually mounts inline with the lower radiator hose (cut section out and mount). Since you can get a digital controller you can also remove the thermostat and use the controller to manage an electric fan too! Only issue with the BMW flow design is it uses a bypass that needs to be plugged.

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      • #4
        Borrowing this image from BeastPower:



        It looks like the electric water pump might even mount in place of the thermostat by connecting to the lower radiator hose and the hose going to the water pump. Then the outlet connected by the small hose to the thermostat would need to be blocked. Does that sound right?

        Also, stupid question, but does the stock water pump actually feed directly into the block? I can't remember myself and couldn't find a picture.
        Last edited by 808M; 02-09-2011, 07:12 PM. Reason: added image

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        • #5
          So nobody has used one? They really do look like a nice solution, and don't cost much more than a stock pump, plus you can eliminate the thermostat. I like the electric controller that you can use to set your coolant at a predetermined temperature (and which will continue to circulate your coolant if it is too hot after the car is shut off), plus trigger an electric fan. Pretty slick indeed.

          You'd definitely have to do some hose rerouting--that would be the most difficult part.
          808M--yes the pump does feed directly into the block.


          Here's the coolant circuit for an M10. I couldn't find one for the S14.
          Last edited by ColinM; 02-11-2011, 01:29 AM.

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          • #6
            I would stick with mechanical for the sake of it being "time tested". I know they fail but we don't know how the electric one does with an engine like S14. I know there is a lot of electrical equipment that can't handle the S14 vibration, I don't want to find out that a pump is in that category the hard way.

            Also the alternator on these cars isn't particularly strong so I am not sure what kind of peak power draw those pumps have.



            - Tire is the other control arm bushing.

            zhpregistry.net

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            • #7
              I plan to use one on the track only car but I wouldn't go to the trouble on a street car. There are some people using it and have reported it works great. I'd be sure it's not vulerable to engine vibration though. I don't think that plastic would last long if it were.

              Jake

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              • #8
                I have run an EWP for the past 3 years in my racecar.
                "Knock on Wood" no problems with the Davis Craig pump.

                The Pump control on the otherhand lasted 3 min. before
                it shook apart. Currently, running the pump on full time.

                Mike
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  See attached for the installed pics.

                  Note: I modified the Stock Pump and have a Custom Rad where the lower
                  port goes out Straight as opposed to a 45 deg angle like the stock rad.

                  http://www.s14.net/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9761

                  http://www.s14.net/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9760

                  Mike
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Sorry if I am being obtuse, but I am having trouble seeing the advantage....

                    Less parasitic power loss?

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                    • #11
                      I am actually in the beginning stage of converting my S38B40 race engine in the RedShark to this EWP set up. For me it's less about power gain (loss with mech pump) and more about proper levels of warm up (in the paddock/hot pits) and cooling (remediating heat-soak after on-track sessions and the race).

                      In the race car I've gotten rid of the heater box, and as the S38 is similar to the S14 in my M3, I'll re-route the water flow from the back of the head directly back around to the pump circuit. The trick will be if there is a need for a second "helper/circulation" pump to move water out of the head cooling circuit and back around to the main pump....

                      RedShark Racing http://www.brannfors.com
                      1988 M6
                      1990 M3
                      1991 M5

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                      • #12
                        Booker, thanks for the pics. So you basically modified the stock pump to remove the moving assembly?
                        Also, where did you have the control unit mounted? Sounds like vibration got the best of it in short order.

                        Noro--it looks like the maximum current draw is less than 8A, which really isn't high at all.

                        The advantages are less power loss and the ability to change the operating temp of your engine. I suppose you might see a little better fuel economy as well.

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                        • #13
                          Good discussion...regarding vibration on the pump itself, the davies craig pump is not meant to be hard mounted. It is meant as a floating design that is only attached to the hoses--much like how our current thermostats are mounted.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ColinM View Post
                            Booker, thanks for the pics. So you basically modified the stock pump to remove the moving assembly?
                            Also, where did you have the control unit mounted? Sounds like vibration got the best of it in short order.
                            Correct, the pump is gutted and welded shut.

                            The control unit was rubber mounted to the trans. tunnel. When I check it, two
                            capacitors were rattling around inside the unit.

                            Mike
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              Mike,

                              That's great info. How do you ensure the flow from the back of the engine goes in the correct direction?

                              -Ken

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