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  • Help!!!

    I recently got my car out of storage for the winter. First problem started when my Dad tried to bring the car home well I was in school, he sent me an e-mail saying that when he connected the battery the alarm would go off. I went down with him later in the day and realized he was connecting the battery the wrong way :grr: . He thought the red was Pos. which itís not. I fixed it and the car started up fine. Now the radio doesnít work (it's a blachburt CD payer). Also the Idiot (brake lining, ABS, and Bat.) lights do not turn on when I put the key in the run position, the oil and P brake lights are fine. Whatís wrong? Did he blow the lights?

    The second problem developed this afternoon, I was going to pick up my brother at work and the car started to stumble and would not rev over 3k it would drive at about 2k but would lurch every few mins., It felt like the timing was off or the fuel was bad. I did fill the tank and put in stable prior to storage and the car was running fine earlier. I was thinking there was moisture and it got mixed up so I put in some dry gas. I am hoping for the best. Any other ideas?

    I am going to talk to my neighbor tomorrow he's a master Mec. from Germany who works out of his garage, very knowledgeable about BMW, Porsche, and Audi

    Please, if anybody has any other ideas as to whatís going on please help me.

  • #2
    Check the fuses that correspond to the dash light issues.
    Stumbling could be a clogged fuel filter, bad spark plugs, bad plug wires, cap, rotor, etc, etc.
    I'd check ignition components first before fuel issues. If it was a fuel issue, I think the car would lurch at a faster/more regular pace than every couple of minutes.

    Chris L.

    Spray paint and tire shine doesn't equate to a "restoration!"


    • #3
      I've made some progress in figuring out whatís wrong. I ran the car with it jumped to the 635 and it purred like a kitten, when I disconnected the cables it started to sputter and miss. It was obviously an electrical problem. Then I was told by my neighbor that the battery idiot light completed the circuit to the battery return. Thus no charge=not enough power=a DME that did not have enough power to run the car properly because the #@%# light was out. I pulled the cluster and checked the bulb which was ok and then I decided to bridge the Red pos and blue return on the alternator and the light illuminates with the ignition key in the off position. When I put the key in the run position with the red and blue bridged the battery light goes off and the other idiot lights go on. What's up with that? I 90% sure the problem is with the alternator but I would like a second opinion before I pull it out and bring it to the Alternator repair shop.


      • #4
        If you hook up a multimeter to the batt terminals while the engine runs you should see +13.8v or slightly more. if you only see 12 or so volts, then the alternatoris faulty or the battery is too faulty to accept a charge.
        If you observe the Voltage drop to less than 10v while cranking the engine over with the key, then the battery needs a proper charge or is only taking a surface charge (aka It is dead).
        It is possible that you still have bad fuel in the system and should probably change the filter as well.


        • #5
          Fixed The Problem!! My neighbor and I looked at the car today and we determined that the cause of the no charge was due to a bad voltage regulator. I went to a local alternator repair shop and got a new regulator for $20 vs. the $200+ for a new alternator. I installed the regulator and the battery light came on and the battery charged like it was supposed to. Victory!!!
          Hope this helps somebody in the future.