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  • Installing a bolt in roll bar. Tips?

    I'll be installing a bolt in VSR roll bar tomorrow morning. Any tips on how to deal with the fuel lines on the drivers side. I haven't really looked to see how easy/hard it's gonna be to work around the lines.

    I thought I read about this in an earlier post but I couldn't find it.

  • #2
    zip ties

    Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that
    they are not idiots.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Eric
      zip ties
      ?

      Zip tie the fuel lines together? Is there any issue with them rubbing on the ends of the bolts?

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      • #4
        Mick,

        When you install the bar, carefully drill small "pilot" holes for the mounting points of the bar. Make sure you dont just jam the drill through the floor. This will give you an idea as to where the holes/bolts will be located in relation to the lines.

        Once you've installed the bar, and the bolts are all tight you can make adjustments underneath to prevent chaffing.

        Suggestions:
        Coat the underside where the bolts come through with some Würth brushable seam sealer or similar. This will server 2 purposes, 1- keep water out and prevent rusting, 2-provide some anti-rubbing and protection for the fuel lines. You may need to slightly/carefully bend the fuel lines to either side of the bolts. However, this should be very minor and you should have no problems with clearances.

        Hope that helps,
        Chris
        Chris L.

        Spray paint and tire shine doesn't equate to a "restoration!"

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        • #5
          Re: Installing a bolt in roll bar. Tips?

          Originally posted by Mick
          I'll be installing a bolt in VSR roll bar tomorrow morning. Any tips on how to deal with the fuel lines on the drivers side. I haven't really looked to see how easy/hard it's gonna be to work around the lines.

          I thought I read about this in an earlier post but I couldn't find it.
          yea, that was in one of my posts. i think someone answered the question. i think they said you should use a rubber piece or something. i forget.
          "Just road, seat, ASS; THE END!" - Jeremy Clarkson
          "If you had a choice between a million dollars and world peace, what would you get for your E30 M3?" - ItsNotTheNissan
          onfirelabs.com twitter.com/suga_shane

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          • #6
            You are correct about the bolts being a issue with the fuel lines. It is important to loosen the lines, and then stick a thick screwdriver (thick handel) between the fuel lines and the floor pan. This will help give you room for error if you drill to hard thru the floor. Great advice was that after you've bolted the plate on the bottom of the floor pan was to use a thick undercoating to keep the weather (snow,rain) from getting in. Make sure to use two nuts on each bolt. This will keep things from backing off, and also make sure that after you've tighten the bolts that they are turned parallel with the fuel lines. This will keep them from rubbing a hole in your line. Last thing.. after your undercoat is somewhat dry take silicon and lay beads of it on the parts where your lines lay againts your bolts( this will hold them in place ,and help with friction.)

            Good luck..

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            • #7
              great advice, thanks everyone.

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              • #8
                Your going to have to relocate your headlight and foglight switches. The trim panel just under the cluster is where mine went. I will post pictures of the install of my autopower cage this week. I have to stop by the body shop anyway.



                Last edited by OnrailsM3; 04-24-2004, 05:35 AM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by OnrailsM3
                  Your going to have to relocate your headlight and foglight switches. The trim panel just under the cluster is where mine went. I will post pictures of the install of my autopower cage this week. I have to stop by the body shop anyway.
                  He is only installing the rear hoop. Not an entire cage.

                  Mick-
                  Dont know if you're tackling this as I type....

                  1) Make sure to scrape off the sound deadening on the inside where the bar bolts down.

                  2) Obviously you'll need to remove both front seats, and pull the carpeting forward to allow you space to bolt and then trim afterwards. If you have an extra pair of hands, get them! it makes thisjob 10x easier!!!

                  3) Might want wrap/tape (Keep it thin) the rear down bar mounting points to prevent the chance of maring your rear side panels.

                  4) Might be easier to install without the X brace in there as well.

                  Sorry if you already learned all those tips when you removed it.
                  Dont forget to seam seal inside the wheel wells too!


                  Chris
                  Last edited by UNHCLL; 04-24-2004, 06:26 AM.
                  Chris L.

                  Spray paint and tire shine doesn't equate to a "restoration!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    One thing that I did during the install was to pull the feet out as wide as they would go (up to the outside of the body of the car). Once it was all in, when I tried to fit the crossbrace, pulling the legs out caused the bolt holes to be off on the crossbar, so I had to redrill some of the holes and it was a big pain! I suggest letting the bar sit in there at its equilbrium position.
                    Bryan K.
                    Texas A&M Formula SAE

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the advice. It's in, I'll post pics in a few hours. The install wasn't bad at all.

                      Chris, you were right, I was in the middle of the install. I learned each one of your tips the hard way.
                      Thanks

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mick
                        Chris, you were right, I was in the middle of the install. I learned each one of your tips the hard way.
                        Thanks
                        DOH! I guessed you would have caught some of those tricks while removing it from the other car. Sorry I would have put all those in my first post!!

                        Hope you are pleased!
                        Chris L.

                        Spray paint and tire shine doesn't equate to a "restoration!"

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                        • #13
                          Mick

                          Definitely post pics...thats the next thing I'm getting and am debating whether to buy a bolt in or go to this guy in the area that specializes in roll bars/cages...he apparently does them for the secret service

                          Jeff
                          1988 E30 M3, my Lachsilber Track Rat

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by OnrailsM3
                            Your going to have to relocate your headlight and foglight switches. The trim panel just under the cluster is where mine went. I will post pictures of the install of my autopower cage this week. I have to stop by the body shop anyway.
                            wow i guess i got lucky, the safety devices cage fit amazing, fog light switched is fine as well as the head light pull. the guy who installed the cage for me had to pull the fuel lines away when he welded and the bolts didnot make it to move

                            Shes sold now :(

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