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  • Replacing clutch question..

    There are differences in the two clutch kits Im looking at for replacing my shot clutch. Both have the pressure plate, T/O bearing, and clutch disk. But one also has rear engine seal, pilot bearing,all transmission seals, exhaust gaskets, and a pivot pin...will I need these when I do the swap? I have about 95k on my car and am not sure what all I will need to replace. TIA!!

  • #2
    I am doing this now, and what a total PITA it has been. Depending on the exhaust gaskets, I would go for the 2nd kit. The gaskets you are going to want to replace are the header to cat gaskets. As for the pivot pin, I am not doing it, nor the rear engine seal, but everything else mentioned is coming out or being replaced. Tranny mounts too while you are down there, and perhaps some shifter parts if you are so inclined.

    Will
    Increasing the value of E30 M3's everywhere - one shunt at a time.

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    • #3
      Just curious as I'm in the market too, what are the two kits? I would go with the second kit because even if your rear main seal, exhaust gaskets, trans seal, etc....are good, they will go sometimg and it's 100x more efficent labor wise to do them with the clutch.
      "It is needless to say that self-propelling vehicles, like other machines, will never do as much for one who does not understand them as for one who does."

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      • #4
        agreed, 2nd kit, if those parts go out you'll be doing the majority of the labor all over again, better safe than sorry
        A friend will come bail you out of jail, but a TRUE friend will be sitting next to you in the jail cell saying, "Dude, that was focking awesome!"

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        • #5
          The rear main is a bitch to get out without taking off the upper pan, which is a job in itself. You can do it, but your mechanic will probably follow the recommended procedure. This would definately cost you more to have done, but obvoiusly less than just the rear main alone since the tranny is already off.

          I would leave it if there is no leaking issues. I would also replace all the shifter stuff and the pivot ball and throwout/pilot bearing while you are there. Tranny mounts also should be done while you are there.

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          • #6
            get the second kit.
            You don't really have to change/replace all the parts.
            Plus you'll be building up your spare parts inventory.
            m

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            • #7
              I would get the second kit. As someone has said, once the transmission is out the other parts are pretty easy to change.

              The rear main seal can be replaced without removing the carrier. A mechanic friend of mine did it on my car, and made it look easy.

              I would strongly recommend replacing the pivot pin. After 100,000 miles, the one in my car was 14mm long and a new one is 15mm. Although 1mm isn't a lot, it is half of the tolerance for the slave cylinder pushrod travel.

              With the transmission out, the shift selector seal is easy. The output shaft seal is known to leak, so replacing it at this point would be a really good idea.

              When reassembling the exhaust system, it's really nice to have new gaskets and especially new bolts and nuts. If the bolts and nuts aren't included in the kit, go ahead and buy them separately. You'll probably end up cutting a few to get the exhaust off.

              I would also suggest replacing the shifter bits to remove any slop. With the transmission out, this is simply reinstalling everything with new parts.

              For more info, see my notes: http://www.akyol.org/racing/


              Dean

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