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throttle lever on ITBs

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  • throttle lever on ITBs

    Guys., has anyone had a problem with the throttle lever ? The one that the throttle cable attaches to..., that three angle lever. Mine has a ton of play at the rivets and is allowing the TPS voltage to bounce all over the place I think. I belive what is happening is the pulses in the ITB is sufficient enough to push the throttle plate and overcome the springs. However if there was positive contact against that lever I can't see how the throttle plates could move on their own at all.

    As a result I have to keep my TPS based enrichment sensitivity cranked way down to keep the engine from surging. When the enrichment is turned up I get a 1 ms spike every time the TPS voltage jumps. This is visible by logging the injector on time.

    Just wanted to see if anyone else has had a similar issue. Or if there is a fix for that lever other then replacing it at $650. Ya.., I fell out of chair too.

    Mario L.., thanks for all the help thus far with tuning the Tec3. She runs much much better these days. Just a quick shout out in case you see this post.. lol.. Thanks !
    Philo
    ________
    88 M5 - 320k Miles
    Electromotive
    AFM delete
    COP - Sequential Inj.
    B36 Cams

  • #2
    $650!!!! for what, just the linkage?


    Goodbye M3, you served me well.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by UweM3 View Post
      $650!!!! for what, just the linkage?
      Not the whole linkage... just most of the pieces. I just did mine with my rebuild!

      Comment


      • #4
        I have identified this part as something I'd like to change along with the two vertical rods (with Spherical ends) and the last time I priced up the linkage part with rivets I thought it came to about 150.

        Mad, crazy price and I pushed back thinking I'd find an engineer who would take a look at it and repair it for me - I've been too busy to progress that as an idea so it's still quite worn and could allow some fluttering I guess.

        Look at the diagram - it's the linkage close to the number 1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...83&hg=13&fg=05

        Cheers,

        Dave.

        Comment


        • #5
          Looks like the E30 one in the ETK is NLA.., but the S38 -b35 part number shows available for $650. Also.., on the S38-b35 diagram there is a lever that is for pre 1986 cars for $60. Not sure what the difference is. And the B36 and B38 lever isn't even listed.

          I was able to find a company on the East Coast that makes precision replacement parts for older BMWs.., and the owner has an M5. I'm going to check with them regarding reproducing parts that seem to be going through the roof in the part catalog. Hell.., I just paid $10 for a plastic bushing for the pedal box ! Unbelievable. I'll check them out and report back.
          Philo
          ________
          88 M5 - 320k Miles
          Electromotive
          AFM delete
          COP - Sequential Inj.
          B36 Cams

          Comment


          • #6
            This part is probably worn out on a number of E28 M5, E24 M6, E30 M3 and E34 M5. Early E28 M5's seem to have a different link arrangement and some models listed here didn't have Cruise Control but otherwise I reckon a remanufactured part that fits the M3 would fit others as well (and vice versa). Certainly the E28 M5 guys are talking about the huge cost of replacement and lack of alternatives.

            Dave.

            PS In case you are wondering the M1 uses a different linkage..

            Comment


            • #7
              You can get a pair of ITBs for $150-$250.00usd

              All the ones I have purchased had perfect linkage. If the S14 ITB linkages can be moved over to your M5 units, then it is a quick fix.

              Lee


              [email protected]

              1969 2002 racecar
              1989 M3 racecar
              e39 Touring

              Comment


              • #8
                I think the lever is labelled item #1 in most drawings, whether S14 or S38

                When you look at the listing underneath the diagram the part number against item 1 and price ($600+) is for the throttle body. If you check the diagrams for the throttle bodies you will see the cyl 3-4 (S38 cyl 5-6) throttle body has same number and price.

                If you look at the diagram for the E34 M5 3.8 at the bottom of the list there is an item 20 (1 318 058) labelled cruise control which I took to be the required lever plus assorted other bits (#2 -#7) for about $250. Does anybody know if that is right? Still v. expensive for a lever.

                I would be interested in one or two levers, if they were available from another source at a sensible price.
                Peter
                ____________________________________

                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you guys have the same problem that us M5 guys have, I have made a low cost solution. Check out this thread over on MyE28.com.

                  http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=88189

                  I just rebuilt one for an S38 with ball bearings and a laser cut stainless steel link. As soon as I can figure out what wifey did with the camera, I'll take some pictures. The camera phone pics kinda suck.

                  If someone here with a spare S14 linkage wants to send me theirs, I will figure out what it takes to rebuild it and send it back to you rebuilt for free. I would wager that it is probably very similar, if not exactly the same as the M5 link. If so, it won't be a problem.
                  -Paul

                  Mooseheadengineering.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Pics are up in that thread, but here is a rebuilt M5 throttle linkage:
                    -Paul

                    Mooseheadengineering.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi PhiloM5

                      You are less than $10 away from fixing your linkage... for life. I tried it years ago and it works marvel. Just get a male and a female rod ends (4mm or close), one locking nut, two bolts and two nylocks. Drill out the old linkage, measure the new one to same length, apply Loctite on the rod ends' thread, assemble with nut.



                      [email protected]

                      1969 2002 racecar
                      1989 M3 racecar
                      e39 Touring

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Unfortunately the price of hardware has gone up over the years and rod ends aren't as cheap as they used to be (well, good ones anyway.)
                        Fortunately, I have gotten a better price on bulk quantities, so I have been able to lower the price of the repair kits.
                        Offer still stands. If anyone with an S14 wants to send me their linkage I can see if it takes the same parts as the S38 linkage. If so I can drop the price even more with a group buy.
                        -Paul

                        Mooseheadengineering.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Check with R/C model shops. They have many varieties of rod ends. Even the Nylon™ ones with ball points will work. If it was precise enough (even after 40 years) for Kugelfisher fuel pumps on 2002 Tii, it might be good enough for a throttle linkage too. And I have seen them as pair for $2.99. There's not much load on them anyway. It sur won't replicate the look of the original linkage, but it will perform the same.





                          [email protected]

                          1969 2002 racecar
                          1989 M3 racecar
                          e39 Touring

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by LeeVuong View Post
                            If it was precise enough (even after 40 years) for Kugelfisher fuel pumps on 2002 Tii, it might be good enough for a throttle linkage too.

                            Funny you should mention that. I have had to replace a few of those in my time due to slop in the linkages.
                            -Paul

                            Mooseheadengineering.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mhm5 View Post
                              Pics are up in that thread, but here is a rebuilt M5 throttle linkage:
                              Do you have a photo of the bearings you used? Were they spherical like the rod end type....

                              the problem with the rod ends or the spherical type bearings is that they will eventually loosen up and provide "off-axis" movement which can also cause "slop" best would be an axial bearings or bushings, or support the spherical bearings from both sides to prevent any type of moment on the single sided bearing.

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