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cracks below fuse box

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  • #31
    I have a French magazine called "Revue Technique" (dated june 1984) which contains body/chassis alignement information about the E30-model. It's full of pictures and text (unfortanely in French).

    Like this one:

    I also found a picture in this magazine that states that there should be 1100 mm between the most outer holes (for fixation) of the strut. I'll see if I can scan this picture and some more to show you all.



    • #33
      I will get some dimensions today and post them.:cool:
      88M3 henna

      97 540\6-Gone
      2008 MINI Clubman S


      • #34
        Just dragging this thread up.......

        I have a crack behind the fusebox, no way near as bad as the one in the pictures but it needs to be fixed, the guy who found the problem is a very experienced ex-BMW mechanic, he thinks the car has had some sort of accident and a few things tie up to agree with this.
        I'm going to see a bodyshop guy who knows M3's well tomorrow, he should be OK fixing it but warned me that the fusebox has very limited slack and can be a problem (read: expense as its time consuming) the fusebox on my car is damaged anyway (should have spotted this when I bought the car) If I can get one from a scrap car is it possible to replace the whole item?

        Secondly, these alignment measurements, where can I get this stuff checked out? The car drives well (according to the BMW guy) so don't know if its a problem or not.
        Does fitting a strut brace help prevent the cracking problem once its been repaired?



        '90 M3
        '58 Austin Healey Sprite
        '02 Suzuki SV650S


        • #35
          Neo2, plus everybody else, i seem to remember a few years back a major discussion on here or Roadfly about the measurment across the srtut towers, i think it came up due to some members not being able to fit Sparco strut brace. Anyway I think it turned out that at some point there was 2 different measurments 1 was 20mm shorter than the others, . I even seem to remember that somebody did some reasearch in to wether there was 2 different types of shell.


          • #36
            I did some research into this but i think the general concensus on here was that all the cars right from day one to the last car were all the same, and different cars that suffered the collapsing of the front towers to different levels got different results some were more/worse than others.

            Now my only arguement against that was this, most cars only suffer this on the fuse box side, so for an instance if the tower moved 20mm inward towards the other one, reducing the width so to speak, it would not be square, mine had the same problem so i got technicle and did some measuring from corner to corner and stuff like that mine had moved about 10mm, or should i say 10mm less than the fiqure quoted on the jigging data. the funny thing was though that down to the last milimeter everything was square, so both sides would have had to move the same 5mm each.

            Not being convinced my brother works for a dealership spoke to Germany somewhere and they could not confirm that all body shells had exactly the same width between the strut towers.

            So what does that tell you.


            • #37
              Found it, check 2nd reply.



              • #38
                Well that clears that up then LOL.

                '90 M3
                '58 Austin Healey Sprite
                '02 Suzuki SV650S


                • #39
                  Originally posted by MarcM3
                  oops . . .

                  Marc, how are thiongs looking one year later? Did you get the crack welded?
                  How is the other side (underneath the coolant expansion tankl) looking? No cracks or buckles?
                  Did you get your car straightened/on a jig before starting the repair?

                  Thanks for any info as I need to do the same some time soon.


                  • #40
                    Neo2 (Rob) informed about this a few months back (via pm) and this was my answer:

                    I left the towers as they were. I was told that bending them in the original place can't be easily done. And another guy (maintaining E30 M3's) told me that if there should be a big issue with the position of the towers I would have been told so when getting the car aligned.

                    About repairing the crack. Someone welded a piece of metalsheet under the crack and then welded the cracked material back together. All welding has been done without completely removing the fusebox. Off course I did have to loosen the fusebox so it could be moved aside a little.

                    Unfortunately I didnīt take any pictures during the repair. I could make some of how it looks now but I doubt that they will be helpfull.

                    I replaced the coolant reservoir a few weeks ago and didn't notice any cracks there.

                    Good luck with the repair on your car.



                    • #41
                      thanks for the info.
                      I will be looking into replacing that whole piece of sheet metal (inner wheel well) but that might be over reacting a bit. It's on an M3 (not the one in my sig) that has already seen track time and that's what it will see in the future also, so perhaps I should just weld it up with a piece of sheet metal underneath it, like you did.
                      Last edited by hardtailer; 02-12-2006, 08:37 AM.


                      • #42
                        Like everybody said already it is very coomon and the reason is that the water running of the windshield on that side has nowhere to go. There is a drain tube underneath the fuse box which over the years clogs up. Keep it open and you will be rust free. Pictures to follow soon on repairs.I like this place so much I became involved. Yes the S14 fever got me.

                        edited:--------------------spam erased----------------

                        Use the sales forum for your promotions.


                        • #43
                          yup, this one got me too. noticed it because i'm getting water on my carpet

                          i plan on fixing it by sandblasting the area, hammering the metal back into position the best i can, then welding in reinforcements/gussets. a full treatment of POR should then prevent further corrosion.

                          as a data point, a sparco bar doesn't fit my car. i also looked at a friends SpecE30 (89 325is) and his has the same problem and as far as we know has never been in a collsion...mine has. further, two friends have early m3's and the metal under the fusebox is completely flat. my 12/87 build has the "angled" shelf. this makes sense with the 9/87 change date on metal parts in the ETK. why they changed it, i don't know, but it seems weaker.