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  • Brake Lining Light on... Help

    Kids. I have the brake lining light on in my cluster. I replaced both sensors (driver's front and passenger's rear) and still have the lining light on. The light was on when I purchased the vehicle. I need to turn it off to pass light inspection. Any help is appreciated.
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    The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
    sigpic

  • #2
    How about the fluid level sensor?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BBS16 View Post
      How about the fluid level sensor?
      That also triggers the brake lining light to come on? My brake fluid is within the acceptable range. The sensor, however, may or may not be working. How do I check it? Is there a protocol?
      --------------------------------------
      The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
      sigpic

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      • #4
        What about the brake light switch? I remember on my E36, a faulty brake light switch threw a brake circuit error on the OBC. Is there an E30 equivalent of break light switch? Would a faulty one throw a brake lining light on the dash? It's necessary to mention that the brake lining light is on as soon as I turn the car on without any application of brake. The brake light LED is on on the OBC but will disappear as soon as I step on the brake. The brake lining light in the dash, however, remains illuminated.
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        The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
        sigpic

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        • #5
          IMHO these things arent necessary if you maintain your car well. Do away with them, cut the wires to the sensors at the front and back and join them together with a connector. Problem solved permanently !!!

          "But most of all...
          ... I like the way you move......"

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          • #6
            Well a broken wire somewhere in the harness will cause the light to come on. You'll need to check continuity through out the front and back circuits.
            In my case the problem was a broken solder joint behind the gauge cluster. Unfortunately you may have to remove the gauge cluster to properly diagnose. Check the connectors and clean them under the wheel wells first!
            There'll be Spandex jackets one for everyone ...

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            • #7
              Try this. http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread....t=brake+lining

              chucker
              89 m3 "Ms. Bavaria"..... Cinnabar w/ Black Guts, Evo 2 cam, Miller War Chip, CF Intake, What's a cat?
              12 Avalanche "OJ" ..... Black on Black, Loaded, and Runs
              08 335i "Vanessa" ..... Black with Buckskin guts
              08 Jetta 2.0 Turbo "Joan Jetta"..... Red with Tan Guts

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              • #8
                Cut the wires back, twist them together and abandon the system. If not, check at the rear trailing arm bushing. Right there is a spot these wires break opening the circuit and kicking the light on..

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                • #9
                  Dang I have this issue on my e30 325is. I wish I had known to check the solder when the cluster was out. Maybe a project for down the road when everything else is fixed.
                  1987 325is - 185-195k
                  1988 M3 - 141k

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by OnrailsM3 View Post
                    Cut the wires back, twist them together and abandon the system. If not, check at the rear trailing arm bushing. Right there is a spot these wires break opening the circuit and kicking the light on..
                    sorry to hijack. is this wehre i should look if the light is flickering on bumpy roads?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by OnrailsM3 View Post
                      Cut the wires back, twist them together and abandon the system. If not, check at the rear trailing arm bushing. Right there is a spot these wires break opening the circuit and kicking the light on..
                      Like I said, get rid of it. Cut, join together and forget!

                      "But most of all...
                      ... I like the way you move......"

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                      • #12
                        I have a working level sensor if you want to try it out. I would check continuity of the connections under the back seat and up front to make sure that the sensors are getting to the connections and then work it back to the cluster. I have had the same problem in many cars and it is usually the sensors which you have already changed.

                        Cheers,

                        Jim
                        Livin the Dream

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                        • #13
                          Or, you can check the Ohms on yours. I just checked a the working one I have and it goes for 0.0 (fully extended) to about 13.0 then climbs slowly for a few minutes to about 20 ohms.
                          Livin the Dream

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                          • #14
                            Decided to say fuck it and pulled the bulb from behind the cluster.
                            --------------------------------------
                            The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              And that's another way to fix it....:ha:

                              Cheers,

                              Jim
                              Livin the Dream

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