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Changed distributor seal= no start!!

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  • Changed distributor seal= no start!!

    Hi, i noticed how some gunk was being build up under the distributor ,,
    so i proceed to changed the seal. While i was there i changed the water pump and pws belts
    also did an oil change and electric fan convertion

    when it was the big moment to test it out all i heard was a soft buzzing from the front of the engine
    and the gas pump but it would not start.

    Any comments and suggestions are welcomed, thanks!!

  • #2
    Does the engine crank? Do you have spark at the plugs?
    --------------------------------------
    The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
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    • #3
      Does it matter which way the distributor rotor was placed back together??....cuz i dont think if i put it in the same position that it was in when i took it out, ,,,,,also how do i check for spark????

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      • #4
        Originally posted by sleeper14 View Post
        Does it matter which way the distributor rotor was placed back together??....cuz i dont think if i put it in the same position that it was in when i took it out, ,,,,,also how do i check for spark????
        It ABSOLUTELY does matter!! It also matters that you positioned the rotor drive on the camshaft properly too. That's most likely the
        problem... the three bolts on the rotor won't all engage unless the rotor is in the correct orientation, so unless you left one of the bolts
        un-done, it's probably bolted up correctly to the drive, and I would conclude that the drive is not indexed correctly on the cam.
        Ron ///Man

        • '91 Gr-A Former CiBiEmme / Ravaglia - Sold
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        • '89 M3 M3T / ITR Club Racer
        • '94 Spec E36 - Eh....
        • '09 M3 - Tarmac Terrorist
        • '04 330Xi Sport 6 Speed - Snowmobile
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        • http://www.imwcarparts.com/e30-m3-parts.htm


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        • #5
          All the bolts where tighten down what i dont remember is which way was the rotor pointing,,,in your opionion how should i tackle this problem.?

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          • #6
            To remove the distributor case you must have removed both the rotor and the piece that the rotor mounts to. #13 in first drawing.

            That mounts to # 10 in the second drawing. I guess you did not remove #10 from the end of the cam shaft. #13 is keyed to #10 and must be located properly. The rotor arm can only bolt to 13 in one specific orientation. The correct fitting of these parts is essential for the spark.



            Peter
            ____________________________________

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            • #7
              Ok, with any non start problem you should be thinking of three things,namely fuel, air, and spark. Since you haven't touched the fuel or air supply to the chamber, I doubt your issue lies there. Pull out your spark plug wires and hold them against block and ask someone to crank the engine and see if you see a nice blue arc forming in consistent intervals. If not, then you know what's the issue, if yes, then pull the plugs and examine them and entertain checking for fuel pressure. If you don't see a consistent spark forming, and you are certain you haven't mixed up the spark plug wires, then disassemble the distributor. The rotor will only fasten to the cap if you line it up correctly, otherwise the 3 allen bolts won't all screw in. This point was mentioned earlier. Clean the contact points or invest in a new cap and rotor if you feel necessary. Try again. Report back with your findings. Good luck.
              --------------------------------------
              The God's chariot... (OO==[][]==OO)
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              • #8
                Part 13 i know i bolted it right since it has a nipple in the back where it has to be seated on part 10,,,,,its part 16 that i dont remeber which way it was facing when i installed it back together,,,,as for the cap and rotor is fairly a month. The entire ignition is brand new coil, magnacore wires spark plugs

                but then again maybe i crossed a wire or is it possible to overtightent the bolt that holds part 13 to part 10

                i will check tonight after school and i will keep everyone updated maybe put some pics!! Thank you all!!

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                • #9
                  16 will only go onto 10 in one way if you get all three bolts tightened up. If you did not break 16 then it should be OK. I presume you used both cap and rotor that you took off - if not they may not be a "pair". Did you take the leads out of the cap - could well be wrong if you were not certain when you put them back. Have a photo on my other PC if you want a help with which lead goes to which plug.

                  Just confirm that the engine is turning over when you turn the key. In your first post you said that you got a soft buzzing from the front of the engine. What do you think that is? You can hear that over the noise of the engine turning over?
                  Peter
                  ____________________________________

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                  • #10
                    have you perhaps mixed a new style cap and old rotor or vice versa? They dont match.

                    however from your description it sounds like the engine doesnt even crank but you havent answered that question. Please do so its vital for pointing you in the right direction.
                    Make sure the firing order is correct 1-4-3-2-1-4-3-2 etc. To check this turn the crank (36mm socket on pulley nut) till the mark "OT' on the pullye lines up with the pin on the timing chain cover. Now mark the spark plug wires, pull them from the spark plugs, take the cam cover off and check that both came lobes of cyl. 1 are pointing towards each other. If they dont then turn the crank another full turn (before the piston was on TDC but on the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke). Now take the cover of the distributor off and see to what post in the dizzy cap the rotor lines up to. The spark plug wire from this post should go to plug number one. If you have the black cover on the dizzy cap it will show the numbers of the corresponding cylinders to the dizzy posts making it easy to check the other wires.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sleeper14 View Post
                      Hi, i noticed how some gunk was being build up under the distributor ,,
                      so i proceed to changed the seal. While i was there i changed the water pump and pws belts
                      also did an oil change and electric fan convertion

                      when it was the big moment to test it out all i heard was a soft buzzing from the front of the engine
                      and the gas pump but it would not start.

                      Any comments and suggestions are welcomed, thanks!!
                      This is not meant to be insulting ... did you make sure your battery is charged?

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                      • #12
                        Photo from my archives - I hope it is right! It must be. (painting skills courtesy of Uwe - lol )

                        Last edited by PBC UK; 11-30-2012, 10:33 AM.
                        Peter
                        ____________________________________

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                        • #13
                          yes battery is fully charged, I got home kind of late but I will remove the distributor tomorrow and reinstall, check the wires and see what else I might have messed up,, thanks again.

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                          • #14
                            As for it to crank every time i turn the key i see the pullies spinning but it wont start,,,just a soft buzzing is heard,,never heard that sound before but like i said tomorrow i will check it out.

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                            • #15
                              tried to crank it after making sure the spark plug wires where in order and it was a no go,,,removed the air filter elbow and smoke was coming out of it, going to disasmeble the distributor to check if it is seated correctly

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