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Routing Bimmerworld brake duct hose?

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  • Routing Bimmerworld brake duct hose?

    I installed the Bimmerworld brake duct backing plates on the M3 this week. I am going to use the factory brake ducts in the bumper and remove the Evo duct "tubes". I hav ethe Evo 3 undertray/engine splash tray. I can't see how to routh the hose through the inside of the engine splash tray to the backing plates w/o pinching it when the wheels are at full lock to the inside. Meaning, the front inside of the tires would pinch the tubing where it would come out of the undertray, near the tie-rod and control arm. Anyone have pictures of a working install? Thanks.

    RedShark Racing http://www.brannfors.com
    1988 M6
    1990 M3
    1991 M5

  • #2
    I installed their optional middle adaptor on the fender liner so I can disconnect the hose from the backing plate to the liner when I'm not using it. In other words, I didn't see a way to route the hose with the tire hitting it at full lock.
    Chris
    90 Corrado/91 M3/01 M5

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    • #3
      You are familiar with the the two threaded studs on the inside of the forward frame rails?
      the drivers side stub serves as a grounding point for the block via the oil pan.

      To each stud, I attached a 1" wide by 3" long piece of aluminum with a hole in each. They point down from the rails.
      Thru each hole I passed a tie wrap to secure the hoses to keep them away from the tires at full lock.
      You can do a trial fit to gauge where you need to drill holes in the verical portions of each side of the bottom shield for the ductwork to pass thru.
      I used 39-40" of flexible duct per side. I have no rubbing issues.
      m.

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      • #4
        She needs bake cooling?

        Are you going to take it to the track?

        What you do is drop the undertray, and route the hose almost 90deg from the control arm. Then just drill a 3in hole in the undertray and mount it up. Keep some slack in there and make the hole so big enough so the hose can move back and forth. This way you will not have any problems with hitting the hose when you turn the wheel.

        My brakes were getting to cooled with that kit, I stopped using the hose to the backing plate. Only at Spokane when it's over 100 did I need the hoses.

        Do not click
        At least it's German

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        • #5
          Originally posted by EVOIIIM3
          Only at Spokane when it's over 100 did I need the hoses.
          Wow ! There is a place called Spokane ? I thought it was a fictitious place, as it was always in Wacky Races . What an education this place is to me. Anyway, back to the serious stuff of brakes ....
          This space is a sanctimonious shit free zone.

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          • #6
            Here's a pic of my routing if it helps at all, I have no issues with rubbing... Not sure how this differs from the E3 routing though.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the picture. Yes, that's exactly where my minds eye has the hose routed, but at full lock the tire would still pinch the hose. Have you had this problem?

              Yes, Mike, she tracks it. And I'd rather have the brakes cooled to start with rather than wish I had installed something after an incident.

              RedShark Racing http://www.brannfors.com
              1988 M6
              1990 M3
              1991 M5

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes, Mike, she tracks it. And I'd rather have the brakes cooled to start with rather than wish I had installed something after an incident
                It is amazing how "mediocre" the stock brakes are on this car, given that it is a performance car.

                I have never tracked mine, but just last weekend I was enjoying myself on a winding canyon road near my house, driving no where near "the limit". I got that familiar "hot brakes" smell and the brakes faded to about 40% of usual effectiveness. I was surprised they don't have more capacity than that.

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                • #9
                  When I don't need the full cooling of this kit, I just slap some gaffers tape over the ducts.

                  Sometimes when the brakes are too cool you can run into stopping problems on the street.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ironhead
                    It is amazing how "mediocre" the stock brakes are on this car, given that it is a performance car.

                    I have never tracked mine, but just last weekend I was enjoying myself on a winding canyon road near my house, driving no where near "the limit". I got that familiar "hot brakes" smell and the brakes faded to about 40% of usual effectiveness. I was surprised they don't have more capacity than that.
                    What pads did you have on the car?

                    T

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                    • #11
                      You can just see the edge of the subframe in the pic. If the duct was longer and practically touching the subframe ,ie, lower and further back at that end , you'd have no issues except to sleeve the duct work with tape where it is closest to the subframe edge..
                      m.

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                      • #12
                        What pads did you have on the car?
                        Mintex......

                        I know there are street/track pads available with much more heat capacity than those, I just figured for my uses they would be adequate.

                        Obviously I was wrong.....

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mmark
                          You can just see the edge of the subframe in the pic. If the duct was longer and practically touching the subframe ,ie, lower and further back at that end , you'd have no issues except to sleeve the duct work with tape where it is closest to the subframe edge..
                          m.
                          I would have done that but it wasn't possible using the stock under tray to support the hose. I cut the hole as far back as possible, if it were any further back there would not have been enough material left to retain the hose. I guess I could have fabricated a bracket to hold the hose but it's current location hasn't caused any problems.

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                          • #14
                            Is this package really worth the price? What I see on the web page, all it is is a adapter instead of the original backing plate, some hoses and clamps and the air intake for the front. I don't see were my money is going. I need extra cooling for my brakes too but not to this price. You can easily create this "package" yourself or have some handy guy do it for you for peanuts and the buy the intakes somewehere else.

                            I didn't mean to sound cranky but I myself thought about buying this package until I saw the price and just wanted to tell people that you could probably make this yourself.

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                            • #15
                              If you want good/efficient brake cooling you need the backing plates. Although they're not that complicated I think your best off just buying them rather than trying to fabricate your own.

                              What I did to save a few bucks;
                              - Backing plates from RoadRaceTech -- $195 (discounted when they first opened, they're now $249)
                              - Inlets and 6' of duct from StockCarProducts -- $63
                              - HomeDepot hose clamps ~$5
                              - I opted not to use the couplers
                              My total cost at the time was $263 but even with the current price of the backing plates this route would still only be $317.

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